Jeep still over heating even after head job - Page 14 - JeepForum.com

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post #196 of 203 Old 02-04-2008, 10:09 PM
docneon
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I was keeping up with this thread for a while, but lost track. In the end it just neede more air going through the radiator at idle?


Quote:
Originally Posted by Bhelliom
I assumed this thread was going to be something completely different.

I was sorely mistaken
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post #197 of 203 Old 02-05-2008, 07:03 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by docneon View Post
I was keeping up with this thread for a while, but lost track. In the end it just neede more air going through the radiator at idle?
Yes... Summary: I had a bad mechanic and did a lot of un needed work. I found out I had a wrong facing fan blade. I got a fan blade off the internet for about $48 shipped to me and viola no more issues... TO DATE. now that I woke up Murphy..

I took it out off roading with the local Jeep club and she ran 210 all day. I still have an extra electric pusher fan on the rad just in case. I will swap over to the tauris fan when I can find one.

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post #198 of 203 Old 02-05-2008, 08:44 AM
docneon
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WOW! Congrats on finally figuring it out. Thanks for posting all of your tribulations Hopefully if anyone else runs into a similar problem they can use this as a guide.

I almost feel like I should send you flowers or something for enduring such great pain and finally conquering the beast... will you settle for this:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bhelliom
I assumed this thread was going to be something completely different.

I was sorely mistaken
l _____
/l ,[_\_\],
l---L []lllllll[]-
()_) ()_)
---o-)_)
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post #199 of 203 Old 02-05-2008, 10:19 AM Thread Starter
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Ya hope others learn what an idiot I was to trust a mechanic to work on my heep.

Well at least I wont have to do a top end for a while.

2015 Jeep Wrangler JKU "Tank" Sport S
2002 Avalanche: To many mods to list
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post #200 of 203 Old 03-22-2008, 03:40 PM Thread Starter
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Jeep has been running great but even so I picked up the ford Tauris fan this week at a jun kyard for liek $16. Not to bad. so I may get to the swap sooner than planned.

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post #201 of 203 Old 12-10-2009, 10:41 PM
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Wow ! I just spent the last 2 hours reading through this entire post and about half way through it I thought..........

"Hmmmm......wunder if his fan blade is on backwards so it is pushing air into the rad instead of pulling air through it" ? That would explain why it would really over heat quick on the road because you've then got wind in opposing directions, canceling each other out.

Very interesting. Way to stick with it, I think I would have wound up rocking in my chair in the corner after all that !

JJF
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post #202 of 203 Old 12-11-2009, 08:27 AM
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talk about back from the dead

Sold) 94 YJ, 4.0L 5 sp manual, Hard top, 33/12.50s, 4.10 ring&pinions, Polished D30 w/Aussie front, 8.8 rear w/ LS, 2.5" RC, 2" BL, 5/8" booms, TJ flares, SYE, custom F/R bumpers and rock sliders, 8k winch, dual optimas, HO alt.

2) (Sold) 99 TJ, mustang 5.0 GT 40, AX15/231J, trektop, 37x12.50r17 cooper STT, superlift 6" long arm, D30/44 w/ ARBs & yukons, customized warn bumpers, custom sliders, 12K winch w/ synthetic rope, custom paint

3) 2007 JKU being built now
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post #203 of 203 Old 05-30-2012, 02:07 PM
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Fan

Glad you got it fixed, so the fan was facing the wrong way and not pulling the air into the radiator?

One small note that I picked up on. You said you ran straight water in your system? Big un uh there, if one of the two PO ran just hose water in your block your water passages are clogged with calcium and all the minerals that are common in household tap water. In addition plain water will not lower the boiling point like Ethenlene glycol does.
The only time you should ever run plain water is in an emergency. By using tap water you put all the minerals into that block, it rusts and the water jackets get clogged with crud and it ruins the block. You should have the block tanked by a good shop. And always use 50/50 mix coolant with purified water, never hose water. ASE trained mechanic.
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