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Unread 11-30-2012, 07:12 PM   #1
Anticanman
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Lets talk about grease

I don't want to make another detailed writeup but more of a generalized guide and leave it open for discussion.

Grease is one of those items that may get overlooked on our maintainence lists if we aren't changing the oil or replacing drivelines. There are some other important reasons to grease other than just basic lubrication. The first is the reason I felt compelled to bring this up: water. Tis the season we go splashing around in mud holes and traversing flooded streets with über-confidence in our jeeps and it could be the thing that's the most detrimental.

We always have a flash of an image of a snorkel when we think of water crossing and some of us who have the experience know that our distributor cap is also at risk. Vents are up high for the transmission, transfer case and both axles but what about the rest of the vital components? Remember that pressure washing the mud off the jeep will put water in places it normally wouldn't get there on its own. Expelling water from rust friendly parts should be very high on the list of monthly (if not biweekly for DD) chores for keeping the jeep healthy.

The last reason to grease is to give us a good chance to have some intimate time under the jeep poking and prodding around. Inspection on a very frequent basis should be paramount to anyone who wants to have a functional vehicle. Any damage you can avoid is a big point in the W column. All the grease zerks on the jeep are connecting the most vital (and expensive) parts that make the jeep go.

On the basic Yj, there are a few zerks to attend to. There are the ball joints thigh connect the knuckles to the front axle and all the steering components (4) two on the drag link and two on the tie rod connecting these aforementioned knuckles. All of these are easily accessible with the tires and wheels on and the jeep on the ground. You may have to turn the wheels one direction and then the other to access them but easy nonetheless. Then comes the driveshafts. The front driveshaft should have two ujoints which are both usually greasable on the crux of the joint kind of hiding in the corner. If your cad is still working then you can turn the shaft by hand and access the front easily and the rear if you have stretchy arms. There is a third on the slip joint that may squirt a bit out and tell you if your seal is no bueno. The rear shaft is pretty much the same without the slip joint being greasable as it is lubed by the transfer case.

If your transfer case has a SYE then you have a cv joint installed on your new shaft. There are four greasable points on this type of shaft. Three ujoints (two are usually greased ok the caps and one on the crux) and the ball type cv joint that maintains pressure on the two joints so the angle can be evenly split and you avoid vibrations. Many of you may have better luck than I do but the cv joint is not accessible in the installed position and must be taken loose from the transfer case to be greased. Do not shortchange this joint!!! Mine went out within 6,000 miles despite being greased several times.

When it comes to types of grease the possibilities are numerous but most lithium based automotive grease is perfectly fine for all your needs. I have used the red and white auto grease and the high pressure blue, green, yellow (cheapest) and the silver which is my favorite. Some grease is better than no grease.

As for hardware, I suggest a Lincoln grip type gun over any battery powered or pneumatic guns on the market. I grease a lot as a farmer and my forearms look like Popeye because of it (yeah right that's all) so stick to human powered guns. The others can be dangerous when accompanied with accessories. The standard gun will come as either a stick or hose adapter and I suggest the latter. The stick is great for a two handed gun but is hard to get into tight places unless you use the mini guns.

Most zerks are a standard size and are a ball type that all guns will adapt to out of the box. There is also a needle type zerk that is almost always found in the cv joint and sometimes on the endcaps of ujoints. You'll need an adapter. A good adapter. Once again I suggest Lincoln but don't skimp on an autozone special here. I broke three of them before I got the right one. Looks like this.



If you guys have questions or want to discuss further please do so. I will answer what I can and if I forgot something or have incorrect info please tell me. I'm sure there are other greasing threads but I'm just giving a little info inserted into a section that needs to know.

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Unread 11-30-2012, 07:20 PM   #2
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Very nice. I just put some grease in my new TRE on my drag link. I did run out though so I need to get some more. It's one of those mini grease guns. It also has the metal tube not the flexible one...which kind of sucks in hard to reach places.
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Unread 11-30-2012, 07:41 PM   #3
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Always greased before a run and it gives me time for as good frame and suspesion inspection. I love the time I take to apply grease. Great write-up and love the info way to go!!!
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Unread 11-30-2012, 08:10 PM   #4
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I mentioned I always used the full size guns but I suppose the smaller ones wouldn't be terrible to pack along for water crossings in the back of the jeep. I'm still not crazy about the stem as opposed to the hose.
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Unread 11-30-2012, 08:22 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Anticanman View Post
I mentioned I always used the full size guns but I suppose the smaller ones wouldn't be terrible to pack along for water crossings in the back of the jeep. I'm still not crazy about the stem as opposed to the hose.
The smaller guns do suck IMO. I bought it with my $20 Autozone reward because I didn't have one after I moved out of the house. I just kept using this one over the years.

I need to get some more of those small grease canisters and go over the chassis again.
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Unread 11-30-2012, 08:36 PM   #6
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I tend to like the stems at work. The hose is always soaked in grease.....I don't wanna get icky! We also have a two handed gun with a hose for some reason......need three hands to use it. Great write up.
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Unread 12-01-2012, 09:34 AM   #7
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I have have a bunch of grease guns.

One with the metal tube that works great to grease shackles or other easy to get to fittings and not need a third hand to stay on the fitting.
A normal one with a hose.
Another with a hose and a thread on needle tip. I never had much luck with the tip adapters staying on.
I also have a couple of small one handers

I have replaced most of my fittings that are in harms way with the flat type. They are a little harder to grease but they don't get knocked off as often.

Over the years I've used all type of grease but lately I got some a napa that's meant for backhoes and such. It's supposed to dry to a skin on the outside so not so much dirt sticks to it. Seems to work pretty well.

first pic I found on google
lube-20cv.jpg  
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Unread 12-01-2012, 08:25 PM   #8
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I always use the large 2-handed guns. One of them has the needle permanently screweed onto the pipe -- I can swap pipes if I need a different bend for a tough spot. The other gun has a 12" hose with a regular tip. Used to work in a heavy equip shop in a past life... a caterpillar has over 80 grease fittings which need to be serviced daily... Thankfully I was a welder and didn't have to do that job!

I usually load these with EP moly Marine grease. Been using these exclusively since the 1990's on all my vehicles.
.
grease.jpg  
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Last edited by pete1991YJ; 12-02-2012 at 12:38 AM.. Reason: correct facts
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Unread 12-01-2012, 08:30 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Louie4 View Post
I need to get some more of those small grease canisters and go over the chassis again.
Eventually you will realize that it is an addiction, like I did; Then you will buy the bulk refill 5-gallon pail and not bother with those wastful little cartridges anymore. Just keep a box of rubber gloves around for re-packing the guns!
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Unread 12-01-2012, 09:03 PM   #10
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I like the air powered grease guns, I always make a mess with the manual ones lol.
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Unread 12-02-2012, 07:15 AM   #11
Louie4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pete1991YJ View Post
Eventually you will realize that it is an addiction, like I did; Then you will buy the bulk refill 5-gallon pail and not bother with those wastful little cartridges anymore. Just keep a box of rubber gloves around for re-packing the guns!
I pulled out my little quart can of moly grease to refill my grease gun!

I have had the grease in a can for a while so I guess I should make use of it.
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Unread 12-02-2012, 08:43 AM   #12
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I've seen marine grade grease but stayed away from it as I am not sure if it would be detrimental to parts on my YJ. Anyone know what the difference is and if it would be better to use during more moisture prone times of the year such as winter and early spring? Seems like it would be made to repel water as its intended use is for marine applications.
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Unread 12-02-2012, 01:41 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbolty View Post
I have have a bunch of grease guns.


I also have a couple of small one handers

I have replaced most of my fittings that are in harms way with the flat type. They are a little harder to grease but they don't get knocked off as often.

Over the years I've used all type of grease but lately I got some a NAPA that's meant for backhoes and such. It's supposed to dry to a skin on the outside so not so much dirt sticks to it. Seems to work pretty well.

What is a one hand grease gun? Never noticed it.

Also, what NAPA grease dries to a outside skin to repel dirt? I own a couple of street sweepers that blow dust all over the place. I grease it to keep the dirt out of the bearing regularly. Repelling dirt sounds right for me.

I just use the regular cheapest NAPA grease, anyone think I should change to a different grease?
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Unread 12-02-2012, 03:01 PM   #14
pete1991YJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kuntryboy816 View Post
I've seen marine grade grease but stayed away from it as I am not sure if it would be detrimental to parts on my YJ. Anyone know what the difference is and if it would be better to use during more moisture prone times of the year such as winter and early spring? Seems like it would be made to repel water as its intended use is for marine applications.
The marine grease does repel water better. I tested it in the U-joints on my 1979 chevy 3/4-ton 4x4.

Regular grease and water would get mixed up into something like mayonaise or whipped cream. Getting whipped and spun around in the u-joint bearings and mixed with water. Eventually the regualr grease became milky and thin and gritty.

The marine grease held up better, longer. It wasn't absolutely waterproof but it lasted 2x better than the regular stuff. It also didn't turn into the milky stuff. It stayed thick and smooth even tho it wasn't as thick as new.

I tested it in the K20 for all of fall, winter, and spring of 1997, the truck was off-road at work about 1/2 the time in upstate NY. (my job was HD offroad maintenance)

Hey Louie, yer an engineer, are ya reading this??
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Unread 12-02-2012, 03:24 PM   #15
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I don’t get to internet forums much. I just happened to be here today because I received a private message from zte87. Being the Techno-tard that I am, I am having difficulty getting into the private message. If anyone here knows how to contact zte87, please have then contact me at my regular E-mail address of Tom@tomscds.com.

Anyway,,, this string caught my eye. I must say Anticanman did a great job! I would like to contribute a cople of things.

1. If you’ve been in the mud or water, the time to grease things is after you’re done four wheeling. This will flush out the contaminates. If you want to grease before four wheeling too, it certainly wont hurt. Grease is a lot cheaper than parts.

2. The grease injector tool shown will work on flush fittings, and the regular ball fitting. When using this tool on a regular ball end, simply use the tool to push down the center check ball. In our shop, we use the grease injector tool on all grease fittings.

If you want to see my thesis on the subject, please refer to this link;
http://www.4xshaft.com/Grease.html


Best Regards to all.

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