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Unread 08-06-2013, 02:31 PM   #16
remmons
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rproject View Post
Your sarcasm is not lost on me, but is always appreciated.


Sounds like that you are on the right track. I can understand wanting to not spend as much money on replacement parts, I have taken many paths on obtaining parts by spending as little as I can.

I was having issues with my YJ overheating just a few weeks ago. My temp gauge would slowly climb up to just under the redline, then it would rapidly drop back down, this process had repeated it self many times. I had replaced the thermostat, but this didn't fix the problem. I had replaced the fan clutch with a used one from the salvage yard, didn't fix it either. I had replaced the thermostat AGAIN, still didn't fix it. So I had purchased a new fan clutch, still overheated. I then went to another parts store and bought a Robertshaw brand thermostat and installed it. This had finally fixed the overheating issue. Sometimes the replacement parts are no good right off the shelf.

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Unread 08-06-2013, 02:35 PM   #17
SeanB95YJ
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you don't NEED to have the fan controlled by a temp sensor... beyond the fan (whether you get used or new is up to you), all you really need is 2 relays (one each for high & low speed) and a 3 position switch (on low - off - on high)

wire the relays (fused) direct to the battery (or PDC) and then run the trigger wire from the fuse box under the dash to a port that is 12v when key is on... run that wire to the supply of the switch, then one lead (on low) from the switch to the relay controlling the low speed for the fan, and the other lead (on high) to the relay for high speed. keep it primarily in the low speed and for regular street driving just forget about it for the most part... if you're towing or stuck in traffic and notice the temp gauge climbing a bit, flick the switch to high to get it back down. Also in the dead of winter, you can do your warm-up with the fan off to help speed up the warming process.

when wheeling, leave it in one position (high or low, whichever works best) and flip it to off when heading for mud/water

I leave mine on low 90% of the time (those fans move quite a bit of air), only flipping to high for a min or 2 when fighting a long uphill
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Unread 08-06-2013, 03:00 PM   #18
Rproject
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I feel ya, remmons. I tested the last thermostat before I installed it to make SURE it was good.

SeanB95YJ. I've seen that setup before. I have a friend on Drummond Island, MI who runs that way. She forgot to turn off the fan --- once. LOL
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The "sideways" build thread: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/r...hread-2164793/
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Unread 08-06-2013, 03:17 PM   #19
TSEJEEPERS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SeanB95YJ View Post
you don't NEED to have the fan controlled by a temp sensor... beyond the fan (whether you get used or new is up to you), all you really need is 2 relays (one each for high & low speed) and a 3 position switch (on low - off - on high)

wire the relays (fused) direct to the battery (or PDC) and then run the trigger wire from the fuse box under the dash to a port that is 12v when key is on... run that wire to the supply of the switch, then one lead (on low) from the switch to the relay controlling the low speed for the fan, and the other lead (on high) to the relay for high speed. keep it primarily in the low speed and for regular street driving just forget about it for the most part... if you're towing or stuck in traffic and notice the temp gauge climbing a bit, flick the switch to high to get it back down. Also in the dead of winter, you can do your warm-up with the fan off to help speed up the warming process.

when wheeling, leave it in one position (high or low, whichever works best) and flip it to off when heading for mud/water

I leave mine on low 90% of the time (those fans move quite a bit of air), only flipping to high for a min or 2 when fighting a long uphill
^^^
This, I ran mine for years like this.
You will not forget to turn it off because the Taurus fans are loud.
Forgetting to turn it on is more of a problem.
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Unread 08-06-2013, 05:20 PM   #20
GrantYJ
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If you're going through water crossings on a regular basis, a solid fan is just going to either tear up fans or water pumps (if your fan is strong enough to survive encounters with mud and water, keep in mind that all that force is still going somewhere, and in this case, it'll be trying to destroy your water pump).

If you're more comfortable with a new fan, have at it, but I'd trust a high mileage 2-speed fan from a Taurus, Volvo, Lincoln, Cougar, or T-Bird hands down over an aftermarket fan. I've used both. I've had nothing but headaches with the aftermarket fans, and I've never had a 2-speed Ford/Volvo fan fail. Also, the factory fans pull more air.

I used a T-Bird fan (actually looks like it's factory installed on my radiator) with a thermal switch from Rockauto (89 Porsche 2 speed switch), that goes into a housing made from a Mazda axle nut that I welded into a few inches of exhaust pipe that now resides in my top radiator hose. It's powered through a switched ignition source that triggers the relay a JY PDC from a Chrysler. The relay power feeds into a Volvo fan relay switch that wires to the thermal switch and the fans. It's a very clean setup and it came in at under $100. I don't recall how much my new radiator hose was, but it was long overdue. I spent a Saturday afternoon putting it in. Most of the time was making brackets and whatnot.

JY fan = $20
Rockauto thermal switch = $12
Axle nut = $5
exhaust pipe = free
JY PDC = $20
JY Volvo relay = $5
Switch = had it in my electricery box?
LED = Also in my electricery box?

My switch (that goes to the PDC relay) is a single pole double throw. This means that the switch has only two positions but both are turning something on. In the normal "On" position, my fan works like a normal auto fan, only coming on when needed. When it's in the "Off" position (actually, another "On") it illuminates a really obnoxious red LED (so that I don't overheat my engine by accident).

If this doesn't make sense, look here:
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/f...cheap-1325896/

If you don't feel like wading through 50 pages, drop me a line. It really is a very straight forward install.
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Unread 08-07-2013, 05:38 AM   #21
vadslram
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Just out of curiosity, What did you do to tear up a Thermostat? I understand the radiator and clutch but the only reason a themostat would go bad is years of wear or it was defective in the first place.

I've got to agree with all the electric fan people. I found that before I replaced my belt driven one , every time I did deep water my air cleaner was soaked. Never hydro-d thank dog but the fan threw water everywhere under the hood and soaked EVERYTHING.
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Unread 08-07-2013, 04:12 PM   #22
Rproject
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For the love of all things holy!!!!

I replaced the thermostat last week because it was showing as failing. Everything seemed fine while on the road, but when I went to do a little wheeling at a local farm, the temps started to rise. OK, fan clutch. No big thing. That's what started this whole thread.

Today I go out for a nice little drive after work to chill out. 20 minutes into it my temps are pushing 210!! What the HELL!!!!!????!?!?!?! It's only 85 degrees outside!

In the last year I've replaced:
Water pump
2 - thermostats
Radiator
Heater core
Upper - Lower hoses

There's nothing left!!!!

Besides that, the fan clutch doesn't even come in to play when you're at speed. The air flowing over the radiator is enough to cool the system! Granted, I was b**ls deep in June up on Drummond Island and I've been battling this ever since. BUT, since then I've cleaned the radiator multiple times and have good water flow with a regular garden hose through the fins. The radiator is bright and clean. There are no leaks, but for the LIFE of me I CANNOT get these frickin' frackin' temperatures to stay DOWN!!!

WHAT AM I MISSING?!?!?!?!?!????!?!?!?!?
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The "sideways" build thread: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/r...hread-2164793/
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Unread 08-07-2013, 04:43 PM   #23
mike_breaker_5
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flush the block?
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Unread 08-07-2013, 04:52 PM   #24
Rproject
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I think I'm going to have to have my mechanic buddy take a look at it. He's thinking, with all the replacement parts, that I may have a bad head gasket. Maybe, but he has to look at it first. I've never taken an engine down that far before and would be terrified of screwing something up, doing it myself.

I have noticed an oil leak, recently, from just below the spark plugs.

To say I'm not happy would be the understatement of the week.
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The "sideways" build thread: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/r...hread-2164793/
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Unread 08-07-2013, 04:57 PM   #25
GrantYJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rproject View Post
my temps are pushing 210!! What the HELL!!!!!????!?!?!?! It's only 85 degrees outside!
I'm not real familiar with the Throttle body injected 2.5s, but the Multiports are meant to run at about 210 on the gage. I've had mine since '99 (and a few hundred thousand miles) and unless something was wrong, that's where it's always run.

If the TBIs do run cooler, is it possible that they gave you a T-Stat. for a newer model?
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Unread 08-07-2013, 05:04 PM   #26
Rproject
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GrantYJ View Post
I'm not real familiar with the Throttle body injected 2.5s, but the Multiports are meant to run at about 210 on the gage. I've had mine since '99 (and a few hundred thousand miles) and unless something was wrong, that's where it's always run.

If the TBIs do run cooler, is it possible that they gave you a T-Stat. for a newer model?
No, I'm certain it's a 185 stat. It's stamped in the element of the t-stat, but thanks for asking as that could have been a culprit.
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The "sideways" build thread: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/r...hread-2164793/
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Unread 08-07-2013, 05:44 PM   #27
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Gauge could be reading wrong, but 210 is about where most of my jeeps show.
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Unread 08-07-2013, 10:29 PM   #28
WidowYj91
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210 is exactly where u should be!
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Unread 08-08-2013, 05:11 AM   #29
Rproject
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When the temp got over 210, I stopped driving to keep the temps from continuing to climb. With a 185 stat, my temps should not be over 210.
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1996 White ZJ i-6 auto bone stock
1987 Maroon YJ i-6 Auto (1.5" body lift. OME 2 1/2" lift. Rancho RS5000 shocks. Rancho steering stabilizer. A-Z Fabrication rock slides. More upgrades coming soon - LOL)


The "sideways" build thread: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/r...hread-2164793/
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Unread 08-08-2013, 06:33 AM   #30
GrantYJ
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During the previous cooling issues, did you ever use "Bar's Leaks" or a similar product? I know a lot of folks swear by it as a band aid fix to get you by until you can make a repair, but from what I've seen, it can do more harm than good.
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