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Unread 09-13-2011, 03:11 PM   #1
wranglergirlyj
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Lifting my yj?

Just got my yj, I had a cherokee and I'm new to the jeep world I wanna lift my jeep four inches, any suggestions on the cheapest way to lift my yj?

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Unread 09-13-2011, 03:15 PM   #2
TheNewbie
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To answer your question, the cheapest 4" lift for a YJ is the Rough Country kit. It's cheap for a reason though. It rides rough and sags fast. Ask me how I know.

RC has a great warranty but you WILL have to use it.

My suggestion would be to spend a little bit more and piece together a set of 2.5" Old Man Emu springs and run them with some 5/8" shackles and a 1" BL if you want to be at 4". I went with the 4" RC kit and after a couple years I'm switching over to the setup described above.

BDS also makes some 3.5" springs that you would be very happy with. But if you just want to lift it on a budget and not worry about quality then RC is by far the way to go.

You can also think about other ways to fit bigger tires. Lifting is not your only option. You can do flat fenders or install TJ flares and trim the sheet metal to fit larger tires without as much lift. I went with TJ falres in the rear and flat fenders up front. The TJ falres are good for an inch or 2 and the flat fenders are probably goof for at least 3" of clearance.


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Unread 09-13-2011, 03:23 PM   #3
wranglergirlyj
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Thanks for the advice, I went to a local shop to get information and none of the guys took me seriously with my jeep lifting questions I will definitely look into the options you suggested, it's my first project vehicle so I'm excited to learn!!
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Unread 09-13-2011, 04:09 PM   #4
cstone94
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You could get a SOA kit. With stock springs, it should put you at about 4 inches or so, Cheap too, just requires welding.
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Unread 09-13-2011, 04:17 PM   #5
dtn8tr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cstone94 View Post
You could get a SOA kit. With stock springs, it should put you at about 4 inches or so, Cheap too, just requires welding.
Stock springs with SOA should net 5" of lift over stock. There are a number of other things to be done if doing SOA properly. If you're looking for a good riding lift in the 4" range that flexes well, then go with the options presented for the OME or BDS lifts. You will not be disappointed with either.
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Unread 09-13-2011, 04:28 PM   #6
Collin89Sahara
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Theres more than that goes into a SOA. A moderate SOA set up CORRECTLY will run at least 1,500. And OP, when doing 4in of lift you need to think about regearing, extended brake lines, SYE/DC, tires, lockers, axle swap, and labor....... If you have never been wheeling, I would suggest that you build your foundation, by starting with lockers and skid plates. As your ability increases your jeep should grow with you. If I didn't have to save for college, I would be putting lockers in it right now. IMHO a jeep that is tall and looks cool, but can't go anywhere because it doesn't have lockers is a waste of money....
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Unread 09-13-2011, 04:36 PM   #7
cstone94
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With 4 inches, I doubt you'd need axle swap, or regearing, or SYE/DC. I have 6 1/2 but my axle has shims to point the Pinion to the TC. Rides perfectly fine. I also have 35's and 4.11's but its also behind a 2.5L with 32's or 33's, around stock gearing with a 4.0 would be great, but a 2.5, it might give a bit of a trouble but not completely necessary to regear.
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Unread 09-13-2011, 05:09 PM   #8
JFranko
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cstone94 View Post
With 4 inches, I doubt you'd need axle swap, or regearing, or SYE/DC. I have 6 1/2 but my axle has shims to point the Pinion to the TC. Rides perfectly fine.
Just because you haven't had any problems with it doesn't mean it's done right. With a conventional two joint drive-shaft, the two yokes should be parallel to each other.


OP, You're looking for a Rough Country lift. Relatively cheap, and you shouldn't have any driveline issues with a t-case drop, and some shims. I'm pretty sure the kit comes with everything except for the shims, which would only run around $30.
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Unread 09-13-2011, 06:24 PM   #9
cstone94
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Originally Posted by JFranko View Post
Just because you haven't had any problems with it doesn't mean it's done right. With a conventional two joint drive-shaft, the two yokes should be parallel to each other.
Well its lasted 100k miles. So I'd hope its done right.
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Unread 09-13-2011, 07:12 PM   #10
JFranko
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Originally Posted by cstone94 View Post
Well its lasted 100k miles. So I'd hope its done right.
I seriously doubt the U-joint lasted 100k miles with it setup the way your describing. You should read up on this stuff a little bit before you go telling people how to set up their Jeeps.
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Unread 09-13-2011, 08:15 PM   #11
cstone94
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JFranko View Post
I seriously doubt the U-joint lasted 100k miles with it setup the way your describing. You should read up on this stuff a little bit before you go telling people how to set up their Jeeps.
Alright boss, I've seen tons of CJ and YJ's do it, aswell as many trucks. So, maybe everyone's doing it wrong? Beats me.
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Unread 09-13-2011, 09:16 PM   #12
imstillatwork
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Originally Posted by cstone94 View Post
Alright boss, I've seen tons of CJ and YJ's do it, aswell as many trucks. So, maybe everyone's doing it wrong? Beats me.
and TONS of them go through ujoints annually.
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Unread 09-14-2011, 02:43 AM   #13
Joe Dillard
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There's a bunch of misinformation and completely bogus info here that I'd suggest not listening to some of the posters here unless you wanna build a piece of junk.

It should be obvious who's way off base - if not PM me.
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Unread 09-14-2011, 04:14 AM   #14
JFranko
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Originally Posted by cstone94 View Post
Alright boss, I've seen tons of CJ and YJ's do it, aswell as many trucks. So, maybe everyone's doing it wrong? Beats me.
I guess so. I feel like a real ******* for putting in a fixed yoke, and a cv driveshaft.

OP, refer to my previous post on the RC lift. from what you described, it seems like it's what you are looking for. If you plan on going higher, then plan on spending a good chunk of change correcting driveline issues.
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