I changed the water pump, tstat fan belts, had the head done and the radiator flushed and tested.
What else could it be. THe stupid thing is still over heating.
New shroud and new fan/clutch Sorry left that out
EDITED TO INCLUDE MORE INFO:
Hi All,
I decided to clean this post up and be a little clearer on what has been done to the heap to this point.
Truck seemed to be running fin when I first bought it. But it was cooler in Jan.
I did the basics:
Plugs
Wirers
Oil/filter
Air filter
{Shock,Brakes,Tirers/rims} Yes no affect on cooling I know, just part of the list
Flushed the coolant (block and radiator ) with Prestone kit.
Hoses checked ok
Changed out tstat
Clutch fan
Flushed and pressure tested radiator
No coolant in oil
New water pump
Another new tstat
New belt
Pulled the fuel tank and replace bad hose to fuel pump
New radiator cap (x2)
Pulled head and had it rebuild and resurfaced Put in new seals, gaskets etc.
new fan shroud
Some of this I did some the mechanic did so I am going to check his work when it gets home.
Always start with the easy stuff before you start throwing money at a problem. As isuace said, check the clutch fan and the shroud. Is your coolant level right, and is the mixture correct? Do you have a winch or lights on the front end that is blocking airflow to the radiator? Is the front of your radiator caked with mud or anything that is preventing it from working? Do you have coolant in the oil? Double check your thermostat and make sure you didn't get a bad one.
Maybe describing when it overheats will give folks ideas. Does it just go straight to red sitting still, just on the highway, etc? Does it redline or just run hotter than it should?
I am hoping the mechanic put the belt on right. It was on right when I gave it to him
as for what is happening I had another threat on this a while back but here goes.
At idle the truck temp goes up to 240+. It does not take long for it to get there. When I start driving it "use" to go down in temp but who knows at this point what it is doing.
Just a thought, have you considered hoses? A friend of mine reused some radiator hoses on a s10 after replacing everything else and whenever the engine would reach a certain temperature, the walls of the hose were so weak they'd collapse on themselves and starve the engine. It took him weaks to figure it out.
Just a thought, have you considered hoses? A friend of mine reused some radiator hoses on a s10 after replacing everything else and whenever the engine would reach a certain temperature, the walls of the hose were so weak they'd collapse on themselves and starve the engine. It took him weaks to figure it out.
The mechanic said he used a IR thermometer gage and it was reading high. I thought the same thing and I may replace it once it gets home just to be safe I think its only 16$ or something like that.
I bought an IR thermometer too and Ill check it with that too.
I believe that there are some engines where the water pump turns in one direction and other engines it turns in another direction. When purchasing a new water pump, you have to make sure that the vanes are facing the same direction as the original.
One way to make sure that coolant is moving through the system is to remove the t-stat and watch the water through the rad cap to see if it is moving in the right direction.
Also make sure you have the proper temp t-stat (195).
Just my 2 cents... If it gets hot while sitting, and cools a little while moving, I would take a real good look at the fan clutch... Just my two cents...
Check the temprature at the radiator inlet and outlet. The bottom radiator tank should be 11 to 15 degrease cooler than the top tank. If the drop is more than this the radiator is restricted.
was the head machined flat before reinstalling it with a new headgasket? nowhere in any of your posts have you mentioned any machine work. I have actually bought "remanufactured" heads that were not perfectly flat....you cant usually get away with doing a "slip & slide" headgasket job.
was the head machined flat before reinstalling it with a new headgasket? nowhere in any of your posts have you mentioned any machine work. I have actually bought "remanufactured" heads that were not perfectly flat....you cant usually get away with doing a "slip & slide" headgasket job.
Sorry never did a head job that they did nto machine it. So I just assumed every one machined theirs. But yes it was machined flat. They said it really did not need it. But they did machine it none the less.
Just my 2 cents... If it gets hot while sitting, and cools a little while moving, I would take a real good look at the fan clutch... Just my two cents...
Someone already mentioned this and i think hes probably right. If you have a serpentine belt drive you need a reverse rotation water pump. If you have a standard V belt setup you need a regular rotation pump. These are interchangeable physically but will cause your overhaeating issue. I would check that first. Chris
Someone already mentioned this and i think hes probably right. If you have a serpentine belt drive you need a reverse rotation water pump. If you have a standard V belt setup you need a regular rotation pump. These are interchangeable physically but will cause your overhaeating issue. I would check that first. Chris
I have to agree with this one. If you did everything you stated, then one of the obvious things I think is the wrong water pump is used. They offer both for that year YJ.
I have to agree with this one. If you did everything you stated, then one of the obvious things I think is the wrong water pump is used. They offer both for that year YJ.
OK just confirmed the part numbers and the pump is for a serp belt. not the v belt.
Man tis i sperplexing. a cooling system has only so many parts...
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