I changed the water pump, tstat fan belts, had the head done and the radiator flushed and tested.
What else could it be. THe stupid thing is still over heating.
New shroud and new fan/clutch Sorry left that out
EDITED TO INCLUDE MORE INFO:
Hi All,
I decided to clean this post up and be a little clearer on what has been done to the heap to this point.
Truck seemed to be running fin when I first bought it. But it was cooler in Jan.
I did the basics:
Plugs
Wirers
Oil/filter
Air filter
{Shock,Brakes,Tirers/rims} Yes no affect on cooling I know, just part of the list
Flushed the coolant (block and radiator ) with Prestone kit.
Hoses checked ok
Changed out tstat
Clutch fan
Flushed and pressure tested radiator
No coolant in oil
New water pump
Another new tstat
New belt
Pulled the fuel tank and replace bad hose to fuel pump
New radiator cap (x2)
Pulled head and had it rebuild and resurfaced Put in new seals, gaskets etc.
new fan shroud
Some of this I did some the mechanic did so I am going to check his work when it gets home.
Well my clutch fan has a spring it in not a fluid. So nto sure what you are talking about.
When I shut it down the fan stops right away and is "tight" to turn so I am assuming it is good. When it is cool it moves much more freely.
I have never used any "cleaner " in the block Just forward flushed it. Someone recomended doing a back flush on it. So I was going to try that. :dunno:
I would recommend going to a Minute-Lube type place and seeing if they do forward/back flushes.
Tell them you're having some headaches with overheating and ask them to flush the c$#p out of it in both directions until they see some gunk come out. :thumbsup:
I just noticed you're in FL. I'm in Tampa, but my parents still live in WPB. Drive your Jeep to their house and park it. Leave the keys with them. I'll pick it up later. Then go out buy another Jeep and start over. Problem solved.
OK, I'm just kidding... but I'll bet that's how you feel.
I would recommend going to a Minute-Lube type place and seeing if they do forward/back flushes.
Tell them you're having some headaches with overheating and ask them to flush the c$#p out of it in both directions until they see some gunk come out. :thumbsup:
I cannot even make it 4 miles to the HDW store never mind into town. So I will try to back flush on my own. See what happens. I bought soem fluid by prestoen and see what happens when I do that.
I just noticed you're in FL. I'm in Tampa, but my parents still live in WPB. Drive your Jeep to their house and park it. Leave the keys with them. I'll pick it up later. Then go out buy another Jeep and start over. Problem solved.
OK, I'm just kidding... but I'll bet that's how you feel.
Top pass side rad 179
top driver side rad 179
lower pass rad 168
lower driver rad 164
center rad 186
upper hose just before it goes into the rad 169
lower hose just after it comes out 171 (i double check it and it range from 168 to 171)
tstat housing where the temp gage sending unit is 209
upper heater hose 170
lower heater hose 166
heat coming out of heater 95
Does this help any one help me decipher it ? I am running pure H20 when i took the reading and a 180 tstat. I will change back to a 192 and coolant after i back flush.
Zounds like your temp gauge is unreliable. You can try a new sending unit on the back of the block - drivers side. 12.00 bucks at NAPA. If that works good. If not, you can clean up the contacts on your gauge cluster.
Your temp readings appear normal across the rad and the hoses.
I think someone told you to stick to 192 -195 degree thermostat. I think that is very good advice. In any event, things are looking up. It appears your gauge is not an accurate reading.
Well it is a bit cooler (70's) down here not too. But I did let it idle for quite awhile. and it did get up to over 220 but Ill see if ti can swap the tstat out and drive it for a while to see what happens. I may do the eclectic fan swap. The hood and grill still seem to be a bit not to the touch. I forgot to take those measurements. doh
:cheers: You're used to your other vehicles which have gauges that tell the truth. Stop relying on that factory gauge. The readings you took with the IR are consistent with a 180 degree thermostat.
Go with the 192. Work on your gauge cluster. IMHO, you're not overheating at all.
:cheers: You're used to your other vehicles which have gauges that tell the truth. Stop relying on that factory gauge. The readings you took with the IR are consistent with a 180 degree thermostat.
Go with the 192. Work on your gauge cluster. IMHO, you're not overheating at all.
Well I was going with my mechanic when he said he checked the gauge. guess not. It probably was overheating but now may not be.????? :dunno:
The truck and engine still seem very warm to me. :brickwall I did replace the sending unit and the readings were the same so i put the factory one back in.
When you say work on the cluster what do you mean? Dose not look like much to work on.
I sure hope i did not spend all that money for nothing. :brickwall my mechanic said the gauge was not that far off on temp reading according to his testing. So that is why i thought the gauge was OK.
It does keep creeping up.
What do I need to do to test the gauge to see if it is bad or not? It is unnerving seeing it climb and not knowing if my motor is going to blow up or not.
Digital Probe thermometer 23 bucks 50-300 degree. You have the IR. Go back to your mechanic and make him test it in front of you.
Yesterday I changed my anti-freeze and thermostat. I noticed a slight leak at the seam of my radiator at the top tank so I changd the rad and hoses too. I have a 195 degree thermostat. I took readings across the front of the rad and the thermo housing after a good warmup. I got 186 at top left, 150 to 155 at the bottom and 207 at the termostat cover. Meanwhile the new gauge read 195. (autometer)
Does anyone know where to get the gage and how much part # etc.
I did not get a chance to pull the dash out this weekend had to work yet another weekend. :brickwall
All I could get done was the testing with the IR.
I have replaced the sending unit in the past and guage still reads hot. Not sure how you test the factory guage to tell if it is bad. My manual did not say much on this.
My mechanic said he used an IR too on it so I dont know. Just glad it is not at his shop any more.
I'm not sure about this, and someone will probably know more than me, but won't it run hotter with straight water in the system? Especially after shutting it off and letting the water just dwell there? It seems like it will boil over much sooner with only water in the system. I would try putting 50/50 back in and running it again.
My mechanic gave me a test kit that he just got to see if there is a leak in the block. I will have to read up on how to use it and try this on Thursday.
The point of coolant is to raise the boiling point (or lower the freezing point) of the mixture. Water boils at 212*. If you have a 195* t-stat, you're cutting it kind of close.
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