 |
|
|
07-19-2012, 06:30 PM
|
#1
|
|
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: moultrie, GA
Posts: 1,045
|
|
|
|
|
07-19-2012, 07:17 PM
|
#2
|
|
Another Jeep Guy
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania
Posts: 2,458
|
Looks like the dark ones are burning oil. If the carb was running it rich, They would all be dark. Plus the texture of the carbon screams oil burning.
__________________
www.pghoffroad.com
My SOA Build
Recovery Gear Basics
My BUDGET York OBA Install
Budget Welding Cart
Carling Contura Switch Panel
If it has tracks, tires or tits, its gonna cause a problem.
"Everytime someone "upgrades" a D35, an angel looses its wings."
"Dizzy" - What SnoopDog would call a Distributor if he was a mechanic. I cringe every time I hear this moronic term
Quote:
|
Originally Posted by Warren Zevon
Send lawyers, guns and money. The **** has hit the fan...
|
92, 4.0, AW4, 8.8, D30, 15x10, 37's, SOA etc, etc
92, 2.5, 30, 8.8, 4.88, Locked, Winch, 15x8, 35's, 3.5" (RIP)
|
|
|
|
|
07-19-2012, 07:20 PM
|
#3
|
|
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: moultrie, GA
Posts: 1,045
|
Would a rebuilt engine be burning oil? I never smell oil burning just rich smelling
|
|
|
|
|
07-19-2012, 07:21 PM
|
#4
|
|
Blimps are terrible...
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Warrensburg, MO
Posts: 3,135
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by evanjeep
Would a rebuilt engine be burning oil?
|
Would it or should it?
It souldn't be but could be.
Oil was my thought at first glance too but some of the old hats on here will probably have a more accurate opinion than mine.
__________________
01 WJ Limited - 4.7L - Current build here
08 Dodge 2500 Laramie(DD/Tow Rig): Cummins 6.7L/G56 6spd, Deletes, Smarty, SBDD3250, 3.5" / 285 75/18 Toyo AT2s / B&W Gooseneck
05 Liberty Limited (Wife's): 3.7/Auto, OME + Clevis + Rear Iso's, JBA upper arms, 245 70/17 Duratracs w/stock 17" Limited wheels and 1.25" spacers.
|
|
|
|
07-19-2012, 07:23 PM
|
#5
|
|
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: moultrie, GA
Posts: 1,045
|
Im gonna head to the beach tomorrow 3 hr drive. When i get back ill pull the new plugs and post pictures. Would the fouled plugs smell like oil because they dont? Also these are the plugs that were put in after the rebuild about 3000 miles ago.
|
|
|
|
|
07-24-2012, 05:53 PM
|
#6
|
|
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: moultrie, GA
Posts: 1,045
|
Just looked at my plugs and the only soot/black stuff is on the very bottom around the threads. Drove about 370 miles
|
|
|
|
|
07-24-2012, 06:46 PM
|
#7
|
|
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Tuckerton, NJ
Posts: 231
|
It looks like it's running a bit rich to me. Adjust the carb drive it for a while and look at the plugs again. Is the timing right, on the new engine? How does it smell out back at the exhaust? I'm sure it smells rich right? Again, carb adjustment should cure it. If I remember right,.you could try a hotter plug too.
|
|
|
|
|
07-24-2012, 07:01 PM
|
#8
|
|
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: moultrie, GA
Posts: 1,045
|
I havent checked the timing since the new carb upgrade. I did take off the timing advance
|
|
|
|
|
07-24-2012, 07:18 PM
|
#9
|
|
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Tuckerton, NJ
Posts: 231
|
Why did you remove the timing advance hose? Do have any pictures of your yj you could post here? Like to see it. I have an 89.
|
|
|
|
|
07-24-2012, 07:30 PM
|
#10
|
|
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: moultrie, GA
Posts: 1,045
|
I could get some tomorrow of whatever you want. I removed the hose from it because i have the non smog 2100. The guys instructions said i didn't need it.
|
|
|
|
|
07-24-2012, 07:44 PM
|
#11
|
|
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: corpus christi, texas
Posts: 4,083
|
you do need the vacuum advance on your distributor but you don;t exactly need it to come from a ported slot on the carb. mine runs a lot better using manifold vacuum instead of ported vacuum
__________________
A lot of teenagers are people who express a burning desire to be different be dressing exactly alike.
Panties aren't my favorite, but they're right next to it...
No one is normal, there are just a lot of weird people with things in common.
|
|
|
|
|
07-24-2012, 07:57 PM
|
#12
|
|
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Tuckerton, NJ
Posts: 231
|
That is totally wrong information he told you. You need to hook it back up. Do it like superj said I think? Not to sure about that though. For a little better performance advance the timing just a few degrees. If you have a timing advance light,.use it! They are more accurate then non advance lights.
superj, using a non ported vacuum source wouldn't that cause the timing to be always in the advanced stage?
|
|
|
|
|
07-24-2012, 08:13 PM
|
#13
|
|
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: moultrie, GA
Posts: 1,045
|
I haven't noticed anything different but ill try to hook it back up
|
|
|
|
|
07-24-2012, 08:25 PM
|
#14
|
|
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Albuquerque, New Mexico
Posts: 668
|
Looks like a little oil. Cylinders 3 and 4 will always burn a little richer mixture than the others because they are so close to the carb. The others look like theres a good mixture. (golden brown) But the rough ones do look like theres some oil getting in there. Nothing to get all bent out of shape over. But keep an eye on it over the next couple hundred / thousand miles. If its running good now let it be and just check on it every now and then. #5 also looks like theres some coolant getting there as well.
Once they look like this then you have a real problem on you hands. But even if they look like this you probably could drive it a ways yet if your driving the motor into the ground. Mine still ran strong on 1.5 dead cylinders. lol. The 4.2 is awesome.
__________________
89 YJ.. My first jeep and will be around for years to come. ▀||||▀
Current project: Ford 9" spooled 35 spline, HPD44, Along with all the good stuff: Suspension, SYE, drive shafts, tummy tuck, armor.
Build Thread: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/my-yj-build-adventures-thread-1356941/
|
|
|
|
|
07-24-2012, 08:59 PM
|
#15
|
|
Registered User
Join Date: May 2012
Location: San José, Costa Rica
Posts: 48
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by rambo3489
Looks like a little oil. Cylinders 3 and 4 will always burn a little richer mixture than the others because they are so close to the carb. The others look like theres a good mixture. (golden brown) But the rough ones do look like theres some oil getting in there. Nothing to get all bent out of shape over. But keep an eye on it over the next couple hundred / thousand miles. If its running good now let it be and just check on it every now and then. #5 also looks like theres some coolant getting there as well.
Once they look like this then you have a real problem on you hands. But even if they look like this you probably could drive it a ways yet if your driving the motor into the ground. Mine still ran strong on 1.5 dead cylinders. lol. The 4.2 is awesome.
|
Just today I got my spark plugs out and cylinders 3 and 4 looked almost just like the right one on youre pic, so what does this means? Mine where one side clean and the other was really black and textured it looked like mud!!! the others where in a light brown color which its supposed to be normal right?
__________________
Weber carb, Nutter Bypass.
Mud-Terrain tires 33x12.50
SOA Lift and Rancho RS5000 Shocks
And thinking of lots more!
|
|
|
|
|
|
>
just changed spark plugs
