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Unread 10-26-2008, 08:08 PM   #1
johnrezz
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1989 YJ Wrangler 
 
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Jeep will not run after new carb and distributor, PICS

Ok I have posted several times on this but now I have everything installed on my 98 jeep yj 4.2L 258. but I am not having any luck getting it to fire.... My first guess is that I have the timing off. I do have fuel flow, it took awhile and a mouth full of gas but it is pumping.
I will explaine both the carb and the dist in pictures below.

This is a new engine to me, it has about 35000 miles on it.
I installed a new:
Weber 32/36
CRT Performance HEI Distributor
New exhaust manifold and new Valve cover

Carb install specs:
I installed the vacume lines per the diagram on the 32/36 sticky
Vacume advance:
I came off of the CTO valve in two places with a T like shown in the diagram from there I went to another T one into the carb vac port on the right side in the picture and than to the vacume advance on the carb
PCV:
off of the valve in the spacer below the carb to the PCV valve and than down to the charcoal canister
CTO:
straight to canister
EGR:
from CTO to EGR valve (i do not have and EGR tube so I plugged the hole with a bolt until I can get one)

Hose to the right is fuel
hose to the lower left with T is the vac advance
hose on the top left is carb vent directly to canister as well



Distributor (CRT Performance HEI)

This engine had the distributor removed when I got it so I had to find TDC on my own. I put my finger over the 1st cyl spark plug hole and turned the engine until I felt the air. When I checked the timing the line was at 0 TDC. I would assume this means I found the TDC of the 1st cyl.

from there I installed the dist with the vacume advance facing the passanger fender, took off the cap and marked the first point based on the rotar button. installed the wires 153624. I do get a spark.

so I get nothing....... it turns and I hear a carb pop every 10 seconds or so and a little bump but nothing that sounds like it is going to fire. I even tried turning the dist 180 Deg out but still nothing. The plugs are flat black not wet.

any ideas where to start???



Last edited by johnrezz; 10-26-2008 at 08:41 PM..
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Unread 10-26-2008, 09:28 PM   #2
johnrezz
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Should I have to turn the dist while trying to start the jeep???? how far out does it need to be to not allow it to start?

anyone have any advice?

Last edited by johnrezz; 10-26-2008 at 10:12 PM..
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Unread 10-26-2008, 09:58 PM   #3
johnrezz
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Help!!!!

Someone on here has got to be the expert I need..........
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Unread 10-26-2008, 10:06 PM   #4
mtn_wrangler
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i would try turning the disty while trying to start it. then find the spot where it starts to kick. and work from there
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Unread 10-26-2008, 11:24 PM   #5
themonkeyman
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ON a side note, you do realize that you have no Tach wire runnin from the Distributor... right? (not that it would effect starting, just tryin to help)
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Unread 10-26-2008, 11:26 PM   #6
johnrezz
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Weber 32/36 vacume lines picture

Have I done this right???

The one that i really question is the PCV vacume lines, I went from the valve under the carb on the spacers to the PCV valve and than directly to the charcoal canister.

Pictures are worth a thousand words:
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Unread 10-26-2008, 11:27 PM   #7
Contra
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if you have no spark

open the dist. again
sound like you didnt seat the rotor correctly
or possibly even the cap
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Unread 10-26-2008, 11:31 PM   #8
johnrezz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by themonkeyman View Post
ON a side note, you do realize that you have no Tach wire runnin from the Distributor... right? (not that it would effect starting, just tryin to help)
I was going to wait until the engine was running before I figured that out. I have to find the tach wire on the old harness.

The CRT HEI has a wire that goes to the tach that came with it, it goes next to the pink one.

More info on this would be great..

Thanks, I appreciate any help at this point.....
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Unread 10-26-2008, 11:38 PM   #9
johnrezz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Contra View Post
if you have no spark

open the dist. again
sound like you didnt seat the rotor correctly
or possibly even the cap
I do have a spark and I believe I am set correct to TDC on #1
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Unread 10-26-2008, 11:44 PM   #10
Contra
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when it cranks, is it an easy crank, or hard crank?

if hard then the timming is off bad, if easy then you should be ok, but re-seat all the spark plugs
and try again
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Unread 10-26-2008, 11:49 PM   #11
Alabamaranger
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On the air coming out on number one, remember you will get that 2 times. One on compression and one on the exhaust stroke. Make sure that you get a suction first than a compression. You could have stab the dist on the compression stroke.
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Unread 10-27-2008, 05:43 AM   #12
ctm
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x2 alabama , I think you are 180 off
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Unread 10-27-2008, 07:30 AM   #13
demo44
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He said in another post he switched the distriburor 180*. I think maybe the dist needs turned some while trying to start. Maybe its just not close enough were you have it1
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Unread 10-27-2008, 08:16 AM   #14
johnrezz
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It is not hard to turn, I pulled the plugs and re-gapped per the spec around .045-.050, I am going to make sure I am on TDC and try turning the dist while having someone else crank it, I was by myself last night so it wsa hard to do....
can someone tell me if I have the vacumes hooked up right per the labeled photo above??
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Unread 10-27-2008, 02:37 PM   #15
ElvisV04290
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Right off the bat I can tell you that you have your advance for the distributor hooked up wrong, but it's an easy mistake when you look at the diagram. You need to connect it to the port that is listed as "EGR" and cap the "vacuum advance" port. It may not make sense now but I will explain it below the image if you would like to know why.



The Weber 32/36 is commonly used as an upgrade on British made MG cars with carburated engines which use Manifold vacuum (starts out high at idle and decreases as engine RPM increases) to alter the speed of the distribution and "advance" it. While most American engines (including the AMC 4.2) use Ported vacuum (starts out at near zero at idle and is highest at WOT) to advance the timing. This should not prevent the engine from running, but once it is it will increase the performance of the engine once it is running.


On another note it is hard to tell if you have your electric choke hooked up from the picture you posted.
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Weber 32/36 Install -> http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/weber-32-36-install-write-up-382309/
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For anyone with a 4.2L --> http://groups.jeepforum.com/258s_Unite
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