Lets talk about grease - Page 4 - JeepForum.com

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post #46 of 99 Old 03-05-2013, 10:57 PM Thread Starter
Anticanman
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There are some tricks to loading a gun and purging it of the air inside. I don't know the exact manufacturer protocol for it. I have my way of doing it and I will take pics tomorrow and share. The t handle is for compressing the spring and used to purge the air from the top.


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post #47 of 99 Old 03-06-2013, 08:12 AM
jeepster93
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I counted 9 grease points on my cv drive shaft. Most are needle points and 3 are zerks. The manufacturer of my drive shaft(not a TW) said there is no such thing as too much grease.


There are 3 right here.
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post #48 of 99 Old 05-16-2013, 11:18 AM Thread Starter
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Rainy day bump. Maintain the integrity and reliability of your jeep. Get your grease on!!!

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post #49 of 99 Old 06-11-2013, 10:08 PM Thread Starter
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Spent a couple bucks for a second grease gun specifically for greasing the needle zerks.



Its a good time to get out and grease your jeep.

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post #50 of 99 Old 06-12-2013, 09:14 AM
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Great thread! People look at me like I'm nuts buying cases of grease. Lol.

I also like to use zerk caps on all my external zerks. I get them at Napa. They stay on really well too. I have only ever lost a few off-road.

Go grease!

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post #51 of 99 Old 06-12-2013, 12:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepster93 View Post
I counted 9 grease points on my cv drive shaft. Most are needle points and 3 are zerks. The manufacturer of my drive shaft(not a TW) said there is no such thing as too much grease.


There are 3 right here.
You know you could convert the ones on the u joints to regular zerks.

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post #52 of 99 Old 06-12-2013, 01:03 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TSEJEEPERS View Post
You know you could convert the ones on the u joints to regular zerks.
I actually considered swapping the last regular zerk (swapped joints and it came with the needle zerk) just for ease of greasing whilst I'm on my back. With the new gun its a one handed operation as opposed to the two hands I need to operate the hose and the pump. It would be one, two, three. Done.

Just a thought.
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post #53 of 99 Old 08-30-2013, 03:17 PM
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My place is getting hammered with rain that has halted the tre replacement on the Comanche and has turned our roads into mud. New parts coupled with a lot of water, I started thinking about grease.

I have two tubes of the STP stuff and 5 tubes of the lubematic stuff. Are these okay to use or should I ditch them for new/different stuff? They are just what I found in the garage.
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post #54 of 99 Old 08-30-2013, 03:42 PM Thread Starter
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The main point of grease is to expel water and provide lubrication. Use it up and buy somethig different later if you want. Jus make sure that your grease is compatible with your bushings. 99% of the time, its fine.

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post #55 of 99 Old 08-30-2013, 03:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Anticanman
The main point of grease is to expel water and provide lubrication. Use it up and buy somethig different later if you want. Jus make sure that your grease is compatible with your bushings. 99% of the time, its fine.
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post #56 of 99 Old 08-31-2013, 10:00 AM Thread Starter
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And also, regular maintenance with cheap grease is still head and shoulders above annual maintenance with expensive grease.

And try to send some of that rain this way, hmm? We have a nasty fire eating up the outskirts of Yosemite.

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post #57 of 99 Old 08-31-2013, 10:07 AM
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I would if I could. Im sure it was enough rain in a 20 minute period to help those firefighters pretty decently.

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post #58 of 99 Old 11-12-2013, 06:05 PM Thread Starter
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It's been a couple months. Get out there and grease your jeep.


I had a hard time with my cv joint.


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post #59 of 99 Old 11-13-2013, 07:24 AM
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still trying to figure out how the heck I'm supposed to get at the ones in my (stock replacement) rear driveshaft?????? got the regular fittings but the u-joint yokes prevent getting the nose fo the gun in there

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post #60 of 99 Old 11-13-2013, 07:28 AM Thread Starter
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As the shaft turns, they become more accessible on the crosses. Or you can go with a sealed joint or one with the zerk on the cap. You can always take the straps loose on the rear axle if you're in a bit of a bind.

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