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Unread 10-07-2007, 03:29 AM   #61
jeepwrnglr92
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NJeepyj91
You don't have to buy the Flow Kooler. I am pretty certain you need a reverse flowing water pump. And stop stressing that engine.
Right but who is to say I dont have the reverse flow pump. How do I tell without pulling the the thing out.?

Like I said parts store only have one listing for the engine that year. I guess I could look at one of theirs.

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Unread 10-07-2007, 06:25 AM   #62
jeepwrnglr92
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Right but who is to say I dont have the reverse flow pump. How do I tell without pulling the the thing out.?

Like I said parts store only have one listing for the engine that year. I guess I could look at one of theirs.

Does anyone have a picture of the belt routing? I cannot find one in the manual i bought.

I will take apicture of how it is routed now and post it shorlty

I have been up all night workin foor my job so beer (I wish) with me. These 48hrs days are killer
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Unread 10-07-2007, 06:48 AM   #63
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OK here is the pictures. I did not want tocludder the post up with a lot of them so here is one or 2 and th elink to the others.

http://s171.photobucket.com/albums/u...elt%20routing/

By the way to all that have posted I do appreciate all the advice and ideas.




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Unread 10-07-2007, 11:38 AM   #64
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Ok I took the tstat out and ran the jeep good flow on the uper hose. I pull off the hose at the rad top and water was pouring out. SO this tells me the pump is good.
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Unread 10-07-2007, 07:35 PM   #65
Angelous
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go a pic of the resevoir?(sp?) like I said a different style made a huge diff on my XJ
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Unread 10-07-2007, 09:47 PM   #66
Alabamaranger
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Oh

What is all the blue stuff on the rad.?
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Unread 10-08-2007, 04:38 AM   #67
jeepwrnglr92
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The reservoir is just a milky plastic bottle (yes it si the factory one) . I seem to be working just fine

As for the blue stuff dont worry about that I replaced the rad. This was the best shot of the belt routing. But it was some foam I used just to try to block air from going past the shroud before I bought the correct shroud.
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Unread 10-08-2007, 09:13 PM   #68
hdfxrs91
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OK, time to step back and see what's been happening...
You have replaced:
Radiator
T-stat
Belts
Hoses
Water pump
All these parts comprise the entire cooling system, yet you still have a problem.
To continue... you had the head rebuilt, which means that the passages should be clear.
By taking the upper hose off, you verified that the pump is turning in the right direction (water came out the hose and not the radiator, right?).
You have also done other work which may or may not have helped.
So what's left?
Mentioned on page 1, are you sure you put the head gasket on correctly?
Are the heater hoses routed correctly from the heater core to the engine and back?
Is the engine timed correctly?

I can't think of anything else. Anyone want to chime in?
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Unread 10-09-2007, 07:48 AM   #69
jeepwrnglr92
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"Mentioned on page 1, are you sure you put the head gasket on correctly?"

I can only go by what thge mechanic that did the work said. I was told it was doene right. So with out pulling the head myself I really dont know.

I did notice when I put the 180 tstat in it did not get hot as fast. It still overheated just took longer.

a friend at work says there is a gage i can put on the rad and it monitors preassure or something. I am trying to see if i can get aloner to check this out.

As for teh heater hoses yup they look right. They were not touched.
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Unread 10-09-2007, 06:48 PM   #70
hdfxrs91
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Another thing I forgot to say was what about the heater core itself? It is an integral part of the system and if it is clogged, the coolant can't get through. Maybe you can try to bypass it temporarily to see if it makes any difference. At this point, I would try anything.
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Unread 10-09-2007, 09:06 PM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepwrnglr92
As for teh heater hoses yup they look right. They were not touched.
If the head was replaced they were "touched" how about some fresh pics of the engine bay, waterpump etc...? maybe that will help?
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Unread 10-10-2007, 06:31 AM   #72
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OK I did nto want to flood thhis with pictures but here ya go. Also check the link in the first post for more.





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Unread 10-10-2007, 06:31 AM   #73
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Unread 10-16-2007, 08:33 PM   #74
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What's the word on this?
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Unread 10-17-2007, 06:09 AM   #75
NJeepyj91
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The engine bay looks correct. Bypass the heater core by getting a piece of 3/4 tubbing. Remove the hoses from the firewall and join them with the tubing and clamps. Run the engine and post back. If the thing still over heats, I'm with others who have stated the head job is incorrect. The heater core replacement is a PITA but cheaper than redoing the head unless the guy who did the work will stand behind it. I feel for you.
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