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Unread 12-11-2011, 05:17 PM   #61
ldso
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Finished welding spring perches, measured and welded shock brackets. Put more stitch welds where tubes meet pumpkin. Wiped down with degreaser and painted. I had a fresh can of charcoal metallic around so that's what I used.


My back was so shot after the welding and painting I could hardly walk straight up, but I wasn't done. So I got a stool and ran the wirewheel on the frame in the back wheelwells, wiped em down, and sprayed 'em. Been wanting to do that for a long time.


Started to install the new u-joint on the inner driver's front shaft. I bent the ears toward each other a little and it won't fit. So I'll have to take the u-joint back out and whack on it until it's straight enough.


The welding went really good today. I heated up every weld with the propane torch before my first pass. Feels damn good to have the axle welded and painted It seems like it just needs bolted up now! And it is close to that. Gotta put my new pinion yoke on when it comes, and put the new u-joints in the driveshaft, and then see how much shorter the shaft needs to be.

I think it's looking great

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1995 YJ "Mabel", 2.5L Muncie SM465 np231j 4.88's HP30 Lockright JK 44 Detroit 33s CJ clip

Actually, it's pronounced "mill-e-wah-que" which is Algonquin for "the good land."
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Unread 12-15-2011, 09:01 PM   #62
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Made it to Harbor Freight in spite of it being Orange Barrel Season in Ohio. Got a grease gun so I can grease my new u-joints with zerks and my Currie booms. Also got 2-for-$2 LED flashlights and dropped some $$$ on the deluxe ball-joint u-joint press kit. I'm looking forward to letting my impact press the rest of my old u-joints out

Other than that I escaped without dropping too much Jeep part money. Still waiting for my Teraflex pinion yoke. I have never really wanted any Teraflex stuff but this was the easiest way to go this time. Gonna have me some driveshaft bling
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1995 YJ "Mabel", 2.5L Muncie SM465 np231j 4.88's HP30 Lockright JK 44 Detroit 33s CJ clip

Actually, it's pronounced "mill-e-wah-que" which is Algonquin for "the good land."
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Unread 12-16-2011, 08:43 PM   #63
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Dude. This is exciting.
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1995 YJ "Mabel", 2.5L Muncie SM465 np231j 4.88's HP30 Lockright JK 44 Detroit 33s CJ clip

Actually, it's pronounced "mill-e-wah-que" which is Algonquin for "the good land."
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Unread 12-16-2011, 09:28 PM   #64
ZeroGravity
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None of your pics are working for me.
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Unread 12-16-2011, 09:34 PM   #65
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yeah the server just went down The video card overheats and it locks up sometimes. I'll reset it when I get home.
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1995 YJ "Mabel", 2.5L Muncie SM465 np231j 4.88's HP30 Lockright JK 44 Detroit 33s CJ clip

Actually, it's pronounced "mill-e-wah-que" which is Algonquin for "the good land."
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Unread 12-16-2011, 10:15 PM   #66
oldtime_ironman
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Zalman copper coolers for the win. I used to use them on everything when I was building my SMP boxes. Kinda learned the hard way. Nowdays trying to learn how to setup a headless debian box for file server/backups. No Samba, all scp and ssh. Planning to make it available thru a linky on my desktop so its just like a "dumping spot" for files.
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Unread 12-17-2011, 05:09 PM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldtime_ironman View Post
Zalman copper coolers for the win. I used to use them on everything when I was building my SMP boxes. Kinda learned the hard way. Nowdays trying to learn how to setup a headless debian box for file server/backups. No Samba, all scp and ssh. Planning to make it available thru a linky on my desktop so its just like a "dumping spot" for files.
Hmm I will check out these coolers that you speak of. Long story short, my box has a mainboard and video card that need to be disposed of and upgraded.

Running headless would get rid of any video card related issues I might end up hosting the web content on an old machine that I have that runs nice and cool.

I kind of do what you are saying, my web and mail server is also my home file server. But I do run Samba on it so that my wife can print from her work laptops and whatnot.

Anyways thanks for the tip!
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1995 YJ "Mabel", 2.5L Muncie SM465 np231j 4.88's HP30 Lockright JK 44 Detroit 33s CJ clip

Actually, it's pronounced "mill-e-wah-que" which is Algonquin for "the good land."
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Unread 12-21-2011, 11:49 AM   #68
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Test fit the yoke, and sure enough the driveshaft uses a 1330 joint at the rear diff. Gonna have to take my u-joints back and get 1330s, and a combo 1310/1330 for the new axle.

But I did get the new Teraflex yoke installed

Also not pictured yet is the new paint on my gas tank skid, I wire-wheeled it and hit it with the Rustoleum gloss black. I can see why people use the Rustoleum, it looks damn good. My phone ran out of memory when I tried to take pictures so I said screw it.
I then started working on the front u-joint replacement again. I hit the "ears" of the shaft too many times when getting the old u-joint out and they are angled in a little bit. It is about 2mm too much to get the clips on the new u-joint, and it would bind really bad if I did get the clips on. So I whacked the inside of the ears with the 4lb for a while to bend them back out. Next time I will heat it up and hit it some more.
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1995 YJ "Mabel", 2.5L Muncie SM465 np231j 4.88's HP30 Lockright JK 44 Detroit 33s CJ clip

Actually, it's pronounced "mill-e-wah-que" which is Algonquin for "the good land."
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Unread 12-21-2011, 12:08 PM   #69
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Also found 4.10 gears on JKOwners classified for the D44 for $50, and there is a Trak-lok on the JF classifieds right now for $125. I want to cave in and just go with 4.10 gears and be done, but part of me thinks I've waited this long on the swap and I should hold out for 4.88's front and rear. I can drive the Jeep in 2wd with the factory 3.73 gears in the rear diff for a while, until I can afford to finish the regear. I won't be able to wheel it tho until then

Winter wheeling here in Ohio is pretty fun, even novice easy trails sometimes turn into a winch fest... Last year I winched myself and my buddy's JK Rubi, popped a bead on one of my tires on a big incline and had to put the spare on with the Hi-Lift, and got a big goose-egg on the sidewall of one of my other tires when 4-inch thick pieces of ice pinched it. I also inverted a shackle, etcetera.

If I would have had a front locker I wouldn't have had to winch, but my passenger side front tire was uphill and spinning freely with no weight on it. I could get moving about a foot or two, but with no front pull I would lose to gravity and the locked rear just spun.
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1995 YJ "Mabel", 2.5L Muncie SM465 np231j 4.88's HP30 Lockright JK 44 Detroit 33s CJ clip

Actually, it's pronounced "mill-e-wah-que" which is Algonquin for "the good land."
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Unread 12-29-2011, 09:48 PM   #70
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Bolted the axle back in and set the Jeep down on it.


Checked out the shock and driveshaft situation.


The driveshaft has about 2" of compression left on the slip yoke. I cycled the suspension and it seemed fine. I wasn't quite able to do full stuff, I have to jack up the front end to make the rear stuff. It seems like that is about how it was on the D35. Maybe the Teraflex yoke leaves you some extra room.

The shocks are at full compression at ride height since I mounted the shock tabs for maximum axle clearance. With the bump stop extensions I need about 3 more inches of compression.

I dug out one of my stock shocks, but it had about the same amount of compression as my Rough Country shocks that came with the 4" lift, at 12 inches. The stock shock at full droop was 19", the RC full droop is 23". I don't need quite that much droop, but the flex is nice. I need to raise the upper shock mounts.

I looked online and M.O.R.E. has 2" upper shock mount extenders for $100. You have to drill a hole in the frame for a stud to sit in. I'm thinking that if I have to drill a hole in 1/2" steel frame, I would rather just fab mounts. I'm thinking of a way to make mounts out of some angle steel I have. I could give myself a full 3" extension without cutting the tub, thanks to my body lift. It just needs to have a place to bolt the shock to 5" above the frame, and about 2" inside of the inner side of the frame.
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1995 YJ "Mabel", 2.5L Muncie SM465 np231j 4.88's HP30 Lockright JK 44 Detroit 33s CJ clip

Actually, it's pronounced "mill-e-wah-que" which is Algonquin for "the good land."
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Unread 12-30-2011, 09:41 PM   #71
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Ordered this Teraflex upper shock bar and the lower shock mount turny brackets.


I could spend a day or so fabbing up upper shock mounts, but right now I don't have the time but I have some overtime money. I have to build the brake lines so I feel like I've fabbed enough on this project.

Got the flexible brake hoses that come off of the calipers and the Teraflex stuff shipped from Quadratec.com. 4WheelParts are shipping the banjo bolts, Quadratec doesn't carry them yet.

Also today I went to a couple of places. Advance Auto swapped me the 1310 (1-153BF) u-joints for the 1330 u-joints I actually need for the driveshafts. They also swapped one of the 1310s for a 1330/1310 combo joint. I got $2 in change back on that deal. Usually it goes the other way and I'm $2 short. They didn't have the brake hoses so I went to the Caldwell Dodge parts department on 161. They are the Mopar Chrysler Dodge Jeep parts supplier for Columbus Ohio. I have used them a couple times to get brake parts. Unfortunately they didn't have them either, and wanted twice the money. So I took home my u-joints and ordered the rest online.

Now I can connect the driveshaft, and I will actually be able to turn the wheels on my new axle with my 2.5L Big step in the swap.

Once I get the brakes together and the shock mount parts on, I will have stoppers and shocks. Then I have to rig my muffler and 90deg elbow up. Then I can drive!

edit: 1330 joint is 2-4800, and 1310/1330 joint is 1-0134
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1995 YJ "Mabel", 2.5L Muncie SM465 np231j 4.88's HP30 Lockright JK 44 Detroit 33s CJ clip

Actually, it's pronounced "mill-e-wah-que" which is Algonquin for "the good land."

Last edited by ldso; 12-30-2011 at 09:43 PM.. Reason: forgot u-joint part numbers
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Unread 12-30-2011, 10:38 PM   #72
kjg26
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Post up how you like those teraflex parts. I was looking at both upper and lower shock mounts for the rear. I already have the extended shock towers for the front, Just need to get around to installing them.
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Unread 12-31-2011, 05:22 PM   #73
ldso
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typing one handed...
driveshaft out, shocks off, taking exhaust apart


ujoints out - this ujoint press w/ impact rox!


wirewheeled dshaft, cleaned and sprayed rustoleum


got dirty - the golden retriever must always play w tennis ball


be careful kids - one blow of the rubber mallet while taking off exhaust


ice pack


gonna drink some ciders now - happy new years
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1995 YJ "Mabel", 2.5L Muncie SM465 np231j 4.88's HP30 Lockright JK 44 Detroit 33s CJ clip

Actually, it's pronounced "mill-e-wah-que" which is Algonquin for "the good land."
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Unread 12-31-2011, 06:01 PM   #74
oldtime_ironman
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Oh crap you sure that finger aint broken??? Wow I woulda got that checked out...
.
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Unread 12-31-2011, 08:41 PM   #75
ldso
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yeah thanks man, it's not too bad. it's been on ice here and there. i've broken stuff before, this doesnt have that sharp pain that you get with a break. made me see stars for a minute when i hit it though!
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1995 YJ "Mabel", 2.5L Muncie SM465 np231j 4.88's HP30 Lockright JK 44 Detroit 33s CJ clip

Actually, it's pronounced "mill-e-wah-que" which is Algonquin for "the good land."
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