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Unread 12-09-2010, 09:19 PM   #16
southbound
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Which plates are you talking about? The ones on the liftgate? Or the ones bolted to the hardtop itself? Either way it will be near impossible to find them online (unless someone throws a set on eBay).

Either set of plates could be made from some stock steel plate like I mentioned in the write-up. However, the ones that mount to the hardtop would require a 90* bend on the one side where the ball studs bolt on them. They wouldn't be hard to make if you had access to a decent machine shop.

If you don't have the tools. I would go by a local machine shop and show them what you need (even print off a picture of the ones I have on here) and let them take measurements of your three mounting holes so they get it right. I can measure mine if you need (to give you some rough dimensions of their original size). A good machinist can make anything .

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Unread 12-09-2010, 11:40 PM   #17
The1AndOnlyBug
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Definitely needs to be stickied in the FAQ and write ups great job!
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Unread 12-10-2010, 05:45 AM   #18
grandboost98
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wow, that is a professional restoration right there.
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Unread 12-10-2010, 06:03 AM   #19
94yjay
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I've seen the vinyl tint at Pep Boys, Auto Zone and Advance Auto, so pretty much any parts house that has tint should have the vinyl stuff too.
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Unread 12-10-2010, 11:08 AM   #20
joshisme
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I don't have either side! Weak. I'm sure i could drive and find some sort of machine shop to do it, or try to fab something up myself... I vote sticky also, lots of pictures and very informative!

EDIT: Hey OP, do you think you could add a few pictures of how the gas shocks mount? I may try to fabricate something up myself. Thanks
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Unread 12-10-2010, 11:26 AM   #21
vanwyk4257
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Wow, that's a nice job. I just rolled some paint on the outside and installed it with new seals on mine. One thing I plan on doing is getting some 1.5x1/4" aluminum stock to make bars to hold the top down to the tub instead of using fenderwashers which is what I have now. I think that will help spread the load better and avoid cracking the lip, one of which was already cracked on my top.
I'm curious if the liner on the inside helps with noise? I know you just went from a soft to a hardtop, but anyone else with input would be great.
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Unread 12-10-2010, 09:19 PM   #22
southbound
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vanwyk4257 View Post
One thing I plan on doing is getting some 1.5x1/4" aluminum stock to make bars to hold the top down to the tub instead of using fenderwashers which is what I have now.
I thought about doing this as well. I bought the aluminum stock from Lowes. I just have to cut it to length and drill the holes for the four bolts in each. Hopefully I can get around to doing this when I have some time off over Christmas.


Quote:
Originally Posted by vanwyk4257 View Post
I'm curious if the liner on the inside helps with noise? I know you just went from a soft to a hardtop, but anyone else with input would be great.
I'm not sure how much of a difference it really makes. Going from a soft top to a hardtop is like night and day in terms of road noise and heat retention. My hardtop wasn't sealed properly before I took it off to fix it up, so I really can't compare a non-lined properly installed hardtop with a Monstalined one. Maybe some of the other guys on here can chime in. I know others have used similar products to line the inside of their hardtops.

I mainly lined mine for the look and the durability over time. And the cool factor. It looks so much better blacked out on the inside. It changes the look of the interior so much. The white was just annoying to me. Way too bright.


Quote:
Originally Posted by joshisme View Post
I don't have either side! Weak. I'm sure i could drive and find some sort of machine shop to do it, or try to fab something up myself... I vote sticky also, lots of pictures and very informative!

EDIT: Hey OP, do you think you could add a few pictures of how the gas shocks mount? I may try to fabricate something up myself. Thanks
I'll be out of town for a week, so I will get to it when I get back. Remind me if I forget. I'll snap some pictures and post up a couple of rough sketches showing how they mount up. I wish I would have done this during the resto, but it slipped my mind. It's really simple, but seeing it (and the shape of all the brackets) will make it easy to understand.
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Unread 01-29-2011, 12:32 PM   #23
JEEP_Nut1218
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Wow. I was planning on doing almost exactly the same thing to my hardtop in the spring/summer (+/- colors). Thanks for the great write-up!
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Unread 01-29-2011, 03:50 PM   #24
GaJeepy
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Looks great. I've been wanting to paint my hardtop, after seeing this I can't wait.
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Unread 08-10-2011, 05:58 PM   #25
southbound
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I finally got around to having some new gas shock plates fabricated for the liftgate. Here are some shots of the lower fiberglass support that the plates bolt to. I did a quick sketch in paint to illustrate where they both fit (once they're bolted down).

(I'm having some issues uploading these two photos, so I'll get them up soon.)

I found a very professional machinist online that did a great job on the plates (as they are impossible to find new and are a discontinued part). The new shock plates were cut out of 1/4" steel (twice the OEM thickness). This should keep them from warping over time. I took my time and sprayed down two coats of Valspar primer and three of their Flat Black paint. I also replaced all the decayed original hardware with some of the stainless variety. This should keep the rust monster away.

nplates1-medium-.jpg
nplates2-medium-.jpg
nplates3-medium-.jpg

Although the two back plates are threaded, I still torqued down a a nylon lock nut on the back of each bolt to make sure they never loosen up on their own. A little bit of blue Threadlocker was put on the bolts as well. The back plate bolted up:

nplates5-medium-.jpg

And the larger, front plate:

nplates4-medium-.jpg

I'll post up a a couple pictures of everything bolted onto the liftgate next week when I get some time to snap some photos. The new shocks are crisp and the hatch opens like a champ now (and it looks great too..).
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Unread 04-03-2012, 01:35 PM   #26
LuisJEEPERO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by southbound View Post
I finally got around to having some new gas shock plates fabricated for the liftgate. Here are some shots of the lower fiberglass support that the plates bolt to. I did a quick sketch in paint to illustrate where they both fit (once they're bolted down).

(I'm having some issues uploading these two photos, so I'll get them up soon.)

I found a very professional machinist online that did a great job on the plates (as they are impossible to find new and are a discontinued part). The new shock plates were cut out of 1/4" steel (twice the OEM thickness). This should keep them from warping over time. I took my time and sprayed down two coats of Valspar primer and three of their Flat Black paint. I also replaced all the decayed original hardware with some of the stainless variety. This should keep the rust monster away.


Pana can you send me by mail the dimension of those pieces? so I can make them? I appreciate your help.

Attachment 265474
Attachment 265475
Attachment 265476

Although the two back plates are threaded, I still torqued down a a nylon lock nut on the back of each bolt to make sure they never loosen up on their own. A little bit of blue Threadlocker was put on the bolts as well. The back plate bolted up:

Attachment 265478

And the larger, front plate:

Attachment 265477

I'll post up a a couple pictures of everything bolted onto the liftgate next week when I get some time to snap some photos. The new shocks are crisp and the hatch opens like a champ now (and it looks great too..).


Pana can you send me by mail the dimension of those pieces? so I can make it... I appreciate a lot your help.

Luis From Venezuela.
Lfajardo18@gmail.com
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Unread 04-11-2012, 03:34 PM   #27
stcarter44
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Came out awesome! I wanna do the same thing to mine but go from tan to black.. For the metal header bar what kinda tool is it to remove the part that's attaching it to the hardtop itself.. I couldn't figure it out
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Unread 09-22-2012, 03:24 AM   #28
southbound
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stcarter44 View Post
Came out awesome! I wanna do the same thing to mine but go from tan to black.. For the metal header bar what kinda tool is it to remove the part that's attaching it to the hardtop itself.. I couldn't figure it out
Sorry for the late reply. I sadly do not visit JF as much as I used to.

As for the header bar, you will need to drill out the aluminum rivets that hold it to the fiberglass lip on the front of the hardtop. I would say a 1/4" drill bit shot do the job just fine. Make sure it's centered and drill the rivet for a split second at a time. You want to go deep enough to remove the head of the rivet, but not too deep or you'll chew up the fiberglass. After the first couple rivets you'll get the hang of it. There are plenty of how to videos on Youtube detailing this process.
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Unread 09-22-2012, 03:27 AM   #29
southbound
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LuisJEEPERO View Post
Pana can you send me by mail the dimension of those pieces? so I can make it... I appreciate a lot your help.

Luis From Venezuela.
Lfajardo18@gmail.com

I do not have the dimensions and I'm currently deployed overseas, so I cannot measure anything at the moment. Would you happen to have the old plates? Mine were pretty decayed, but I managed to clean them up enough so the machinist was able to get some fairly accurate measurements. The plates he made fit perfect and were a lot beefier (1/4" plate steel).

If you have the plates I can PM you his contact info. He is a very accomplished machinist in the paintball community and he did an excellent job with the parts I needed.
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Unread 09-22-2012, 03:42 AM   #30
southbound
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The1AndOnlyBug View Post
Definitely needs to be stickied in the FAQ and write ups great job!
I PM'd a couple of the YJ forum admins and asked them to sticky it, but it never happened. Maybe if some more people send in requests it might get posted there.

Also, a couple of updates:

I found a set of the OEM aluminum plates that go underneath the four tub mount bolts on each side. They look great and do a pretty good job of distributing the load. And at $20 shipped, they were a pretty good snag off eBay.

The header bar that I repaired with washers failed after a few months. The washers separated from the metal and cracked off. I went to a local sheet metal fabrication shop and a tech there made me a new header bar that looked identical to the OEM piece. It even had the little "S" bend curve in it to match the curve of the windshield. I locked the bar in my vice and very, very gently worked the slight bend in it and then drilled the mounting holes. It fit perfectly and cost me $30. This is the best option if your header bar is rusted out or warped - as this part is also discontinued.

If anyone wants some pictures of these two updates post a request here and I'll be sure to update the thread when I get home.
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