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Unread 12-04-2012, 09:26 PM   #31
pete1991YJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kuntryboy816 View Post
Maybe we should also compile a comprehensive list of what items need to be greased as well as how often they need attention. For me:

A. Front/rear drive shaft joints
B. Front/rear axle joints
C. Ball joints

I usually only hit mine every other month because I'm 95% on surface roads. I do step it up during the winter months (3-4 weeks between greasings) b/c the road salt gets everywhere and I find myself power washing the undercarriage a bit more frequently. My off roading has consisted of a few muddy puddles and some dirt roads. She gets a thorough cleaning and greasing after every "trip" though. Is there anything else I should be greasing.... on the Jeep that is?
Good idea... I remember at work they had a big drawing of a caterpillar on the wall, and a red dot where each grease fitting was. Maybe should make something like that for the Jeep.

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Unread 12-04-2012, 09:27 PM   #32
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I though I covered all the zerks with my initial post. I will see about going with the red dot method.
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Unread 12-04-2012, 09:39 PM   #33
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Went back and re-read it.... You sure 'nuff did!
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Unread 12-05-2012, 08:43 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kuntryboy816 View Post
Is there anything else I should be greasing.... on the Jeep that is?
You can add steering linkage to the list.
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Unread 12-05-2012, 03:34 PM   #35
pete1991YJ
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grease feels good.
/thread
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Unread 12-05-2012, 07:40 PM   #36
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wow, the man behind the driveshafts.

i use the mini gun to grease up the ol yj. works great for me


if you use a hose and are having trouble with it staying on, put it on and hold it while pulling the handle just a little by bending your arm. the grease will make the hose end stay on the zerk. its one of those feely things though and you might have to do it a few times to get the hang of it. once you got it though, you can use the hose for every thing you have to grease as it will lock onto the fitting. then you kind of have to wiggle it to get it off though.
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Unread 12-06-2012, 07:26 AM   #37
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I was on submarines and part of our job was to grease components under the superstructure. A specific component had a ujoint with a shaft on either end. The ujoint was protected by a removable boot that also had a zerk fitting on it. We would remove the boot clean off the old grease repack, install the boot and then fill the boot untill was firm with the zerk fitting. This ujoint would be submerged for the next 3 months in salt water at whatever depth and pressure the sub was at. When we returned the grease would still have quite a bit of its tanacity and clingyness. It was not easy to remove even after all that time submerged. We used a high temperature high pressure marine grease called MLP-591 this grease when you pulled your hands apart would have strings running between it. I forget who makes it but you can buy this stuff
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Unread 12-08-2012, 09:15 AM   #38
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Chassis Lubrication Guide showing fitting locations on Jeep Wrangler 94-95. I assume the earlier YJ fitting locations are similar.
image-378369492.jpg   image-543313867.jpg  
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Unread 12-08-2012, 06:04 PM   #39
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If you greased your driveshaft before a trail run everyone will know by the smell from the grease that gets on the muffler right next to it.
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Unread 02-08-2013, 11:46 AM   #40
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Rainy day bump
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Unread 02-08-2013, 01:08 PM   #41
pete1991YJ
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Anti - there' sthis grease tool I've been looking for. Some of the mechs at the old shop used to buy them from snap-on. Basically if you had a "stiff" fitting. You packet this thing with grease, put it on the fitting, and smacked it with a BFH. This forced the grease into the joint.

My balljoints are like that...
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Unread 02-08-2013, 01:26 PM   #42
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Does it look like this but with a steel cap on the end?

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Unread 03-05-2013, 04:49 PM   #43
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Straight from Tom Woods' site

Quote:
We are often asked about the frequency or type of grease to use when servicing a drive shaft. The answer has always been; "we believe a frequent and thorough greasing is more important than the type of grease you use". This is primarily because, one of the main results of a proper is a "flushing out" of any contaminates. It seems that a little grease and dirt make an excellent grinding compound. While greasing, if you pump in grease until you see clean grease come out past ALL the seals, you will insure that most of the contaminants will be washed away.

We've taken a look at the lubrication recommendations from some Spicer universal joints (greasable and non-greasable) on my shelf and they read as follows:


"Spicer Re-Lube Light/Medium Duty..."
"Lithium base greases meeting NLGI Grade 1 or Grade 2 are preferred..."
"Spicer Pre-Lube Light/Medium Duty..."
"Do not add lubrication Do not mix bearing caps on journals..."
"Miss-matching of cups on cross will result in improper quantities of lubrication in cups causing premature joint failure..."
"Addition of lubricant may damage bearing cup seals leading to premature joint failure..."
The NGLI is the National Grease Lubricating Institute (it's probably a pretty boring place). It is the umbrella organization that sets the standards for the properties of different greases, oils and other lubricants. Again, although we are not authorities on the subject, we do know that the grade will typically refer to the viscosity of the lubrication, with a grade 1 being less viscous than a grade 2. The lithium is the base to which the lubrication is added. In this case, lithium is basically a soap base. There are other bases to which the lubrication can be added, Molybdenum Disulfide for example, which is typically referred to as; a "moly" grease.

Beyond that there are a few general parameters that we would suggest in selecting the grease. Temperature rating should be at least 300 degrees. This may sound awfully high but it wouldn't be uncommon for the drive shaft to reach an operating temperature of near 250 degrees and it's important that the lubrication doesn't separate from the base and boil off.

There is also a load rating to consider. Theoretically at least, if you can prevent metal to metal contact, you will prevent wear. Greases and oils will have what is known as a "Timken Load Rating". We are not qualified to explain all the technical information of a Timken Load Rating, it is basically the rating of the lubricant to withstand certain amounts of pressure before smearing so thin as to allow surface to surface contact. The Timken Load Rating should be sufficient for the intended use. Most grease will probably be adequate with the exception of thin motor assembly grease.

The viscosity should be in the range that will allow for a good flow past all the wearing components while servicing. Again, this is for the "flushing out" of the contaminates while servicing. Very high viscosity in the grease may actually be detrimental as higher viscosity grease tends to create more heat than would a more freely flowing grease. Remember to that ultimately, heat is one of the real enemies here.

If you run in a lot of water or mud, it may also be good to use a grease that has water resistant characteristics.
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Unread 03-05-2013, 07:28 PM   #44
pete1991YJ
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Quote:
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Does it look like this but with a steel cap on the end?
Very similar, they were designed to be smacked with a hammer to force the grease in. They were made out of solid steel tho, and a bit smaller than that about 1/2 that size.
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Unread 03-05-2013, 09:48 PM   #45
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This is probably dumb, but what is the t handle on the bottom of the gun for and also the little nub of a lever? I've managed to get grease to come out of mine like it should, but I feel like I didnt fill it right. That thinking is mostly reinforced by the tremendous mess I make the couple times I've filled it.

How about some basic instructions on loading/preparing for use?
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