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Unread 12-30-2011, 07:56 PM   #16
Jeffro06
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Pro Comp, really? They don't come that highly recommended.

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My Old YJ Build My Mods My YouTube Channel

Moab Trails I've done: Onion Creek, Long Canyon, Dome Plateau, Top of The World (2), Fins-N-Things (2), Poison Spider,
Golden Spike, Gold Bar Rim, Hell's Revenge (2), Baby Lion Back, Cliff Hanger, Moab Rim, Kane Creek Canyon, Strike Ravine

Shortcuts to key points in my build: MTRk's OME 2" HD Lift Antirock Skidrow steering box & radiator skids LoD rear bumper
Rokmen Mercenary bumper w/Superwinch Rokmen sliders Skidrow engine skid Rampage Top CB set up
Custom trunk Rokmen 1" Billet spacers JJ track bar Rokmen Adjustable Control Arms Currectlync Steering
Rokmen Trail Corners Metalcloak Overlines Kentrol Hood Latches JK Turn Signals Xenon 4" Flat Flares Hood Decal Duratracs
Derale Tranny Cooler DieHard Factor 55 Thimble Ten Factory Front Chromo Shafts

Get your build sheet here.
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Unread 12-30-2011, 07:57 PM   #17
Jeffro06
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I'd do the OME before I did the ProComp lift.
__________________
Member of JGW (Jeff's Gone Wheeling) and IndyORV
My Old YJ Build My Mods My YouTube Channel

Moab Trails I've done: Onion Creek, Long Canyon, Dome Plateau, Top of The World (2), Fins-N-Things (2), Poison Spider,
Golden Spike, Gold Bar Rim, Hell's Revenge (2), Baby Lion Back, Cliff Hanger, Moab Rim, Kane Creek Canyon, Strike Ravine

Shortcuts to key points in my build: MTRk's OME 2" HD Lift Antirock Skidrow steering box & radiator skids LoD rear bumper
Rokmen Mercenary bumper w/Superwinch Rokmen sliders Skidrow engine skid Rampage Top CB set up
Custom trunk Rokmen 1" Billet spacers JJ track bar Rokmen Adjustable Control Arms Currectlync Steering
Rokmen Trail Corners Metalcloak Overlines Kentrol Hood Latches JK Turn Signals Xenon 4" Flat Flares Hood Decal Duratracs
Derale Tranny Cooler DieHard Factor 55 Thimble Ten Factory Front Chromo Shafts

Get your build sheet here.
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Unread 12-30-2011, 09:00 PM   #18
tydp
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For sure...

the OME over the Pro Crap!
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Unread 12-30-2011, 09:26 PM   #19
dillonjm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dakota123 View Post
ok so my dad and i decided to get a 2 inch lift instead of 4 inch lift.
this is what we are planning on putting on it as of now. My dad went over to 4 wheel parts and basically asked their opinion. (hopefully the links work) :

http://www.4wheelparts.com/Lift-Kits-Suspensions-and-Shocks/Leaf-Spring-by-Pro-Comp.aspx?t_c=1&t_s=399&t_pt=4113&t_pl=1831&t_pn=E XP51313

http://www.4wheelparts.com/Lift-Kits-Suspensions-and-Shocks/U-Bolt-Kit.aspx?t_c=1&t_s=399&t_pt=5504&t_pl=1887&t_pn=EX P50070

http://www.4wheelparts.com/Lift-Kits-Suspensions-and-Shocks/Leaf-Spring-by-Pro-Comp.aspx?t_c=1&t_s=399&t_pt=4113&t_pl=1831&t_pn=E XP51323

http://www.4wheelparts.com/Lift-Kits-Suspensions-and-Shocks/ES3000-Series-Suspension-Shock-by-Pro-Comp.aspx?t_c=1&t_s=90&t_pt=3306&t_pl=1819&t_pn=EX P326510

http://www.4wheelparts.com/Lift-Kits-Suspensions-and-Shocks/ES3000-Series-Suspension-Shock-by-Pro-Comp.aspx?t_c=1&t_s=90&t_pt=3306&t_pl=1819&t_pn=EX P322500

http://www.4wheelparts.com/Bumpers-Tire-Carriers-and-Winch-Mounts/SRC-Classic-Rock-Crawler-Front-Bumper-with-D-rings-by-Smittybilt.aspx?t_c=64&t_s=26&t_pt=6410&t_pl=10108 4&t_pn=S%2fB76740D

http://www.4wheelparts.com/Bumpers-Tire-Carriers-and-Winch-Mounts/Classic-Rock-Crawler-Rear-Tire-Carrier-Bumper-with-D-rings-by-Smittybilt.aspx?t_c=64&t_s=26&t_pt=3486&t_pl=10104 5&t_pn=S%2fB76651D

http://www.4wheelparts.com/Wheels/Series-52-Rock-Crawler-Black-Steel-Wheel-by-Pro-Comp.aspx?t_c=11&t_s=209&t_pt=100021&t_pl=101829&t _pn=PCW52-5865F

http://www.4wheelparts.com/Tires/31x10-50R-15LT-Grabber-Tire-by-General-Tire.aspx?t_c=13&t_s=486&t_pt=101129&t_pl=102364&t _pn=GEN04568150000


will this be good enough for some offroading but mostly a daily driver because i am taking it back to PA to go to school so i gotta drive it over

also there was a yj install kit and rear axle shock that i couldn't find on the site.
Opt for the OME springs for a 2" lift over Pro Comp for sure. The guy at 4wheel parts is trying to sell you something from their catalog and is an idiot if he thinks Pro comp is on the same level as OME/BDS/or RE
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Unread 12-31-2011, 09:34 AM   #20
wendell
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Get a good quality kit, you will be fine. There are a lot of good kits out there, trail master, black diamond, super lift and so on. A newbie shouldn't be trying to piece together a kit and you don't have to, with a grand you can buy an awesome kit. I've had my trail master kit for 4 years and it still performs like the day it was installed.
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Unread 12-31-2011, 10:55 AM   #21
jhumphrey
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wendell
Get a good quality kit, you will be fine. There are a lot of good kits out there, trail master, black diamond, super lift and so on. A newbie shouldn't be trying to piece together a kit and you don't have to, with a grand you can buy an awesome kit. I've had my trail master kit for 4 years and it still performs like the day it was installed.
He may be a newbie, but with our help (isn't that what we're here for?), why does he need to spend a grand on a kit he can make for $300-400 less? It's great he has the funds for it, but he could take the money he saves and buy something else (winch? New bumper? Fire extinguisher ) with it?

OP: piece the OME kit you posted together, it's cheaper to do that and you'll save the extra cash. If you have questions, as you can tell, we're here to give you options and you pick what's right for your needs.
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Unread 01-01-2012, 12:28 PM   #22
wendell
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Because a kit has everything in it you need, it takes the guess work out of it, thats the purpose of a kit. Also the manufacture will stand behind thier product and will give you assistance if needed. I don't have anything against him saving money, I do have a problem with people saying lift kits aren't any good, so piece together one. Yeah, lets all piece together a junkyard special instead of using a new kit, thats just loaded with logic. No offense to those with knoledge that know what there looking for or what there doing. Just seems like a good kit would be the way to go with a first time jeeper.
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Unread 01-01-2012, 10:29 PM   #23
jhumphrey
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wendell
Because a kit has everything in it you need, it takes the guess work out of it, thats the purpose of a kit. Also the manufacture will stand behind thier product and will give you assistance if needed. I don't have anything against him saving money, I do have a problem with people saying lift kits aren't any good, so piece together one. Yeah, lets all piece together a junkyard special instead of using a new kit, thats just loaded with logic. No offense to those with knoledge that know what there looking for or what there doing. Just seems like a good kit would be the way to go with a first time jeeper.
I'm not saying that kits are bad, but they often include things that aren't needed or are overpriced. For instance, look at the OME setup:

2.5" kit from 4wd cost $1,069.00. This kit includes front/rear springs, shocks, ubolts, and driveshaft spacers.

Now, you can buy the OME springs for $400. Ok. Now, you can get ubolts for ~$40. Then, you have your choice of shocks. Let's say, for argument, you went with a nice offroad adjustable shock (such as the Rancho 9000s). That's about $320. I doubt you'll need a tcase drop, but if you did, they are made all day by every 4wd fab place out there...$25. So, you spent $785. You saved yourself $284 and used all quality, new parts (no "junkyard specials" here). In fact, the shocks used in my piecemeal are better because the are adjustable (the included kit OME shock isn't). If you didn't want to pay the premium for an adjustable shock, you could cut that number in half (say you chose Monroe's instead). The only thing not addressed is bushings for the springs. For all four, if you paid top retail for OME brand, you'd spend around $100. Once again, you can find these made of quality for less, I'm just sticking with OME for argument.

So, all said and done, you've saved $200-300 (not included if you went with a "cheaper" shock) and got a better selection of items. As far as getting assistance, all the manufactures will stand by their product, piecemeal or not. The OP is by no means alone and trying to figure this out on his own. All he has to do is come here and hit the post button with his question, we're all more than willing to help (with the how-to, parts list, install, budget saving, and so on). He doesnt need to over pay for the same setup, thats just illogical.
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Unread 01-01-2012, 11:10 PM   #24
94yjstocklook
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So if you are set on a 2 inch lift this is what i would do.

1) go to this site and look at what is included http://www.4wd.com/Jeep-Lift-Kits-Je..._pn=KIT493200N (this kit includes everything necessary to lift 2 inches. I know because I installed this kit on my jeep)

2) This kit is 4wd hardware but from what i understand (somebody correct me if im wrong) it is manufactured by bds. I have had it on for 3.5 years now. after the break in no noticeable sag and rides softer than stock. flexes great too.

3) if you want an even better ride go with old man emu. use the 4wd kit however as a guide since even the old man emu kit will not include certain items many times. (i.e. brake line extensions or relocation tabs)

4) before you do get a lift kit determine your gearing. I had the 4.0 with 3.07's. I had 30 inch tires before which measured out to 28. My new 31's measured out to 30.5. The power difference absolutely sucked. Yes it will be ok to drive without a regear but I personally got sick of it after 2 years. I regeared to 4.10's and absolutely love it now. (after i say that i prepare for being flamed since i regeared a dana 35 aka the turdy 5) To determine gearing as easy as possible, jack up the back end, spin the tire one full rotation and count the amount of times the rear driveshaft spins (the ratio of driveshaft spins to tire spins will be your gear ratio)

5) leads me to my next point. The dana 35 is known for bent housings, or snapped shafts, or grenaded anything in the axle. Going bigger than 33's is probably not the best idea without upgrading axle shafts and a truss (adding material to the housing to strengthen it). Putting a locker in it is also probably not the best idea with any size tire. Either way this is debatable and prepare for some to tell you dont, and others to say they drove theirs with lockers, 35's, a v8, and heavy on the gas without a problem. I'm just warning you going bigger than 31's will really increase the stress on the rear axle and it may take awhile but it will definitely cause a significant increase in ware on the axle

6) other issues to worry about:
-Transfer case will need to be lowered even with a 2 inch lift unless you do a slip yoke eliminator and obviously a changed driveshaft
- I also had to use the 4 degree shims which came in my 4wd hardware kit to eliminate the driveline vibrations. (now I feel nothing)

7) Reasons why i chose 2 inch lift
- I too was going into college and not a lot of money. The 2 inch lift does not increase the ware on the jeep too much and means for a very reliable daily driver. I have driven mine 20,000 miles since the lift kit was put on and no issues.
- Some day i want to go bigger.. much bigger. I plan on doing a spring over axle lift. the 2 inch leafs i have now will work out perfect when i get to that point. 4 inch springs with a spring over would net 9 which is wayyyy too high. Some will argue the 2 inch springs with spring over are even too high and stick with stock. However in a few more years the springs will have settled even more and should make for a nice ride height if/when i do go spring over axle
- The 2 inch lift is much cheaper. for 630 I got everything I needed. If you go 4 inch the kit will be more expensive (if you compare the same brands, I realize rough country is cheaper). Also there is the added cost of a slip yoke eliminator and driveshaft, as well as the need for a dropped pitman arm to correct for steering geometry.

8) Reason not to go rough country:

This is all based off of what i have heard and could happen with any brand really. To me, once i got the lift done however I wanted it to be done until i wanted to do more. Many have issues with rough country springs sagging. This means even if it is covered you still have to get back under the jeep and take out the springs. Plus this means down time. If the jeep is your daily driver that is no good. Also, at college it can be tough to work on your car even if you have a house and dont live in the dorms.

Finally here is my build thread in case you were wondering. http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/s...build-1139144/

sorry for the long post but hopefully there is some information that helps. If i was in your position I would read posts for a couple months before I decided what to do, or just do what i said
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Unread 01-01-2012, 11:15 PM   #25
MaddBones702
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I like the rancho 2.5 with the 9000 adjustable shocks. Nice ride and 13 years later still cant complain.
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Unread 01-01-2012, 11:46 PM   #26
dakota123
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i think my problem is im gettin it done at 4wheelparts. My dad went in and said he wants a lift on it. its mostly going to be a daily driver but occasionally going to be taken off road... they said this is what you should get and thats what was posted up at my last post... they said they charge 4000 for the parts and install that bumpers wheels alignment all that.... personally i think thats a little steep...but my dad feels its not bad for all of that... now i talked to him about getting the OME kit and he said its a possibility but that its $400 dollars more.... im wondering if i can piece something together and just have them install it or find another place to install it... im just scared im going to miss something and its going to end up being a hassle and my dads gunna be heated haha
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Unread 01-01-2012, 11:50 PM   #27
dakota123
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Location: manhattan beach, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 94yjstocklook View Post
So if you are set on a 2 inch lift this is what i would do.

1) go to this site and look at what is included http://www.4wd.com/Jeep-Lift-Kits-Je..._pn=KIT493200N (this kit includes everything necessary to lift 2 inches. I know because I installed this kit on my jeep)

2) This kit is 4wd hardware but from what i understand (somebody correct me if im wrong) it is manufactured by bds. I have had it on for 3.5 years now. after the break in no noticeable sag and rides softer than stock. flexes great too.

3) if you want an even better ride go with old man emu. use the 4wd kit however as a guide since even the old man emu kit will not include certain items many times. (i.e. brake line extensions or relocation tabs)

4) before you do get a lift kit determine your gearing. I had the 4.0 with 3.07's. I had 30 inch tires before which measured out to 28. My new 31's measured out to 30.5. The power difference absolutely sucked. Yes it will be ok to drive without a regear but I personally got sick of it after 2 years. I regeared to 4.10's and absolutely love it now. (after i say that i prepare for being flamed since i regeared a dana 35 aka the turdy 5) To determine gearing as easy as possible, jack up the back end, spin the tire one full rotation and count the amount of times the rear driveshaft spins (the ratio of driveshaft spins to tire spins will be your gear ratio)

5) leads me to my next point. The dana 35 is known for bent housings, or snapped shafts, or grenaded anything in the axle. Going bigger than 33's is probably not the best idea without upgrading axle shafts and a truss (adding material to the housing to strengthen it). Putting a locker in it is also probably not the best idea with any size tire. Either way this is debatable and prepare for some to tell you dont, and others to say they drove theirs with lockers, 35's, a v8, and heavy on the gas without a problem. I'm just warning you going bigger than 31's will really increase the stress on the rear axle and it may take awhile but it will definitely cause a significant increase in ware on the axle

6) other issues to worry about:
-Transfer case will need to be lowered even with a 2 inch lift unless you do a slip yoke eliminator and obviously a changed driveshaft
- I also had to use the 4 degree shims which came in my 4wd hardware kit to eliminate the driveline vibrations. (now I feel nothing)

7) Reasons why i chose 2 inch lift
- I too was going into college and not a lot of money. The 2 inch lift does not increase the ware on the jeep too much and means for a very reliable daily driver. I have driven mine 20,000 miles since the lift kit was put on and no issues.
- Some day i want to go bigger.. much bigger. I plan on doing a spring over axle lift. the 2 inch leafs i have now will work out perfect when i get to that point. 4 inch springs with a spring over would net 9 which is wayyyy too high. Some will argue the 2 inch springs with spring over are even too high and stick with stock. However in a few more years the springs will have settled even more and should make for a nice ride height if/when i do go spring over axle
- The 2 inch lift is much cheaper. for 630 I got everything I needed. If you go 4 inch the kit will be more expensive (if you compare the same brands, I realize rough country is cheaper). Also there is the added cost of a slip yoke eliminator and driveshaft, as well as the need for a dropped pitman arm to correct for steering geometry.

8) Reason not to go rough country:

This is all based off of what i have heard and could happen with any brand really. To me, once i got the lift done however I wanted it to be done until i wanted to do more. Many have issues with rough country springs sagging. This means even if it is covered you still have to get back under the jeep and take out the springs. Plus this means down time. If the jeep is your daily driver that is no good. Also, at college it can be tough to work on your car even if you have a house and dont live in the dorms.

Finally here is my build thread in case you were wondering. http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/s...build-1139144/

sorry for the long post but hopefully there is some information that helps. If i was in your position I would read posts for a couple months before I decided what to do, or just do what i said
thank you for that info i will look into that too... and as of the reasons for going with the 2 inch is right on... i dont want to have to mess with all the relocating... and about the SYE and drive shaft how much do those run... I dont want to have to change the rear axle either that seems expensive...
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Unread 01-02-2012, 12:08 AM   #28
dakota123
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2004 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: manhattan beach, CA
Posts: 484
Quote:
Originally Posted by 94yjstocklook View Post
So if you are set on a 2 inch lift this is what i would do.

1) go to this site and look at what is included http://www.4wd.com/Jeep-Lift-Kits-Je..._pn=KIT493200N (this kit includes everything necessary to lift 2 inches. I know because I installed this kit on my jeep)

2) This kit is 4wd hardware but from what i understand (somebody correct me if im wrong) it is manufactured by bds. I have had it on for 3.5 years now. after the break in no noticeable sag and rides softer than stock. flexes great too.

3) if you want an even better ride go with old man emu. use the 4wd kit however as a guide since even the old man emu kit will not include certain items many times. (i.e. brake line extensions or relocation tabs)

4) before you do get a lift kit determine your gearing. I had the 4.0 with 3.07's. I had 30 inch tires before which measured out to 28. My new 31's measured out to 30.5. The power difference absolutely sucked. Yes it will be ok to drive without a regear but I personally got sick of it after 2 years. I regeared to 4.10's and absolutely love it now. (after i say that i prepare for being flamed since i regeared a dana 35 aka the turdy 5) To determine gearing as easy as possible, jack up the back end, spin the tire one full rotation and count the amount of times the rear driveshaft spins (the ratio of driveshaft spins to tire spins will be your gear ratio)

5) leads me to my next point. The dana 35 is known for bent housings, or snapped shafts, or grenaded anything in the axle. Going bigger than 33's is probably not the best idea without upgrading axle shafts and a truss (adding material to the housing to strengthen it). Putting a locker in it is also probably not the best idea with any size tire. Either way this is debatable and prepare for some to tell you dont, and others to say they drove theirs with lockers, 35's, a v8, and heavy on the gas without a problem. I'm just warning you going bigger than 31's will really increase the stress on the rear axle and it may take awhile but it will definitely cause a significant increase in ware on the axle

6) other issues to worry about:
-Transfer case will need to be lowered even with a 2 inch lift unless you do a slip yoke eliminator and obviously a changed driveshaft
- I also had to use the 4 degree shims which came in my 4wd hardware kit to eliminate the driveline vibrations. (now I feel nothing)

7) Reasons why i chose 2 inch lift
- I too was going into college and not a lot of money. The 2 inch lift does not increase the ware on the jeep too much and means for a very reliable daily driver. I have driven mine 20,000 miles since the lift kit was put on and no issues.
- Some day i want to go bigger.. much bigger. I plan on doing a spring over axle lift. the 2 inch leafs i have now will work out perfect when i get to that point. 4 inch springs with a spring over would net 9 which is wayyyy too high. Some will argue the 2 inch springs with spring over are even too high and stick with stock. However in a few more years the springs will have settled even more and should make for a nice ride height if/when i do go spring over axle
- The 2 inch lift is much cheaper. for 630 I got everything I needed. If you go 4 inch the kit will be more expensive (if you compare the same brands, I realize rough country is cheaper). Also there is the added cost of a slip yoke eliminator and driveshaft, as well as the need for a dropped pitman arm to correct for steering geometry.

8) Reason not to go rough country:

This is all based off of what i have heard and could happen with any brand really. To me, once i got the lift done however I wanted it to be done until i wanted to do more. Many have issues with rough country springs sagging. This means even if it is covered you still have to get back under the jeep and take out the springs. Plus this means down time. If the jeep is your daily driver that is no good. Also, at college it can be tough to work on your car even if you have a house and dont live in the dorms.

Finally here is my build thread in case you were wondering. http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/s...build-1139144/

sorry for the long post but hopefully there is some information that helps. If i was in your position I would read posts for a couple months before I decided what to do, or just do what i said
just read through your thread. and i must say you did an awesome job on your jeep that is pretty much what i am going for with mine. i might have some questions a little later once i get going on mine. again thanks for the info!
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Unread 01-02-2012, 08:41 AM   #29
jhumphrey
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1998 XJ Cherokee 
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Middle, TN
Posts: 1,200
Quote:
Originally Posted by dakota123

thank you for that info i will look into that too... and as of the reasons for going with the 2 inch is right on... i dont want to have to mess with all the relocating... and about the SYE and drive shaft how much do those run... I dont want to have to change the rear axle either that seems expensive...
I hope that you misquoted the price from 4wheelparts...$4000?? No way would I pay that. And obviously your dad has deeper pockets than me if he thinks that's reasonable.

Now, as far as needing a sye and a new driveshaft, for a 2-2.5" you're not going to need those for that small of a lift. If you were going 3.5"+, then it would be something you'd have to consider. If you decide you want to do it, sye's cost a couple hundred bucks and a custom driveshaft is between $350-600.

The only thing that's 50%/50% is having to have a transfer case drop. Some people have to have them and others don't. The only way to know is to drive it after the lift. If you get vibes, you need it. As far as the physical install, it's very straight forward and you pretty much can't mess it up. I'd find another mechanic to install the lift if I didn't want to do it myself. There's no way in hell I'd spend 4k for a SUA 2.5" lift.
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Unread 01-02-2012, 11:22 AM   #30
94yjstocklook
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1994 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: OR
Posts: 293
Quote:
Originally Posted by dakota123 View Post
just read through your thread. and i must say you did an awesome job on your jeep that is pretty much what i am going for with mine. i might have some questions a little later once i get going on mine. again thanks for the info!
No problem. And at 4,000 i would definitely do it myself. I think after shipping and everything I only paid 650 for my lift. Then another 600 for the tires at the time but mine were wore out anyways. Regear was most expensive at 800 even though I did that myself (with help from my pops)

Anyways the lift is very simple to install it just takes some time. If your jeep isn't too rusted out (mine has no rust live in Oregon) with the right tools you will finish in a day. Took my dad and I about 8 hours. But my dad was only helping half the time. You will learn a lot and if you run into problems I guarantee someone on here will be able to answer them.
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