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Unread 10-22-2009, 01:05 PM   #31
Apollo12227
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Quote:
Originally Posted by azgurney View Post
Right there may be the problem. How long ago did you remove the parking brake pedal assembly? On my 91 one of the bolts that holds on the parking brake pedal has a wire attached to it with a ring. That is the fuel pump ground.
I didn't actually mess with anything inside the cab, the parking brake cable has a joint that holds two seperate cables together, I d/c it at that joint which is just about under the drivers seat next to the frame rail... I havn't ever touched the pedal... And I probably took out that cable about a year or so ago... the cable was cut when the guy before me swapped a new dana 35 into it, they just cut the cable rather than making it work lol... Anyway, I'll definatly have a look to see if i've got any grounds running to the bolts that hold that pedal assembly on...

Wont be able to check until I get off work lol, but I'll have a look.

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Unread 10-22-2009, 02:07 PM   #32
m_t_r_86
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Que89YJ View Post
Here is a couple of quick trobleshooting ideas. Right now you are not sure how the event is occuring or where in the system. The ASD feed powers just about everything you need to run the Jeep except the fuel pump. Put a jumper across the ASD relay power to force it to stay powered. If the problem doesnt change try the same with the fuel pump relay. It will tell you if the problem is system power or a control thing. Report back on what happens. The jumper should go across the relay terminals that are perpindicular to each other.
Jumping the fuel relay wont work. If you jump the fuel relay and then hit the gas, it'll die out. Since we already know it runs in idle, this wouldn't help at all and would waste time.
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Unread 10-22-2009, 02:08 PM   #33
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what size engine is it. 4.2 or 4.0?
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Unread 10-22-2009, 02:31 PM   #34
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OK, I'm assuming you have a column shifter, take a look at where the shift linkage on the column goes down to the firewall. Check to see if any of the linkage contacts or rubs any wires when it's shifted into drive, it could be where your short is. I'm just thinking of things it could be.
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Unread 10-22-2009, 03:01 PM   #35
m_t_r_86
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5.7YJ View Post
OK, I'm assuming you have a column shifter, take a look at where the shift linkage on the column goes down to the firewall. Check to see if any of the linkage contacts or rubs any wires when it's shifted into drive, it could be where your short is. I'm just thinking of things it could be.
Good thinking.
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Unread 10-22-2009, 05:08 PM   #36
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Yea when I jumped the fuel pump relay it definatly made me worry lol the pump activated and just sat there whining with no key in the ignition lol I took the jump out pretty quick. And BY THE WAY I can pull the damn key out while I'm driving... There is nothing holding the key in the ignition... You Ned the key to turn the ignition but after that it will fall out while you are driving.. It doesn't have any effect when you pull it out while at idle or driving so it's not like it turns off when the key falls out. I don't know why I ididnt mention this before is there any way this could cause my problem? And I'll definatly inspect the column for jacked wires... As for the ignition cyllendar for the key it works every time starting the engine so it's not like the whole unit is bouncing around. the part you turn is firm and doesn't easily let you turn the jeep off... Basically I'm saying it's not like I can bump the column and the jeep turns off... Any thoughts?
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Unread 10-22-2009, 05:11 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m_t_r_86 View Post
what size engine is it. 4.2 or 4.0?
And it's a 4.0 to answer your question it's not carburated.
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Unread 10-22-2009, 07:33 PM   #38
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Does anyone know if The ignition cylendar that the key goes into could cause this? I can pull the key out with the jeep running... It doesn't turn the jeep off when the key comes out or anything and the cylendar it's self doesn't turn the jeep off if I smack around the steering column. I've got a bigass keychain which is probably what made the thing let the key start cing out anyway
...
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Unread 10-22-2009, 07:38 PM   #39
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Do you have a solenoid on the firewall? You know, battery runs to it, then to starter? Mine looked fine, new terminals, bat cables, and new relays on the battery tray ( you probably have them in a "power supply box" on the inner fender where your fuses are...

Anyway, I checked and rechecked and what I had happen was one of the screws holding it to the firewall was stripped...it would be fine but would loosen just enought to not get a good ground to the firewall! Also check the ground wire the runs to the engine block...mine was grody and had to be cleaned up...
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Unread 10-22-2009, 08:01 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by noflacko View Post
Do you have a solenoid on the firewall? You know, battery runs to it, then to starter? Mine looked fine, new terminals, bat cables, and new relays on the battery tray ( you probably have them in a "power supply box" on the inner fender where your fuses are...

Anyway, I checked and rechecked and what I had happen was one of the screws holding it to the firewall was stripped...it would be fine but would loosen just enought to not get a good ground to the firewall! Also check the ground wire the runs to the engine block...mine was grody and had to be cleaned up...
No his solenoind is part of the starter.
I would start out replacing your ignition switch. Heck it is bad mise well fix it.
You said you replaced the distributer. Where did you get it? I had a issue with one from a parts store. Had to get one from the stealer ship in order for my Jeep to run right. Mine would start fine and run fine sometimes other times it would start and sound like it was not running on all cylinders. Then I could shut it off restart it and it would run fine.
Something else no one has asked you does you speedo work?
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Unread 10-22-2009, 08:15 PM   #41
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Yeah my speedometer works alright, at least last time I checked it did, what are you getting at? I'll call the dealer tomorrow and find out how much their distributors are, I bought my replacement distributor from advance... I sure would hate to hear it's worthless...
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Unread 10-22-2009, 09:00 PM   #42
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Your speedo is connected to your ECM. It will keep your engine from stalling when coming to a stop. You said it worked so disregard.
Again I would replace your ignition switch. This was suggested in the first page and now that you said that you can pull out the key when it is running something is wrong there. Even if it is not the problem it still needs to be fixed.
If I remember right the distributer from the dealer was under $200 and included the cap.
May want to check your fuel pressure too. Just a thought and it would be cheaper than throwing parts at the Jeep.
Oh and I am pretty sure I got the distrubuter that I had a problem with from Advance too.
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Unread 10-22-2009, 09:12 PM   #43
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Thanks for the input TSE, i'll definatly look into replacing the ignition switch where the key goes into, apparently there is some other fuse or switch or something that a lot of people have go out on them? The only switch I know is the one the key plugs into... As for the distributor I guess I can go ahead and snag another one of those as well, i've done everything else I can think of other than seperating the entire wiring harness wire by wire... I've already bought a guage to keep an eye on the fuel pressure, i've got pressure and the fuel pump engages every time, even right after the stalls happen and the engine wont fire, the fuel pump engages all the same... Then after about 30 seconds to 3 minutes, she will start right back up again like nothing ever happend.

Still, I cant imagine why I can go backwards and not have it stall, but 10 to 30 feet after moving foward, out like a light... Perhaps the ignition switch is the culperate, the column shifter is right next to it, perhaps the ignition is shorting our or something as I reach drive, where it doesnt in reverse, neutral, or park...

Anyway, thanks again.
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Unread 10-22-2009, 09:25 PM   #44
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my jeep would randomly die when i first got it. didn't set a code 11 tho, it had a rub on the ect wires and when in data stream on my scan tool you would be driving and then it would drop the coolant temp that the ecm saw to like -160. it then flooded and wouldn't start.
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Unread 10-22-2009, 09:28 PM   #45
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wow thats pretty intense Leviroberts, I replaced the rear coolent temp sensor a few weeks before this happend, but I never really messed with the one up front that the ECM reads, i'll take note of that and follow the sensor a few feet and see what happens.

Thanks for the input bro.
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