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Unread 10-03-2007, 12:19 PM   #31
jeepwrnglr92
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rustywrangler
I can get a serp. belt pump in both reverse and forward rotation. I do not know what one you need personally.

Well I called 3 stores and they only had a listing for a 92 4.0 and a serp belt pump. No reverse or fwd serp pump.

They only thing i can think of is to swap the radiator out. The one I have is "new" and past a test but who knows.

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Last edited by jeepwrnglr92; 10-03-2007 at 12:37 PM..
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Unread 10-03-2007, 01:40 PM   #32
Varnish
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If you run it from cold with the radiator cap off, can you see any fluid movement or does it bubble up or anything unusual?
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Unread 10-03-2007, 03:02 PM   #33
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Could the Coolant Temperature Sensor have anything to do with it? Heck, I don't know. There are about 453 different sensors on these engines that tell them when to start operating and when to shut off. 453 being an exageration of course.

Oh, forgot to mention also - I had a problem like this awhile back. Problem was that the mixture of coolant to water was to high (or was it to low), it was one of the two. I had to much coolant and to little water I think it was.
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Unread 10-03-2007, 03:24 PM   #34
kent l
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timing?

I had a car once that was retarted too much and caused it to overheat.
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Unread 10-03-2007, 04:51 PM   #35
jeepwrnglr92
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OK i got the heep back home. It ran hot all the way (12 or 15 mls) never cooled down. In the past with air moving over it it would cool down. Not this time. I ran 250 and I tested it with my IR and it showed cooler on the bottom but was reading "HI" off the scale on the top.
So how can I tell if the PO put in the right rad? Would there be a part # on this thing? May be I have a 4banger rad not the 6cyl one?

I talked to the shop about the timing thing as I did think of that. and they said it was all controlled by the computer

Is there a way to see if the computer is good?
The heep seems in time.

I asked them about the distributer and if it could be off a tooth and they said even if it was it would not get that hot that fast.

I was running the heater all the way home too and that did not get the temp down. Might have saved me from over heating but did not bring it down at all.
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Unread 10-03-2007, 06:11 PM   #36
ionakana
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do what varnish said, let it cool down, take the rad cap off and then start it. when it warms up check to see if the coolant is circulating. If it's not, it's a bad/wrong pump or t-stat.
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Unread 10-03-2007, 06:23 PM   #37
jeepwrnglr92
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Varnish
If you run it from cold with the radiator cap off, can you see any fluid movement or does it bubble up or anything unusual?

Ill have to check this Friday or over the weekend. no time to mess with it tonight.

dang getting dark early stuff stinks
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Unread 10-03-2007, 06:45 PM   #38
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OK this got the better of me and i ran the jeep for a few moments. It was a little low on water/coolant but the overflow was full so I know it di dnot leak out.

I watched it with the cap off and saw some movement but nothing big. the temp gage said 210

When i shut the jeep down the fan stopped right away so that makes me believe it is a good clutch as it stopped right away and did not spin.

Im gonna get a new t stat and gasket on Friday and see what happens with that. I am going to take the one I have and drop it in a pot of water and see how long it takes to open.
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Unread 10-03-2007, 07:48 PM   #39
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I had the very same problem a few months ago, did everything you did, short of the head. Checked the timing about 5 times, everything, to no avail, got disgusted and parked it for about a month, decided to drive it to work one day, and wow, no more problem, actually runs cooler than it did originally, got me???
still going just fine. I was thinking maybe it had an air pocket or something, but really don't know, I burped it numerous times as well. Good luck
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Unread 10-04-2007, 10:01 AM   #40
jeepwrnglr92
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Well it is a puzzler. I just wish I could have some fun with i. But as my friend said this is par tof the fun of owning a Jeep right

I think my level it to low when I work on it.
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Unread 10-04-2007, 10:24 AM   #41
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I had a similar problem with a Cutlass years ago. Finally fixed it by flushing the block with muratic acid, no crap. Turns out the block was so rusted it could not transfer heat efficiently. Just pour it in, let it fizz, and rinse it really good!
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Unread 10-04-2007, 05:06 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lturley
I had a similar problem with a Cutlass years ago. Finally fixed it by flushing the block with muratic acid, no crap. Turns out the block was so rusted it could not transfer heat efficiently. Just pour it in, let it fizz, and rinse it really good!

pour it in where the radiator ???
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Unread 10-04-2007, 06:14 PM   #43
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OK I bought a 180 and a 192 t stat today. I put them in a pan of water and made sure they open.

They do so I am trying to decide which one to put in the heep.

At least I know they work. I am going to test the one I take out also.
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Unread 10-04-2007, 09:52 PM   #44
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I just bought a new radiator for mine today. As I was talking to the guy, he was saying that Robertshaw thermostats suck big time and Stant is the brand to get. He also suggested getting the Super Stant, which, if it fails, it automatically locks in the open position, preventing major overheating. He also suggested the 180 for Florida.
Anyway, I got a heavy-duty, all-metal (no plastic tanks for me) Modine for $130 with a lifetime warranty.
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Unread 10-05-2007, 07:22 AM   #45
jeepwrnglr92
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hdfxrs91
I just bought a new radiator for mine today. As I was talking to the guy, he was saying that Robertshaw thermostats suck big time and Stant is the brand to get. He also suggested getting the Super Stant, which, if it fails, it automatically locks in the open position, preventing major overheating. He also suggested the 180 for Florida.
Anyway, I got a heavy-duty, all-metal (no plastic tanks for me) Modine for $130 with a lifetime warranty.

Where did you get the rad?

I am not sure what t-stat is has. I bought it from Bennett
They said it was a Part master reboxed it was Stant in the box. But not super stant..

I guess I'll go with the 180 first.
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