Lock plate issues - JeepForum.com

 
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post #1 of 11 Old 01-02-2015, 05:02 PM Thread Starter
sebestas21
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Lock plate issues

A few months back the ignition on my 87 wrangler jammed up and had to be replaced. Between the tear down and reorder of the new part I had to move the Jeep and popped the steering wheel back on to move it a short distance without the lock plate or anything else in place. Since then I haven't been able to get the lock plate to compress to the point where the ring can be put back into place. Always stops just a cm shy. Seems that the shaft has a little bit of play to it now too. What I've been told is the thrust washer and cap came out and I can't get them seated back in by the bearings. Anyone know of a possible fix? Tried loading it up with grease and forcing those back in with no luck.. Willing to try anything at this point.

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post #2 of 11 Old 01-03-2015, 06:13 AM
Mike Romain
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Lots of times the bearing pops out at the bottom of the column under the hood below the brake master. Especially if you used a hammer removing the wheel.
That said, sometimes you just have to have someone push up on the column under the hood to get the clearance back.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG AT's, 'glass nose to tail in '00, 'New' frame,wires and plumbing in '09. Carter BBD Carbed 4.0 HO in '10.
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post #3 of 11 Old 01-04-2015, 05:37 PM Thread Starter
sebestas21
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I do see where you're talking about, there was a small gap. I had someone apply pressure there while I compressed the plate again with no luck. It just seems to reach a stopping point when compressing even though it can go down more. I've dug in to the four screws that you can reach when the pivot pins are taken out of the column. Would taking those out and getting farther in be of any benefit to getting that clearance back?
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post #4 of 11 Old 01-12-2015, 07:56 AM Thread Starter
sebestas21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Romain View Post
Lots of times the bearing pops out at the bottom of the column under the hood below the brake master. Especially if you used a hammer removing the wheel.
That said, sometimes you just have to have someone push up on the column under the hood to get the clearance back.
Hey mike,
Still tryin to figure this thing out. I think it may be those lower bearings out of place, but holding the column up didn't gain back that space. As far as approaching this, would digging in farther from the inside be better? Or do I need to drop the steering box so the shaft comes out?

Thanks for your response!
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post #5 of 11 Old 01-12-2015, 09:02 AM
jbolty
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Tilt column or fixed?

Are you using a lock plate compressor tool? If not, get one.

I would guess the bearing in the upper part of the column right under the wheel is out of place if it's not seating.

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post #6 of 11 Old 01-12-2015, 07:18 PM
rubisean
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jbolty is exactly right, the upper race and castle are not seated... pull the shaft forward then seat the race and castle, the slop will now be gone. install the spring and lock plate
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post #7 of 11 Old 01-13-2015, 06:14 AM
Mike Romain
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sebestas21 View Post

Hey mike,
Still tryin to figure this thing out. I think it may be those lower bearings out of place, but holding the column up didn't gain back that space. As far as approaching this, would digging in farther from the inside be better? Or do I need to drop the steering box so the shaft comes out?

Thanks for your response!
A photo of the lower column would show if that bearing is out of place or if it is the upper. If the lower is out, the column will be real sloppy.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG AT's, 'glass nose to tail in '00, 'New' frame,wires and plumbing in '09. Carter BBD Carbed 4.0 HO in '10.
89 YJ Renegade. BBD Carbed 4.0 HO. Locked front and rear with 33x9.5 BFG AT's
Some Canadian Bush Jeep Runs and Build Photos: http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com (10 new albums added Sept 16/10)
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post #8 of 11 Old 01-13-2015, 09:38 AM Thread Starter
sebestas21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbolty View Post
Tilt column or fixed?

Are you using a lock plate compressor tool? If not, get one.

I would guess the bearing in the upper part of the column right under the wheel is out of place if it's not seating.
It's a tilt column, and I'm using a compressor tool. I think it is the upper bearing being out of place as well, just not sure how to re-seat it. I can either get the ring into place that pushes on the bearings and have the cap sit there with the spring pushing on it or else I can get the cap and ring together but not seated against the bearings which gives more play.
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post #9 of 11 Old 01-13-2015, 09:49 AM
jbolty
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There is plenty of play in the upper shaft on a tilt column to have this happen with no movement at the lower bearing. It's pretty common for the bearings to come loose and fall out, they are just sitting there.

take a look here

http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...ck_Rebuild.pdf

The part you want starts on about page 55

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post #10 of 11 Old 01-13-2015, 10:02 AM Thread Starter
sebestas21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbolty View Post
There is plenty of play in the upper shaft on a tilt column to have this happen with no movement at the lower bearing. It's pretty common for the bearings to come loose and fall out, they are just sitting there.

take a look here

http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...ck_Rebuild.pdf

The part you want starts on about page 55
I think I've tried having them together before compressing but the cap tends to always pop out when that ring gets forced into place. I'll give it another go today though, that makes sense as it would buy back that centimeter I need.
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post #11 of 11 Old 01-13-2015, 08:46 PM
rubisean
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Pull the shaft forward,once pulled forward you can seat the race and castle. When I say pull forward if you have to place the wheel on with the nut so you are able to pull the shaft. Once it is up pit the race into place
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