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are lockers difficult to install?

10K views 28 replies 16 participants last post by  jcook 
#1 ·
i find that 90% of the time i get stuck it is because opposite front and back tires are spinning, because my stock jeep has little flex.

because i am poor and need my 4banger to perform on the highway, i figure locking an axle would help dramaticly.

i am assuming that locking the front axle is a good idea, because i heard somewhere that yj's have a stronger front axle.

I have two main questions:

1. how hard is it to install? i have swapped an engine and a tranny with identical stock replacements, among other things in past cars, (timing chan, valve seals, pumps...) do you think i can do it? im not a *******. lol

2. if i go with the cheeper NOISY lockers that make a racket while turning, would they make any noise in the front axle with 4wheel drive disengaged? or what are down sides to using a cheap locker in the front?

i drive on the highway to work daily. and i have a reasonably good selection of tools.

-Thank you for your time,
Dew
 
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#2 ·
Just search the whole site for "front locker" or "d30* locker" or "dana locker" and you will find all you need.
 
#3 ·
I just put a lock right locker in my jeep. It was not all that hard and so far it does not make too much noise but I have only put about 30 miles on it so far. Can't wait to test it out.
 
#4 ·
A friend and I just finished installing my ARB in the front. It wasn't that bad. The hardest part of the whole installation was making the air line fit exactly with out rubbing the ring gear and diff cover. (The air line is copper...the more you bend it, the harder it gets.) Just make sure you have a Torque Wrench to tighten the ring gear and bearing caps to their listed torque.

I believe the downside of putting a cheap locker in the front is at times its tough to make hard turns on the trail. With the ARB you can just turn it off with a push of a switch. Not to mention, it is a strong unit.
 
#5 ·
i did some research and found that even with 4 wheel drive off ezlockers can make noise in the front. but it just doesn't make sense if my front axle is disengaged. doesn't that mean that the pass. side hub doesn't connect with the diff.

or am i wrong.
 
#11 ·
oops i mean inexpensive, from what i read i guess lockright and ezlocker are stronger then powertrax no slip and some other "silent" lockers. would a lockright give my 4 cyl any trouble on the highway?

oh
BamaJeep are you serious? i don't have a welder. can someone confirm?
 
#12 ·
Dont listen to Bama. He is correct for a rear axle, but NEVER weld or spool a front axle. Actually, the No Slip is a little "stronger" than the others, but if you want strength and still have an easy install, then check out the Aussie Lockers. They do not have a tire size limit as most budget lockers do. If you want real strenght, get a detroit softlocker.

I'm locked in the front with a QuickLok. I can hear it ratcheting when cornering, but it is hardly noticable and completely normal. It is basically the same as the others. The EZ locker is known as one of the loudest, the no slip one of the quietest.
 
#14 ·
Yeah, Bama's right. I'm getting my front axle done in the next month or so. A YJ's fron axle disconnects, unlike a TJ's. That means when a YJ is in 2WD the front axle doesn't really do anything. Once it's put in 4WD it connects and begins to pull. :rtft:

Most shops will do it for less than $40. I'm going to drive it into their shop, remove the diff cover, drain the gear oil, show the dude where to weld, wait for it to cool down, put the cover back on, fill it up with fluid, and drive it out.

If you ever wanted to get rid of it, New spider gears would run you about $50.

For a good discussion on welded spiders go here:
http://jeephorizons.com/phpbb/viewtopic.php?t=860
 
#15 ·
im going to need my 4 wheel in the snow so i dont think welding it is a good idea.

what about a "cable locker" that someone told me about
 
#16 ·
Wow! I'm surprised that any shop would weld gears together. I worked for years in the automotive field and around race tracks (dirt). The poor boys welded their gears, smart guys ran posi or lockers. The problem with welds are they are prone to cracking, and when they let loose then you have extra metal floating around in your diff that can cause a lot of damage. I would personally NEVER weld any gears, aside from causing damage it could also potentially cause your gears to lock when they break, not much fun at 55 mph on the blacktop. Now I'll admit I've been out of the scene for about five years, but I doubt there is any new technology for welding gears. For $300 I'll go with a cheap locker any day.
 
#17 ·
lukydog said:
Wow! I'm surprised that any shop would weld gears together. I worked for years in the automotive field and around race tracks (dirt). The poor boys welded their gears, smart guys ran posi or lockers. The problem with welds are they are prone to cracking, and when they let loose then you have extra metal floating around in your diff that can cause a lot of damage. I would personally NEVER weld any gears, aside from causing damage it could also potentially cause your gears to lock when they break, not much fun at 55 mph on the blacktop. Now I'll admit I've been out of the scene for about five years, but I doubt there is any new technology for welding gears. For $300 I'll go with a cheap locker any day.
Well obviously you don't really know what you are talking about. I know a lot of guys who have done this with no problem whatsoever. From 4x4's to drag racers, it's pretty common. A welded front diff SIMULATES a front locker (IE lock right). I never said it was a locker. My guy at the welding shop does awsome work and I would trust his welds with my life. Even if the weld breaks, take it out of 4WD and the axle discos and there isn't a problem. Maybe if you used a real welder and not JB weld you wouldn't have to worry about it.

Not all of us have $300 to throw around. I figure for that much money I can buy a rear locker and have my front diff welded AND buy extra spiders (for replacement later. That means I' m locked at both ends and can go places you've never dreamed.
 
#18 ·
lukydog said:
Wow! I'm surprised that any shop would weld gears together. I worked for years in the automotive field and around race tracks (dirt). The poor boys welded their gears, smart guys ran posi or lockers. The problem with welds are they are prone to cracking, and when they let loose then you have extra metal floating around in your diff that can cause a lot of damage. I would personally NEVER weld any gears, aside from causing damage it could also potentially cause your gears to lock when they break, not much fun at 55 mph on the blacktop. Now I'll admit I've been out of the scene for about five years, but I doubt there is any new technology for welding gears. For $300 I'll go with a cheap locker any day.
I can't comment on running welded diff in the front, as I have never run my jeep like that. However, if your welds are cracking on a welded diff you need to learn to weld better. Welded diffs can hold up to alot if welded properly. A good friend of mine runs 42s with a welded rear and has never had a problem. Granted he has dana 60s but we are talking about weld strength so I think it applys. As you can se he wheels hard and has never had a problem

 

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#19 ·
I will chime in as I have done several lincoln lockers.. They are awesome .. Work Just as good as any other locker and they only cost about .15 (price of one welding rod..) I carry spare spiders just in case but have had no problem..

QUadafi.. I assume you have manual locking hubs... That is a must if you are welding the front...

Dont sweat the comments front the peanut gallery Lincoln lockers are even commone on rock crawlers.. (Non sponsored that is..)
IF you have any doubts buy a spare set of spiders and carry them..

Good luck...
 
#20 ·
Swamp Boy said:
I will chime in as I have done several lincoln lockers.. They are awesome .. Work Just as good as any other locker and they only cost about .15 (price of one welding rod..) I carry spare spiders just in case but have had no problem..

QUadafi.. I assume you have manual locking hubs... That is a must if you are welding the front...

Dont sweat the comments front the peanut gallery Lincoln lockers are even commone on rock crawlers.. (Non sponsored that is..)
IF you have any doubts buy a spare set of spiders and carry them..

Good luck...
Thanks Carl, I plan on getting locking hubs in preparation for the welded diff. I'm also looking for some spare spiders, so if anyone has some, give e'm up.
 
#22 ·
I'm curious about the Dana 30 welding - so one just welds the spider gears so they get all fused together in one big block of metal that is strong enough to last under torque over time? Sounds awesome!!

And when in 2WD, the axleshaft (now one long axleshaft) is disconnected and not a peep from the front?

Besides the obvious problem of breaking the weld and having to disconnect 4WD in tight turns, what other drawbacks are there?

And why are manual locking hubs a must for welded axles?

FYI, here's a detailed DYI weld: http://www.derbypro.com/tut9.html
 
#23 ·
Sorry, I WAS talking about welding rear spiders. Say all you want, welds DO eventually crack. May be fine for off road use, but you're risking your life and the lives of other motorists if you plan on driving on the blacktop. Why do you think manufacturers don't offer welded diffs? Why do you think your receiver hitch is bolted to the frame and not welded? If it does crack and lock the rear end, and you cause an accident, your insurance company will for sure investigate the cause of the lockup, and you are liable. I know it's a "what if", but it has happened!
 
#24 ·
Prosset.. you answered your own question .. You need manual locking hubs so you can free wheel with the welded spiders.. Other wise you are turning them all the time.. "like one big long axle.."

Lucky dog... What??????? Why dont manufacturers offer welded spiders????

DUH... because TRACKLOCK /GOVLOCK / Whatever is way more exoensive.. :D :D :D

I dont know who welds your stuff but I have welds on my rig that have been there for a long time...
(IE UNITBODY IS WELDED TOGETHER)
It takes a very good weld to handle stress.. And not everyone can do a good weld... I personally have welded spiders in a FSJ and installed them and this thing is wheeled HARD .. They have been in there under the torque of a heavily moddified 360 with 400 Turbo and blah blah.. For over 2 years and its a daily driver...

And I also doubt that the welds breaking would lock you up at freeway speeds.. (Although also agree it is not impossible..)
The only welded spiders I have seen fail where in a 35 and all that happened was the weld broke ... He was able to drive home 75 miles with his damaged spiders.. ( I believe he rewelded them because he is a lunitic... :D :D )

I am not trying to argue.. Just imparting some personal experience..

Carl
 
#25 ·
Swamp Boy said:
Prosset.. you answered your own question .. You need manual locking hubs so you can free wheel with the welded spiders.. Other wise you are turning them all the time.. "like one big long axle.."
Carl, I think that the D30 on YJ's (not on TJ's) have an axle disconnect when not in use, so shouldn't that mean that when the TC is in 2WD the front axle free wheels anyway? And then when the TC is in 4WD then both of the tires would turn like one axle?

Just checking.....
 
#26 ·
Well almost... YOu see if the spiders are welded you would actualy be in 3wd all the time... since that one axle woud be spinning with the spiders all the time..

So that is why tou need manual locking hubs... Although with a YJ as you have said.. You could get away with Just one hub. on the drivers side... :D
That might be cool.. Then you would have spare hub.. :thumbsup:
 
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