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Unread 08-08-2011, 03:57 AM   #46
Red91xj26
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where can i get the bearing from.. all i find for the ax15 is this noise

http://www.google.com/search?q=ax15+...w=1366&bih=665

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Unread 08-08-2011, 03:59 AM   #47
Red91xj26
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[QUOTE=Leans93;9199141]. I've also seen the bellhousing and fork and throwout bearing on ebay for $100 for all of it.

could you post a link to that.. i need it in a bad way
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Unread 08-08-2011, 08:13 AM   #48
goAF
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this is beautiful
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Unread 08-08-2011, 06:50 PM   #49
Leans93
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You can get it at any local autoparts store, napa, autozone etc. Just ask for a 94 throwout bearing. Same thing for online

Quote:
Originally Posted by Red91xj26 View Post

could you post a link to that.. i need it in a bad way
Ebay changes too often so a link to their site wont last long. Just go on ebay and type in "Jeep wrangler bellhousing" and you will find what you're looking for.

Quote:
Originally Posted by goAF View Post
this is beautiful
Thank you!
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M.F. Leans


93' YJ 4.0L AX-15, 4" Pro Comp lift, 3/4" shackles, 1" BL, 33x12.5x15 BGF MT's, and some other stuff


Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Jones
Catch me on the highway or about to tear the mall up.
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Unread 11-17-2011, 07:03 PM   #50
yellowoctupus
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Ah, so the question of the day, does anyone know if you can do this swap on a 1990- with the flywheel 'crankshaft' position sensor???? I just purchased a bellhousing, etc to do the swap from internal to external, and it hit me like a train that I might have no place for my sensor!!!
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Unread 11-17-2011, 08:51 PM   #51
Opihi59
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Best as I know, the CPS are the same, bolt up to the same place, etc. YOu should not have any issues. I did this on my 93, it was worth it.
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Unread 11-18-2011, 04:10 AM   #52
yellowoctupus
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Good to hear. I looked real close at a picture of the one I just bought (albeit, a blurry one...) and it looks like the harness pigtail is actually still attached, so hopefully I'm good to go. Thanks, Opihi59!
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Unread 12-04-2011, 08:48 PM   #53
yellowoctupus
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Thanks for the great write up, just got the swap done and am SUPER happy with the way I can drive my truck again. (90MJ). I used the AX5 slave / MC setup and made an adapter plate at my firewall to fit the larger flanged AX5 MC compared to the stock '90 MC.
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Unread 12-30-2011, 11:57 AM   #54
GRYDE001
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Any idea what I might need if only swapping out parts from my 94 ax5 to a used 91 ax5?
new seal, clutch kit, and maybe bearing? I should have everything else already on my old tranny, right?
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Unread 12-30-2011, 02:16 PM   #55
Leans93
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As long as you have ALL the parts from your 94' then you should be good to go!
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M.F. Leans


93' YJ 4.0L AX-15, 4" Pro Comp lift, 3/4" shackles, 1" BL, 33x12.5x15 BGF MT's, and some other stuff


Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Jones
Catch me on the highway or about to tear the mall up.
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Unread 01-19-2012, 07:55 PM   #56
tekan1
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i'm next in line

Quote:
Originally Posted by Leans93 View Post
So I recently completed swapping my internal slave cylinder set up to an external slave cylinder set
up. There was some great information about this swap on the forum but I had to go to a lot of
different threads to collect all the information I needed. I hope that this write up will consolidate all that
for the next guy who wants to do this swap! Lots of pics to give some visualization also.

Parts:

Internal bearing retainer



Bearing retainer removed



External bearing retainer



Both side by side with Internal bearing retainer left and External bearing retainer right



The new internals that sit on the new bearing retainer. Left is the clutch fork, center is the throw out

bearing/clutch release bearing, top right is the plastic ball and nut that connects it to the bellhousing

and just to the left of that is the clip that holds the fork to the ball. This ball is made out of a dense

plastic, the rest of the parts are metal.



More side by sides

Bellhousing: Internal left, External right



Throw out bearing/Clutch release bearing: Internal left, External right



Slave cylinder: Internal left, External right



Here is a picture of the bellhousing internals once it is all ready to be put back in




So i recommend disconnecting the battery since you will need to disconnect the starter and a few
other electrical components. First is to disconnect your clutch line and the electrical connections and
vacuum lines that connect to the transmission and transfer case. You will need to take off the
driveshafts front and rear. You will disconnect and remove the starter and CPS. Also remove the
shifter covers from the interior and the shifter levers themselves.

You then need to drop the transmission and transfer case. They can be removed seperately or
together as one unit. I removed them seperately as I was resealing my transfer case while I was
under there. I recommend draining them of their fluids first. I used a transmission jack under the
tranny and then removed the skid plate. Unbolt all of the bolts holding the transmission to the engine.
there are 2 large bolts on the bottom, 3 small bolts on the front of the dust plate, and 4 main bolts that
actually bolt to the engine, of these 4 bolts there are 2 medium bolts near the top of the bellhousing
and one large bolt on either side. I chose to disconnect these while on the jack because it can be
difficult to unbolt these top 2 bolts due to clearance issues. So I lowered the transmission a few
inches and had better access.

Now you should be able to slide the tranny back and lower it down and slide it out from under the
Jeep. Now the easy part, take off that accordian style POS internal slave and throw it far far away!
Next unbolt the bellhousing, then the bearing retainer. Make sure the transmission and new external
bearing retainer is cleaned of old silicone/gasket material. Throw a bead of RTV on there and bolt
down the new retainer. Put on the new bellhousing, attach the throw out bearing to the shift fork and
the shift fork to the ball via the clip. Everything should slide back and forth smoothly. You're now
ready to throw the tranny back in. Putting it back in is basically the opposite of taking it out. The new
slave cylnder i saved for last since it hangs off the side I didn't want to knock it off while reinstalling
the tranny.

Once everything is reconnected you need to connect the old master to the new slave. Your old slave
line will not work. There are several options, they sell fully prebled kits with master and slave. I'm not
100 percent sure what this entales but they were more expensive so i opted for an alternative route. I
know some places online sell the 94-95 clutch line for around $30 or so. The method I chose was
given to me by bigredcherokee in his thread
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/a...ite-up-592098/.
I will not go into much detail here as you can click on his link and get a great deal of info on this clutch line.
And thanks to bigredcherokee for that write up. I recommend calling AA and oredering the kit to ensure you
get the correct master cyinder fitting for a YJ. So connect your master to your slave and bleed the system
and you should be ready to go.

Some tips.
There are usually dowel rods on the engine that help line the transmission back up.

My clutch had been replaed recently with the motor swap so I did not change the clutch out. From
what I have found the disk and pressure plate between the two types of slave set ups are the same
so there is no need to change your clutch and pressure plate HOWEVER if your components are old
you might as well change them while the transmission is down and out of the Jeep.

The last tip goes for your pilot bearing/bushing also. This one I learned the hard way but thats
another story. Just make sure you change it out with the correct diameter pilot bushing for you
application.

If I think of anything else I will edit or add it.

Hope this helps some of you out!

As always comments and questions are welcome!


I plan on doing the same but changing out the trany for mine took a dump due to my large tires. Thank you for the details!
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Unread 01-19-2012, 08:02 PM   #57
tekan1
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1992 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: marion, virginia
Posts: 5
i'm next in line

Thanks for the great details. My tranny decided it wanted to retire without informing me in advance. That bastard! Anyhow I'm hoping to make the change soon.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Leans93 View Post
So I recently completed swapping my internal slave cylinder set up to an external slave cylinder set
up. There was some great information about this swap on the forum but I had to go to a lot of
different threads to collect all the information I needed. I hope that this write up will consolidate all that
for the next guy who wants to do this swap! Lots of pics to give some visualization also.

Parts:

Internal bearing retainer



Bearing retainer removed



External bearing retainer



Both side by side with Internal bearing retainer left and External bearing retainer right



The new internals that sit on the new bearing retainer. Left is the clutch fork, center is the throw out

bearing/clutch release bearing, top right is the plastic ball and nut that connects it to the bellhousing

and just to the left of that is the clip that holds the fork to the ball. This ball is made out of a dense

plastic, the rest of the parts are metal.



More side by sides

Bellhousing: Internal left, External right



Throw out bearing/Clutch release bearing: Internal left, External right



Slave cylinder: Internal left, External right



Here is a picture of the bellhousing internals once it is all ready to be put back in




So i recommend disconnecting the battery since you will need to disconnect the starter and a few
other electrical components. First is to disconnect your clutch line and the electrical connections and
vacuum lines that connect to the transmission and transfer case. You will need to take off the
driveshafts front and rear. You will disconnect and remove the starter and CPS. Also remove the
shifter covers from the interior and the shifter levers themselves.

You then need to drop the transmission and transfer case. They can be removed seperately or
together as one unit. I removed them seperately as I was resealing my transfer case while I was
under there. I recommend draining them of their fluids first. I used a transmission jack under the
tranny and then removed the skid plate. Unbolt all of the bolts holding the transmission to the engine.
there are 2 large bolts on the bottom, 3 small bolts on the front of the dust plate, and 4 main bolts that
actually bolt to the engine, of these 4 bolts there are 2 medium bolts near the top of the bellhousing
and one large bolt on either side. I chose to disconnect these while on the jack because it can be
difficult to unbolt these top 2 bolts due to clearance issues. So I lowered the transmission a few
inches and had better access.

Now you should be able to slide the tranny back and lower it down and slide it out from under the
Jeep. Now the easy part, take off that accordian style POS internal slave and throw it far far away!
Next unbolt the bellhousing, then the bearing retainer. Make sure the transmission and new external
bearing retainer is cleaned of old silicone/gasket material. Throw a bead of RTV on there and bolt
down the new retainer. Put on the new bellhousing, attach the throw out bearing to the shift fork and
the shift fork to the ball via the clip. Everything should slide back and forth smoothly. You're now
ready to throw the tranny back in. Putting it back in is basically the opposite of taking it out. The new
slave cylnder i saved for last since it hangs off the side I didn't want to knock it off while reinstalling
the tranny.

Once everything is reconnected you need to connect the old master to the new slave. Your old slave
line will not work. There are several options, they sell fully prebled kits with master and slave. I'm not
100 percent sure what this entales but they were more expensive so i opted for an alternative route. I
know some places online sell the 94-95 clutch line for around $30 or so. The method I chose was
given to me by bigredcherokee in his thread
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/a...ite-up-592098/.
I will not go into much detail here as you can click on his link and get a great deal of info on this clutch line.
And thanks to bigredcherokee for that write up. I recommend calling AA and oredering the kit to ensure you
get the correct master cyinder fitting for a YJ. So connect your master to your slave and bleed the system
and you should be ready to go.

Some tips.
There are usually dowel rods on the engine that help line the transmission back up.

My clutch had been replaed recently with the motor swap so I did not change the clutch out. From
what I have found the disk and pressure plate between the two types of slave set ups are the same
so there is no need to change your clutch and pressure plate HOWEVER if your components are old
you might as well change them while the transmission is down and out of the Jeep.

The last tip goes for your pilot bearing/bushing also. This one I learned the hard way but thats
another story. Just make sure you change it out with the correct diameter pilot bushing for you
application.

If I think of anything else I will edit or add it.

Hope this helps some of you out!

As always comments and questions are welcome!


I plan on doing the same but changing out the trany for mine took a dump due to my large tires. Thank you for the details!
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Unread 03-04-2012, 04:38 PM   #58
Redheep
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Wilton, CT
Posts: 7
For those doing this swap to also go from 2wd to 4wd on a renix you need the pilot bearing from a 70's cj with 304 motor.......just saying
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Unread 06-25-2012, 06:07 PM   #59
jokerchief462
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Location: Sin City, Nevada
Posts: 2,828
OK anyone have a picture of the Master Cylinder you are using for the conversion. I have an 89YJ 2.5 TBI AX05 NP231 TC. I have the tranny and transfer case out. SYE going in no problem. The bell housing will be here Thursday. But I got a Master Cylinder that is larger than mine and the mounting studs are on the master cylinder not the firewall. So just what part # Master Cylinder do you need? I bought from Autozone Part # 13369 picture attached. Like I said it is bigger around, the studs are on the cylinder not the firewall and it has an offset mounting patter that just won't fit between the Brake Vacuum Booster and other things mounted on the firewall. Please advise any help would be great. Thanks jokerchief462
clutch-master-cylinder.jpg  
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Unread 06-26-2012, 02:06 AM   #60
Leans93
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1993 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Mesa, AZ
Posts: 1,459
I've never performed this on a pre 91' but I would suggest using the master that fits your vehicle and getting the correct adapters from advanced.
__________________
M.F. Leans


93' YJ 4.0L AX-15, 4" Pro Comp lift, 3/4" shackles, 1" BL, 33x12.5x15 BGF MT's, and some other stuff


Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Jones
Catch me on the highway or about to tear the mall up.
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