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Unread 11-05-2011, 05:08 PM   #46
ldso
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Bolted up and the Jeep is sitting on it.




I'm digging it.

I had it all measured and ready to weld until I put the weight of the Jeep on it and took it off the jackstands. Now it is 1/4" too far to the driver's side. I want to get it a little closer to centered before I weld the perches.

The garage floor is cold and I'm not going to wrestle with it any more today. I'll have to jack it back up and loosen the u-bolts again.

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1995 YJ "Mabel", 2.5L Muncie SM465 np231j 4.88's HP30 Lockright JK 44 Detroit 33s CJ clip

measure zero times, cut eight or ten
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Unread 11-07-2011, 11:55 AM   #47
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Found my pinion yoke and brake parts that I need at 4wd.com. I think I could have kept the pinion yoke from my D35 and it would have worked. Doh. Anyway for the record the part info:
1330 Series Pinion Yoke by Dana Spicer
Part #D/S2-4-7631-1
$36.99
Caliper Adapter Mounting Bolt by
Chrysler
Part #JEP68003276AA
quantity 2 =$3.98
Disc Brake Caliper Adapter by Chrysler
Part #JEP68003775AA
Quantity:
2
$67.98
Brake Caliper Locating Pin by Omix-Ada
Part #OAI16749.11
Quantity:
2
$39.98
UPS Ground: $8.50
Total:
$168.06
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measure zero times, cut eight or ten
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Unread 11-09-2011, 09:44 PM   #48
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I looked up the BOM number on the D44, it is a 3.73 STD axle, not trulok.

Jacked up the back of the jeep by the springs, just enough to get the wheels off the ground. Loosened up the u-bolts a little, and started wiggling the rear axle with my pry bar. Went way too far the other way, ended up like an inch too far to the passenger side. Started working it back and now from the plates on the end of the axle tubes to the inside edge of the outside of my spring perch is exactly 7.5" on both sides. I got tired and a little dizzy from laying under the Jeep with my sinuses jacked up, but I will measure tomorrow and see if it is really even. If so then I will mess with pinion angle a little, and tighten the u-bolts and set it down. Then I can finally weld the spring perches.

Played with the driveshaft and pinion angle and it looks like the driveshaft is too long now. The D44 pinion must come back more like I've read from other people. I'll get everything measured up and then when I take the driveshaft off to put the new u-joints in I will go get it shortened.
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Unread 11-10-2011, 09:02 AM   #49
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So according to my totally professional drafting blueprint, I think that being SUA the driveshaft will get longer on compression. So I need to measure for getting the driveshaft shortened to not bottom out on the slip yoke at full droop.

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Unread 11-11-2011, 12:16 AM   #50
bill8bud
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I had to remove 1 inch from my drive shaft to get it correct. My housing may be a little different since mine came out of an XJ.
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Unread 11-11-2011, 08:32 AM   #51
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Yeah good point, the axle tubes are bigger on the JK, not sure about the actual housing. I think that the pinion/yoke/carrier is interchangable between the JK and XJ D44's, so the depth might be the same?

Also I have a transfer case drop that is probably permanent because the nutserts were rotted out, and there was some welding needed. So sitting in the normal position, the diff pinion is only a few inches lower than the xfer case shaft, and the xfer case shaft is almost pointed directly at the rear diff, just a little high. So the slip yoke didn't have much shaft left to compress with the D35 on, and the D44 pinion is even closer.

I have even considered going SOA in the rear only with stock YJ leafs, to get more clearance and lift. But then you have the axle wrap issue to think about.
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Unread 11-26-2011, 05:45 PM   #52
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Crawled under the Jeep this afternoon to take stock, and decided it was time to weld the spring perches. For some reason I was looking for some other job to do, I think that I was kind of freaked out by that part. The axle is lined up left-right, the pinion angle is just south of straight at the output shaft of the transfer case. I was hung up on whether to get rid of the degree shims. But my u-bolts are sized for the shims, and if I get rid of them the u-bolts will be too long and not have enough thread. And I've already marred up the u-bolts with my flap disk.

So I measured one more time with all the jackstands out and tack-welded the perches with my ugly 7014 rod welds. I used 2 rods per side. I am leaving the shock brackets till later because I am moving the brackets to the back of the axle housing, and the shocks don't have enough compression to move them over with the axle on. Then I jacked the Jeep back up and unbolted the u-bolts to move the axle out so I could start finish welds.

I didn't get the Jeep high enough for the big D44 pumpkin to fit under the gas tank, so I rotated the pinion down so it would fit, but dumped a bunch of gear oil because the yoke is off. So I decided to put the new pinion yoke on to keep the oil from running everywhere.

Well my 2-4-7631-1 pinion yoke don't fit neither, the pinion on the JK 44 is 24-spline, not 26 like I thought. I put a drain pan under the diff and pointed it down, and took the drain plug out of the diff cover.

I put the muffler on and started it the other day and let it run until the thermostat opened. It sounded good
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Unread 11-26-2011, 06:02 PM   #53
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The pinion is pointed straight down


Harbor Freight stick welder FTW

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Unread 11-27-2011, 07:29 PM   #54
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Did a lot of welding. I was able to use 6013 rod and it got some penetration. I would feel better about one more pass on the driver's side outside weld. Also put some weld in the where the axle tube is pressed into the housing. Next session I'll rotate it the other way and finish welding the tubes, and prep to test fit the shock mounts. Feels good to see the brackets ready to mount up

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Unread 11-28-2011, 12:52 PM   #55
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Making my hands sweaty waiting for the final product..
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Unread 11-28-2011, 09:36 PM   #56
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Posted on pirate for part number help to hook up the driveshaft.
Pirate thread
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Unread 11-28-2011, 10:59 PM   #57
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I can not wait to see this one completed. Keep it up!
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Unread 12-08-2011, 08:16 PM   #58
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So I shipped the pinion yoke back to 4WheelDrive Hardware, and ordered the 3rd pinion yoke. Hope it's the charm! This one is for JK's to convert to 1310 u-joint, it was a Teraflex and 24 spline.

It was almost $100(!?) and the Spicer ones have been about $40, but I've already bought the wrong ones twice so screw it. 4wd has free shipping over like $60 and had 20% off today for the 12 crazy days of Christmas, so it's only twice as expensive as the Spicers...

It's for 1310 u-joints and I think the YJ driveshaft is 1330. I'll test next time I go work on the Jeep, probably Saturday. If the driveshaft is 1330 then I'll have to take one of the new 1310 u-joints back for a 1310/1330 combo u-joint.

Good thing I'm not in a hurry. Actually I'm still pretty impatient but when I make small accomplishments it helps. The Avalanche is a great truck and my DD, but I'm ready to roll that YJ out of the garage!
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Unread 12-09-2011, 12:09 AM   #59
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I hope you get through this hurtle. You will love it when it is done.
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Unread 12-09-2011, 12:43 AM   #60
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nice tags
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