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Old 01-14-2009, 05:17 PM   #1
mandng0
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1979 CJ5 
 
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Last Minute Questions Before The 350 Swap...

Hey guys, Im in need of some help. Ive now got the motor and tranny together and before I start tryin to get this 350 in, I need some last minute help from you Jeep pro's. Today when I went to order my AA Sadle Mount, it seemed like the sales guy from AA was tryin to upsell me on everything in stock and discourage me from going with the setup I have.

To get everyone up to speed, Ive got a 350ci/700R4/ 231c and 241c (have both to choose from) that Im putting in a 92YJ. As far as the headers, I plan on using long tube headers that Im thinking will fit in between the frame rails once the motor is set in place. As far as the Tcase, I dont want to or plan on buying any extra adapters and have no problem going with all new auto meter gauges as Ive already planned for.


By the way, Im no mechanic but have turned a few wrenches in my time. Lets just say, Ive got the beer tab from here on out for a while for the extra help Im getting with this project.

So reading through Jeepin1995's 350 thread and some of the others, I saw some things that I need help with and I figured now is the time to ask....

- Going with the AA sadle mount, what do i need to do as far as to fabricate a tranny mount? My mind has been racing with ideas but I need suggestions...

- As far as driveshafts go, what problems might I run into if I use this 231c? What needs to be done to where I can use my current ones? Any tips as far as to how I should measure the angles and such?

- How do I hook up the powersteering? From what I understand, all i need is a chevy and jeep hose. Can someone show or explain which one is which that I need and what exactly I have to do...

I thought I was going into this with the right frame of mind until I spoke to the sales guy from AA today. Any and all help is appreciated.

Thanks Guys

Marcus

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Old 01-14-2009, 05:31 PM   #2
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1. I don't recommend the saddle mount. I didn't use it, but others have tried and didn't like it. Just my observations. Hopefully some of those "others" will chime in. I used Novak weld in motor mounts. Strong and simple to put in.

2. If your just hot to trot on headers....go for it. However, I used OEM manifolds and they fit just fine between the rails. They were quiet, yet did the job nicely. No issues with fitment.

3. The 231c case will work just fine......assuming you have the correct tailhousing for the 700R4. The 231c is a 5holer, where most 700r4's are 6holers on the tcase mount. You'll want to look for a tailhousing from a 91 s-10 blazer....same place the 231c came from.

4. Yes, you will need one steering hose from the chevy, and one from the jeep. Not sure which is which...but when you go to put it together, it will only work one way and you will know. Easy stuff. I want to take a stab and say it's the high pressure side that is the chevy hose, because it mounts differently on the back of the chevy PS pump. The low pressure coming from the steering sector back to the resevoir is what the jeep hose will work for.

5. No problems using the 231c and driveshafts. You will just have to make sure that the driveshaft is no bigger that 2" diameter, and you will have to make sure your downpipe on the drivers side exhaust is tucked in tight to the engine. On my engine, it had an oil cooler built in, and dropped the oil filter down about 2 inches. I had to get an oil relocation setup to get the filter out of the way, even using the "short" filters from the older chevy engines I was crushing my oil filter before the relocation kit. You can use your current driveshafts, no biggie. They will have to be changed in lenght just a bit, but you can worry about that after everything else is in.


Hope that helps.
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Old 01-14-2009, 06:08 PM   #3
mandng0
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This sounds like Im in for a good start...

HAHA.. Im def not hot to trot...I just want this beast to run without the motor falling to the ground. The headers came with the motor so I figured I'd use those if they'd fit instead of spending the extra dough on hugger headers or what not.

about that 231C, its actually a 233c which is the electronic version of the 231C... I pulled it along with the 700R from the 92 blazer i bought as a donor, so they def mate up with no problem...

From what I was told, Ill be able to wire the control shift motor to work with a switch as I planned on mounting it on the dash.. this is why I got the 241 just in case it doesnt work out that way.... Worst case scenario i can remove the shift motor and convert it to a mechanical set up.

Back to the mounts....

8 out of 10 recommend the weld in mounts but I was lookin to go the easy route... I guess it wouldnt hurt gettin someone with above average welding experience to help out

Thanks for the help so far.. Im looking to order the mounts this weekend so this def helps out alot
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Old 01-14-2009, 06:11 PM   #4
mandng0
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Oh... What did you do for your cross-member? I need some help with what to do for a tranny mount....
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Old 01-14-2009, 07:17 PM   #5
Tomb Raider
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mandng0 View Post
Oh... What did you do for your cross-member? I need some help with what to do for a tranny mount....

Factory crossmember, use chevy mount, drill new holes in the crossmember.
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Old 01-14-2009, 09:10 PM   #6
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Some answers for you-

Here is a link to a video I posted. I put a TPI'ed 350 into my 87 YJ. It has a turbo 350 and now I'm putting in a 700R4 in front of an NP242 driving HD axled Dana 30 and 35 with Yukon 4.11s.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f59/here-my-jeep-clean-up-sbc-350-tpi-homemade-injection-647200/

I really like the swap. It is a daily driver and a great hobby.
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Old 01-14-2009, 09:13 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tomb Raider View Post
Factory crossmember, use chevy mount, drill new holes in the crossmember.
I am 75% done with my SBC swap. Finishing the transmission mount, installing shifters, and getting exhaust work done is all I need to finish mine up. I will be making a build thread next week probably. I wanted to do a thread that showed our progress but it seemed like we've been working on it whenever we have time so I haven't had time to do a write up.

We plan to use the factory crossmember and chevy mount and drill new holes as Tomb Raider said. I used the saddle mount and so far have seen no problems but I have not driven it yet. I will report back on how I like it. We used the bolt in saddle type so we didn't have to drag it to the shop that has a welder. Using the saddle mount was extremely easy and was perfectly placed to use the stock driveshafts.

For the exhaust, we used some stock manifolds. I'm not sure what they came off of but they are actually stainless steel manifolds that almost look like headers. They fit just fine and look pretty cool. I will post some pictures when I make a thread.

I hope we will have mine finished by this weekend but it's 3 degrees outside right now and the shop we are working in is not insulated so I'm not sure when we'll be back at it. If you have any questions or would like pictures of anything just let me know and I will try to get them for you.
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Old 01-14-2009, 09:32 PM   #8
mandng0
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Man, you guys are on top of it... I wish you guys were down here in Ft. Lauderdale.

Ill be watchin with an eagle eye to see what I need to do. I think Im gonna go ahead and get the saddle mount just to make things a little easier on myself.
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Old 01-14-2009, 10:30 PM   #9
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The saddle mount did not work out for me. I used center outlet blockhugger headers with the y-pipe under the oilpan and I had issues with melting both motor mounts. It also placed my engine lower in the frame than I would have liked.

The skid is easy, just re-drill for the chevy mounts.

Forget about your driveshafts for now. Mount the engine where it fits allowing a sufficient cooling system. Worry about the driveshafts after you can fit a large enough radiator and fan.
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Old 01-14-2009, 10:47 PM   #10
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I don't forsee the manifolds that I have melting the motor mounts. Headers might cause a problem but with stock manifolds they really aren't very close to the mounts. I may regret the decision with the saddle mount but I don't expect it.

Cooling is definitely important. I bought a conversion radiator on ebay that I saw someone in a previous thread was using. I hope it works.
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Old 01-14-2009, 10:55 PM   #11
mandng0
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So everyone is suggesting that I go with the weld in mounts...?
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Old 01-14-2009, 11:25 PM   #12
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I used the bolt in kit, worked great so far, it does mount the engine low in the frame but in a driver that will be great, will give you a lower center of gravity.

As for melting the mounts, the mounts are the EXACT same mounts as what fit the C3 Vettes, not expensive or even hard to change but with manifolds I don't imagine you would have any troubles at all.

As for the 231C transfer case, what we did was take the stock 231j transfer and put the back half of the case as well as the chain and both output shafts in the 231C case. This gives you a transfer case that when used with the bolt in saddle will allow you to re-use your stock driveahfts.

With the bolt in saddle we are able to run a 18" flexfan with a 2" spacer and it clears the SBC swap radiator by about an inch. We still need to have a custom fan shroud built but with the cold weather we have been having that won't be a problem for a while.

Good luck with your swap!
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Old 01-15-2009, 11:58 AM   #13
mandng0
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So here's another no brainer for you guys... my motor still has the mechanicl fuel pump on it...

It needs to be removed correct?

Can you guys enlighten me to how I need to set up the fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail and what exactly goes in the place of the mechanical fuel pump once i remove it?
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Old 01-15-2009, 02:08 PM   #14
1 ton yj
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The fuel pump blockoff plate for the mechanical pump was a factory part on 87-95 small blocks. For some reason they didn't change that part of the block until 96. It's a couple bux at the dealer.

The regulator is on the fuel rail in the back by the distributor, all you do is hook up the vacum hose and plumb the supply and return lines. I use -6 or 3/8 line for both. Russel and Areoquip make the metric o-ring to AN adapters for the fuel rail, they are actually power steering AN adapters. For a fuel pump I recomend a Walbro 392. Search Ebay, they are about the same price as the Chinaman Ford inline pumps everyone gets from Autozone but with better flow and pressure, and not made in China crap. I've been abusing one for 5 years and it's still good.
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Old 01-15-2009, 04:59 PM   #15
mandng0
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Ahh so dont use the stock pump that came with the YJ? And does this one go in the tank also?

I thought Id be able to use the stock pump
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