Jeep dies when it warms up?!?!? - JeepForum.com

 
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post #1 of 10 Old 02-13-2005, 07:45 PM Thread Starter
RabiDaWise
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Jeep dies when it warms up?!?!?

Ok, I've got the weirdest thing goin on. I've got an '88 with the 4.2. My Jeep is dying after it gets warmed up. Its not sputtering, its dying like you turned the key off. I've already replaced the coil and the distributor module and traced all the wires from them both. There's no breaks in any of the wires. If I let it sit for a while I can crank it back up and it'll run fine for a few minutes. My dad and I think that it may be that the ECU is bad and its getting hot from the current running to it. Anyone have any idea????


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'88 Wrangler Laredo, I6, Auto, 3" Body Lift, 33"x12.50" Destination MTs, Nutter'd w/ HEI, 32/36 Weber, LOTS more to come

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post #2 of 10 Old 02-13-2005, 08:15 PM
CosmicCreeper
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I had a car that did that, no mechanic could figure it out, sold the POS and bought a jeep, lol

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post #3 of 10 Old 02-13-2005, 11:19 PM
sentinal02
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let it die again and then immediately start tracing the spark path back. see if you can find a bad component somewhere. also, check the fusible links. i doubt a wire warming up would be the problem, but the links might and it could be cutting power to the ignition. if you make it back to the computer and the links check out, maybe you can try the nutter bypass to eliminate the computer and see if it will run like that. better than throwing parts at it before testing. HTH

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post #4 of 10 Old 02-13-2005, 11:36 PM
kg6mti
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I had this problem with my 87'. It would run fine while it was warming up and it would run great when you are at normal driving speeds. But when you stop and try to let it idle after it warms up it would die.

I had my mechanic look at it and the diagnosis was just a worn out carburetor. I have talked with others that have told me that the real problem is that there are several seals and areas in the throttle that just wear out and cause air leaks. The result is that you cannot obtain a normal idle anymore.

I decided to get rid of the massive piece of crap carburetor and install the Mopar MPI kit.

Good Luck to you!

Experience is what you get when you get what you didnít want.
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post #5 of 10 Old 02-14-2005, 08:47 PM
oct7brian
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My 1990 does what you are describing but not when it is warmed up but instead after it has been sitting for a while. It runs great when it is warmed up.. weird huh. I'm thinking its the carb though

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post #6 of 10 Old 02-15-2005, 06:02 PM
abrupt11
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I've always had idle problems on my 90' YJ 4.2L. I rebuilt my stock carb too many times and upgraded to a weber thinking this would solve my problem NOPE. I replaced all the vacum hoses, spark plugs & wires, distributor cap & rotor. I took it to mechanic and they can't figure it out. I notice the choke gets stuck sometimes so I think that could be a problem. It's pain I had to live with but, Now I'm ready to do an engine swap (Fuel Injected baby).

The 4.2L are known for : Vacum Leaks (too many hoses), Carb Problems, Valve Cover Leaks, and No High End Power.

If your willing to put up with it the 4.2L. The engine can run forever.

My options were:

Mopar MPI Kit (around $1500). To me to much to put into engine that has to many miles on it.

Engine swap! Find a wrecked s-10 pickup or blazer (4.3L F.I) for about the same price.

---------------------------------------------------------------------
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post #7 of 10 Old 02-15-2005, 07:54 PM
lostboy
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Have your ignition module checked. It's the one under the washer fluid reservoir. Autozone or Pepboys will usually test em. Make sure they let it reach operating temp first.

89 yj w/ mopar mpi and 4.0 head.94 ax-15 tranny and t-case, more mods comin.
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post #8 of 10 Old 02-16-2005, 10:10 AM
oct7brian
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My dad had a old ford truck that he had to replace the ignition module a few times and he said the way my jeep acts he thinks that might be it. I guess I'll check it out.

1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 Limited Edition, Upcountry Suspension for Now, Infinity Sound, NP 242 Swap

2002 Jeep Liberty Sport 4x4 3.7L Auto

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post #9 of 10 Old 02-16-2005, 10:35 PM Thread Starter
RabiDaWise
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Turns out it was the ignition module. I took a coil, a distributor module, and alot of time tracing wires to figure it out, but that's what it was. I went ahead and did the Nutter Bypass while I was in there. It all seems to be workin fine now. Thanks for the help.

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'88 Wrangler Laredo, I6, Auto, 3" Body Lift, 33"x12.50" Destination MTs, Nutter'd w/ HEI, 32/36 Weber, LOTS more to come

"Ran into a chum with a bottle of rum and we wound up drinkin' all nite" Jimmy Buffet
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post #10 of 10 Old 03-12-2005, 08:16 AM
bluegrass
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Yup ...I agree with lostboy check the Ignition Control Mod!
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