Kill switch - Page 3 - JeepForum.com
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post #31 of 39 Old 08-31-2014, 05:48 PM
Mambo_Dave
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Originally Posted by Reno72 View Post
There has to be wires coming from your fuel tank, look on the inside frame rail.

The orange black was my hot wire to the pump. I opened up the wire cover along the frame rail going to the fuel tank. I had three wires, the orange/black hot to pump, the dark green/yellow as ground and a tan wire which I assume is the fuel gage. Follow those wires and see where they go, mine crossed over the TC where the ground wire came out by the firewall and attached to the engine block. If yours goes all the way up the driver side it may be like those who's ground is on the E brake bracket.
Inside frame rail on the driver's side or passenger?

I have to admit I only looked at the driver's side because I was looking at the e-brake flange for it, and because the exhaust was blocking the passenger's side.

Just went out, but it's too dark to look again.

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post #32 of 39 Old 08-31-2014, 06:06 PM Thread Starter
Reno72
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Driver side. The wires come from across the top of the TC over to the inside frame rail, it would be at the very top of the rail, not as low as your photo shows but above all the ebrake cables.
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post #33 of 39 Old 08-31-2014, 06:41 PM
Mambo_Dave
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Originally Posted by Reno72 View Post
Driver side. The wires come from across the top of the TC over to the inside frame rail, it would be at the very top of the rail, not as low as your photo shows but above all the ebrake cables.
Thank you - that's one place I didn't look. I'll check tomorrow.
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post #34 of 39 Old 08-31-2014, 06:55 PM
Mike Romain
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambo_Dave View Post

I looked at both the plate up under and the actual e-brake. I did see an orange black near the e-brake pedal going to what seemed to be a relay, but didn't see it attaching to either for a ground.

Am I missing my 1991 fuel pump ground somewhere here? The red arrow points to the orange black going into some relay.

Under the Jeep: no wires that I saw

E-brake:
Above your e-brake pedal on it's mount frame on most or over near the dipstick on some I read on another thread.

Mike
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post #35 of 39 Old 09-02-2014, 12:45 AM
MoreBassXD
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Just want to throw another idea out here. Just had it myself for my own jeep. It works with pretty much any kill switch that uses a relay. Instead of a 4 prong relay you use a 5 prong. You connect your horn to the 87a prong so if they try to start it without the killswitch flipped the horn blares(I have a nice loud airhorn :P) and if I do this I might try to find a was to make it go for 5 seconds or so after they let go of the key. Just long enough for them to freak out and run off.
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post #36 of 39 Old 09-02-2014, 05:41 AM
fishadventure
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MoreBassXD
Just want to throw another idea out here. Just had it myself for my own jeep. It works with pretty much any kill switch that uses a relay. Instead of a 4 prong relay you use a 5 prong. You connect your horn to the 87a prong so if they try to start it without the killswitch flipped the horn blares(I have a nice loud airhorn :P) and if I do this I might try to find a was to make it go for 5 seconds or so after they let go of the key. Just long enough for them to freak out and run off.
I love Things To Foil Thieves

Another thought to add to the relay/kill switch idea: a simple 2-channel remote on/off switch that comes with two fobs can be used in the circuit ahead of the relay. That way switch placement is irrelevant.

I get mine from Amazon- outfits that sell car alarms have these. I got the two-function unit because I thought it might be handy to have a light on the second trigger but I haven't done that yet. The last one I got was like $15-$16 including shipping.

A $45 Amazon car alarm can be employed similarly: combined with inexpensive door lock solenoids you can disable the fuel pump AND ignition while also securing the hood, tailgate, and half-doors (in my case) from lift off theft. (My doors only lock/unlock by key or remote- the interior locks have been disabled)

How many old threads actually convince *you* to read all 36 pages? http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/length-envy-build-thread-629700/
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post #37 of 39 Old 09-02-2014, 05:43 AM
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I say relay above but meant "switch" but the app won't let me /edit/

How many old threads actually convince *you* to read all 36 pages? http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/length-envy-build-thread-629700/
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post #38 of 39 Old 09-02-2014, 05:57 AM
fishadventure
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MoreBassXD
might try to find a was to make it go for 5 seconds or so after they let go of the key. Just long enough for them to freak out and run off.
A quick search did not reveal any delay runtimers but it did just occur to that your idea could also be implemented by said $45 alarm system which DOES have the timer function built in. You don't have to use all the alarm features but some could be handy

How many old threads actually convince *you* to read all 36 pages? http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/length-envy-build-thread-629700/
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post #39 of 39 Old 09-02-2014, 10:28 PM
MoreBassXD
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fishadventure View Post
A quick search did not reveal any delay runtimers but it did just occur to that your idea could also be implemented by said $45 alarm system which DOES have the timer function built in. You don't have to use all the alarm features but some could be handy
Actually thinking back to my times of make circuit boards when I was younger, you can easily make one with a capacitor and a resistor. I even designed the circuit to do all the switching with where the timer should be implemented, now I just need to design the timer circuit.

Edit: if anyone figures out what capacitor and resistor to use to get 5-8 seconds of a relay switching please send me it

Edit 2: Just found a premade programmable timer for 10 bucks, probably even cheaper than making your own. Get Your Timer Here

Last edited by MoreBassXD; 09-02-2014 at 10:52 PM.
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