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Unread 02-07-2013, 04:55 PM   #1
JCashen
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1990 YJ Wrangler 
 
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Location: Fort Worth, Texas
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jeep wont start

I have a 90 4.2l stock carter (weber 38 on its way) nuttered. I bought a new distributor with the larger advance head, swapped it it the 18r slot and installed lighter springs. I also bought the team rush upgrade as well. I installed the distrbutor by finding tdc on cylinder 1. Then everything else. It would crank but not start. I rehooked all the stock stuff back up and same thing cranked but no start.

I hooked my timing light up to every plug wire on the cap and none of them turn the light on while cranking. I also added a new ground.

I haven't regapped my plugs yet. Also I was running nuttered for a month before this mod.

Any advice you guys have would be much appreciated.

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Unread 02-07-2013, 05:50 PM   #2
fourbtgait
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Are you getting power from the coil to dizzy?
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Unread 02-07-2013, 06:13 PM   #3
JCashen
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fourbtgait View Post
Are you getting power from the coil to dizzy?
Is hooking a timing light up to that plug from the coil to distributor not correct? If not what is the easiest way to check that?
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Unread 02-07-2013, 06:44 PM   #4
fourbtgait
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JCashen

Is hooking a timing light up to that plug from the coil to distributor not correct? If not what is the easiest way to check that?
Hmmm, never tried that, using a timing light on the wire from coil to dizzy. Always just pulled it off the dizzy and grounded it to block for a spark test.
Just thinking of tracing back from spark plug wires till you find power. If no power from coil, then its either the coil or the wires feeding the coil. Have you tested the coil and/or leads to it?

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Unread 02-07-2013, 06:50 PM   #5
JCashen
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fourbtgait View Post
Hmmm, never tried that, using a timing light on the wire from coil to dizzy. Always just pulled it off the dizzy and grounded it to block for a spark test.
Just thinking of tracing back from spark plug wires till you find power. If no power from coil, then its either the coil or the wires feeding the coil. Have you tested the coil and/or leads to it?

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I tried it on all the wires off the distributor and none of them made it light up. I was probably wrong to assume that would work.

Does the plug wire from the distributor need to be a male connector? Reason I ask is the wires I have for the team rush upgrade have female connectors all the way up in the boot. If that is the case should I find my old wire and try it?
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Unread 02-07-2013, 07:35 PM   #6
JCashen
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Would going to a MSD CDI module get rid of the ICM? Also if I do buy one will it get rid of the Ignition Coil too? and hopefully fix my problem?

Is there a lot to installing a CDI module?
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Unread 02-07-2013, 07:40 PM   #7
fourbtgait
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JCashen

I tried it on all the wires off the distributor and none of them made it light up. I was probably wrong to assume that would work.

Does the plug wire from the distributor need to be a male connector? Reason I ask is the wires I have for the team rush upgrade have female connectors all the way up in the boot. If that is the case should I find my old wire and try it?
I would need pictures to make sure of what you mean depending on wires/connectors.

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Unread 02-07-2013, 07:45 PM   #8
fourbtgait
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JCashen
Would going to a MSD CDI module get rid of the ICM? Also if I do buy one will it get rid of the Ignition Coil too? and hopefully fix my problem?

Is there a lot to installing a CDI module?
Lol, it depends. I am just now setting up to install a msd6al to my 83 cj. Same engine as yours.
Yes, the msd gets rid of your duraspark icm box.
But it will not replace your coil.
When i did TR i installed a msd blaster coil, i had trouble with TR because of dizzy rotor phasing.
You need to work back from spark plugs till you find where you do have power. It could be your coil, a bad wire connection at the coil, your icm may be bad.
But you need to test parts going backwards till you find power.
Do you have a FSM? Wireing diagrams?

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Unread 02-07-2013, 07:48 PM   #9
JCashen
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fourbtgait View Post
Lol, it depends. I am just now setting up to install a msd6al to my 83 cj. Same engine as yours.
Yes, the msd gets rid of your duraspark icm box.
But it will not replace your coil.
When i did TR i installed a msd blaster coil, i had trouble with TR because of dizzy rotor phasing.
You need to work back from spark plugs till you find where you do have power. It could be your coil, a bad wire connection at the coil, your icm may be bad.
But you need to test parts going backwards till you find power.
Do you have a FSM? Wireing diagrams?

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Chiltons Manual. Pretty sure I have a OHMs / Volt meter but never used one.
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Unread 02-07-2013, 08:06 PM   #10
fourbtgait
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JCashen

Chiltons Manual. Pretty sure I have a OHMs / Volt meter but never used one.
Ok.
Mine is 83 cj, 4.2. I am not sure what changed, maybe someone else can comment, part of this is from memory as cj is not beside me.
On mine....
Violet, orange, black from the icm feed the dizzy.
Green feeds the coil.

The coil gets power from a resister wire tied into the red feeding the icm, mine is a 1.35 resister wire.

So the coil has red to positive, green to negative on the coil.
Or red with a tracer?

Disconnect the wires from your coil, check ohms with clip on +, the other on -, my coil should read 1.13 to 1.23 ohms at 75 degrees air temp.
Then test center tower of coil to either the +/-, my ohms should be 7,700 to 9,300.
If either is off, coil is bad.
Also like i said you can ground main coil lead to block, if it sparks, coil works.

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Unread 02-07-2013, 08:09 PM   #11
fourbtgait
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You might google "testing coil ohms on 90 jeep 4.2" to find if ohms are different.

Also google for a fsm for your year. I found mine as a pdf at Tom Collins Jeep

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Unread 02-07-2013, 08:19 PM   #12
JCashen
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fourbtgait View Post
Ok.
Mine is 83 cj, 4.2. I am not sure what changed, maybe someone else can comment, part of this is from memory as cj is not beside me.
On mine....
Violet, orange, black from the icm feed the dizzy.
Green feeds the coil.

The coil gets power from a resister wire tied into the red feeding the icm, mine is a 1.35 resister wire.

So the coil has red to positive, green to negative on the coil.
Or red with a tracer?

Disconnect the wires from your coil, check ohms with clip on +, the other on -, my coil should read 1.13 to 1.23 ohms at 75 degrees air temp.
Then test center tower of coil to either the +/-, my ohms should be 7,700 to 9,300.
If either is off, coil is bad.
Also like i said you can ground main coil lead to block, if it sparks, coil works.

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I pulled the horseshoe connector off the coil. Key set to on it read 12v of DC. This multimeter looks higher tech and doesn't say ohms anywhere on it. Just a bunch of a's with solid or swiggly lines, horse shoe type looking character or v's with the same lines as the a's.

When you say disconnect wires from the coil do you mean the horse shoe connector and the distributor wire?
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Unread 02-07-2013, 08:31 PM   #13
fourbtgait
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Yes, just disconnect and isolate it.
Least we know you have power to it if the positive wire reads 12v with key on.

The multimeter should have a dial in center to set it to various things.
The one with an upside down horseshoe is ohms.
It should be able to read different levels of ohms, 200, 2k, 200k, maybe 200m.
So if you are reading less than 2,000 ohms, its set on 2k, etc

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Unread 02-07-2013, 08:36 PM   #14
JCashen
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Also could the distributor be causing the problems? I swapped the advance head to 18R and put lighter springs on. I luckily didn't loose the reluctor pin, but forgot to mark where exactly it went and how far down the reluctor is suppose to be (I lined it up with the rectangle in the black thing attached to the vacuum advance magnet thing.) sorry for the poor explanation. Then when looking for TDC of the compression stroke I stuck a straw in cylinder 1 and hand cranked it until the straw raised. Once it did I removed the straw and put my finger over the hole. Rotating 2 times to feel each stroke. I chose the one that had the most compression and kept rotating until I went back it it. My harmonic balancer mark also lined up at 0 TDC. Then when I got the distributor all the way seated I had it so that the rotor is slightly before the #1 cylinder on the Distributor Cap. Plugged in all wires using firing order 1-5-3-6-2-4.
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Unread 02-07-2013, 08:38 PM   #15
JCashen
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fourbtgait View Post
Yes, just disconnect and isolate it.
Least we know you have power to it if the positive wire reads 12v with key on.

The multimeter should have a dial in center to set it to various things.
The one with an upside down horseshoe is ohms.
It should be able to read different levels of ohms, 200, 2k, 200k, maybe 200m.
So if you are reading less than 2,000 ohms, its set on 2k, etc

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and I am connecting it to both the posts where the horseshoe connector was?

Does the power to the horse shoe mean the ICM is not bad?
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