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Unread 10-17-2007, 07:21 AM   #76
jeepwrnglr92
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Well it is still overheating. I took some time off since i was so fustraited.

I am working on bumpers now. I will try the heater core bypas may be this weekend and post back.

Thanx.

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Unread 10-17-2007, 10:48 AM   #77
bamato
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I'm telling you dude, you probably have a ton of goo in your block. When you pulled the water pump off, how did the water jacket look? Was it rusty? Any goo or coagulated coolant? Any scales of some sort? What type of mixture are you running? I agree that you should try the cheap stuff first, but cheap stuff adds up. Trust me, I was in the EXACT situation recently. It's frightening how similar your jeep is behaving as mine was. Have you run a leakdown test? Also, I "sniffed" my block. That's how I found out there was a crack in the block/head. You can buy the sniff kit at napa for 50 bucks. I highly recommend it.
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Unread 10-17-2007, 01:03 PM   #78
jeepwrnglr92
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bamato
I'm telling you dude, you probably have a ton of goo in your block. When you pulled the water pump off, how did the water jacket look? Was it rusty? Any goo or coagulated coolant? Any scales of some sort? What type of mixture are you running? I agree that you should try the cheap stuff first, but cheap stuff adds up. Trust me, I was in the EXACT situation recently. It's frightening how similar your jeep is behaving as mine was. Have you run a leakdown test? Also, I "sniffed" my block. That's how I found out there was a crack in the block/head. You can buy the sniff kit at napa for 50 bucks. I highly recommend it.

PO was running just water when I got it. It was fine then started to act up after I back flusehd it. Or so I think. It was cool out when I bought the Heep and it did nto overheat so not sure. PO says never over heated yada yada.. He is a friend fo mine so I dont think he would lie to me about this as we still hang out.

I did not pull the pump mechanic did so I dont know the condition. I can say this when I flused it is was dirty water and I let it run clear. Flushed it again when I put the new rad in and flushed clear.

I am running a 50/50 mix.

What is a leakdown test? Sniff the block?

I dont sniff anything we have drug testing at work,
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Unread 10-17-2007, 01:16 PM   #79
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I think your getting somewhere now. Do the bypass as it only takes a little time. If PO ran water, I would not be surprised the heater core might be totally clogged. An easier way to do the by pass is to get a two foot heater hose and just connect it at the thermostat housing input and output. This will tell you quickly which way to go. If she still overheats, I hope it doesn't, your looking at a proper head job.

Previous poster was referring to a diagnostic tool. Many shops have these gas detectors. You stick the probe over the open radiator cap and run the engine up to temp. The probe will detect emissions gases in the radiator fluid; a sure indicator of a bad head gasket or a cracked head.
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Unread 10-17-2007, 01:24 PM   #80
jeepwrnglr92
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NJeepyj91
I think your getting somewhere now. Do the bypass as it only takes a little time. If PO ran water, I would not be surprised the heater core might be totally clogged. An easier way to do the by pass is to get a two foot heater hose and just connect it at the thermostat housing input and output. This will tell you quickly which way to go. If she still overheats, I hope it doesn't, your looking at a proper head job.

Previous poster was referring to a diagnostic tool. Many shops have these gas detectors. You stick the probe over the open radiator cap and run the engine up to temp. The probe will detect emissions gases in the radiator fluid; a sure indicator of a bad head gasket or a cracked head.
Thanx for the hinfo. Mechanic siad before we did the head (see previous post) that there was exhaust in the coolant. Thats why we did the head. Not sure if he retested it or not. Ill call them and find out. No tested after the fact. Head was slighltly warped and machined.
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Unread 10-17-2007, 01:49 PM   #81
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Is there a bleed screw on the top of the block for the cooling system.
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Unread 10-18-2007, 05:28 AM   #82
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Ok i called a few Napas for this test kit and they were all out. PBoya and Bennett dotn carry it.

I spoke to the mechanic and he said he matched up the head gasket from the old one. He didnot that some time early in the life of the Jeep it did have th head removed as there were no dowle pins in it. I know my buddy did nto remvoe it so I am assuming it was done at the DLR by the other owner as I am the 3rd owner. SO I don think we have the wrong gasket as it was not overheating until I go it.

I took some fluid out and will take ti to my mechanic to have it tested. he said he could do that for me. so Ill get back in a a day or so with the report.

I plan on doing the heatercore bypas tomorrow and see what happens.
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Unread 10-19-2007, 03:51 AM   #83
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You need to tell us how hot its runnung. Pull the thermostat, and run it with and without cooant and once with just water. Never dry...Duh. If the head was cooked in a vat of oil and sand to clean it up the journels could be getting hot cause its packed with sand in the water jacket. If its cracked theres a no brainer. Do you have a thermometer. When you turn on the heater does it cool off. Did you find the blead for the coolant to get rid of all the air bubbles. Belts and pullies havent been reduced. Did you have the raidator recored? Try putting a fan on the bumper to see if it cools. You may have a pinched gasket keepilg water out of the water journel or excessive gasket glue. Man I know this stuff is a pain but I wish you the best luck . Stuff has happened to me and its easy to looose sight. Just get the mechanism on the problem and do your best. Hang in there so you do not get frusterated asnd blow it up. Are you Carb or Injected. Does it chug . Dave
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Unread 10-19-2007, 04:18 AM   #84
jeepwrnglr92
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David Richards
You need to tell us how hot its runnung. Pull the thermostat, and run it with and without cooant and once with just water. Never dry...Duh. If the head was cooked in a vat of oil and sand to clean it up the journels could be getting hot cause its packed with sand in the water jacket. If its cracked theres a no brainer. Do you have a thermometer. When you turn on the heater does it cool off. Did you find the blead for the coolant to get rid of all the air bubbles. Belts and pullies havent been reduced. Did you have the raidator recored? Try putting a fan on the bumper to see if it cools. You may have a pinched gasket keepilg water out of the water journel or excessive gasket glue. Man I know this stuff is a pain but I wish you the best luck . Stuff has happened to me and its easy to looose sight. Just get the mechanism on the problem and do your best. Hang in there so you do not get frusterated asnd blow it up. Are you Carb or Injected. Does it chug . Dave
Well ti goes past 250 with coolant or just H2O. As for the head no crack. How it was cleaned I was told it was baked not sane blasted. Thats all I know.


Jeep dos not cool off with heater on but does seem not to climb as fast.

Factory pullies/belts etc. New radiator see previous post. the old one was pulld and the tanks were pulled off no blockage so I wasted $200 on a rad.

Jeep is a 92 with the 4.0, injected.

It idles fine and runs great. Just hot.
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Unread 10-19-2007, 10:26 AM   #85
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Ok here the latest update. I bypassed the heater core and it seem to run at or around 210 going down the road.. I came home and let it idle in the driveway and it went back up to 260.
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Unread 10-19-2007, 11:34 AM   #86
NJeepyj91
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You might not be in as bad a shape as some of us thought. Get a new clutch fan.

Your test indicates to me that the fan is not doing its job.
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Unread 10-19-2007, 12:11 PM   #87
bamato
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Didn't he already replace the fan clutch once?

The fact that the PO was running straight water is really bad. Not only does just water not cool as well, but water is in no way a lubricant, which your cooling system needs to run properly. AND, coolant acts as a detergent in your system as well and helps keep the water jacket clean and free flowing. I know you have an IR temp gun, did you shoot different parts of the engine to check for hotspots? You could cut the old radiator in half and look at the condition of the water passages, if they are scaley and clogged, there's a good chance the water jacket in your engines looks the same. If the mechanic did the head job correctly, and it was thoroughly cleaned, then the block should be the source of your heat. And if it's totally goo'd, the only way to clean it is to pull the motor and pop the freeze plugs out and clean it out by hand. And that's even a maybe, sometimes the metal is so beyond cleaning that it just needs to be replaced. Did the mechanic inspect the block of the engine as well for cracks?

Also, if the problem is still persisting after all this work the mechanic did, why isn't he warranting his work??
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Unread 10-19-2007, 12:58 PM   #88
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Good comments Bamato, for sure, but did he put a new clutch on or just replace with aftermarket fan?

Funny, one of my friends just blew up a maxima. He said his dad told him always to put water in the cooling system because anti-freeze was too expensive.
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Unread 10-19-2007, 05:12 PM   #89
jeepwrnglr92
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I did do a clutch fan and it did not help. Now I could have gotten a bad fan.
I tried an electric fan with the clutch fan and it still over heated.
The new thing today was to bypass the heater core.

As for the old rad the mechanic had the shop pull the tanks and clean it so that wont tell us anything now. But I did waste 200 on a new rad That stunk.

Remember I am still running a 180 tstat in it.

Any one got some TnT that fixes all.
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Unread 10-19-2007, 05:31 PM   #90
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I'm not giving up on ya. Humor me and with the key off and engine NOT running, spin the fan. It should turn freely. If there is a lot of resistence, something is wrong.

When the engine is idling or low RPM the clutch keeps the fan engaged so it can pull air over the radiator. At high rpm, it is not really needed, as you are pushing air over the radiator. Oil in some clutch fans and springs in others use centrifugal force to un-engage.

Drink two beers. All of the posters here have given you very excellent advice.

Lets recap.

Did it over heat when you bought it? If not,

You did a head job, then it overheated.

Clogged passageways in the head and block are the most likely scenerio. You have covered everything else.

Barrio is spot on. That block probably has lots of corrosion in it.

Don't give up
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