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Unread 10-21-2013, 04:59 PM   #1
target4fun
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JCR 1 Ton tie rods & Horrible TURNing Radius

I have upgraded to the JCR 1 ton tie rods and One thing I did notice that my jeep now turns like a F350 rather than a jeep. Has anyone had this issue and know how to fix it. I feel a huge difference I have the JB4x4 steering bracket installed as well as 1 ton rods. with a pitman drop as well.

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91 YJ Renegade: 05 tj Motor, NV3550 Transmission, 1 ton Tie rods, SOA w/stock leafs, 33x12.50, 4.11 gears, Tom Woods Drive shafts and SYE, ford 8.8 in rear,M.O.R.E. Rear Traction Bar, D30 front, Intelltronix gauges, HID conversion hella black magic windshield lights, hella renegade fog's in fenders.
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Unread 10-21-2013, 09:43 PM   #2
Dake
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Is your drag link the right length going to the jb bracket? I used to run this bracket and my steering when stop to stop.
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Unread 10-21-2013, 11:05 PM   #3
target4fun
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Not sure what the correct length is supposed to be. My guess is mine is too long? If you still have this setup if you let me know what yours is id be very appricative..
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91 YJ Renegade: 05 tj Motor, NV3550 Transmission, 1 ton Tie rods, SOA w/stock leafs, 33x12.50, 4.11 gears, Tom Woods Drive shafts and SYE, ford 8.8 in rear,M.O.R.E. Rear Traction Bar, D30 front, Intelltronix gauges, HID conversion hella black magic windshield lights, hella renegade fog's in fenders.
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Unread 10-21-2013, 11:13 PM   #4
Dake
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I have the drag link still. Ill put a tape on it for you. tomorrow
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Unread 10-22-2013, 05:28 AM   #5
jsawduste
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The length of the drag link has no effect. As long as the pitman arm is centered in it`s arc with the wheels pointed straight a head the drag link simply connects the pitman to the tie rod. To long or short then yes the steering radius will be longer/shorter on that side but not both.

If the tie rod has been moved further outboard of the ball joint the way to get steering radius back is the length of the pitman arm.

Looking at the pictures on the JCR web site simply shows a larger version of the inverted y steering components. An improvement yes (kinda) but the MORE set up would have been a much better way to go if SOA was in your game plan
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Unread 10-22-2013, 09:42 AM   #6
bgredjeep
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Like queue said. When I first installed my d44 I had the same issue as the steering arms on the knuckles were longer than the stock d30. A longer pitman arm would have corrected the issue as well, but I used a shorter steering arm from Parts Mike when I did crossover steering instead.

Durango steering box is another item that I understand can cause radius issues as it doesn't rotate as far as the stock box. Just changing the steering linkage shouldn't have any effect on the total amount you are able to steer side to side.
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Unread 10-22-2013, 03:05 PM   #7
target4fun
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Okay well. I can tell you for a fact I have significantly shorter turning radius. Been driving this jeep for 12 years and after SOA and tie rod upgrade with jb bracket I next to no turning radius. Maybe its an adjustment I can make? I am sure there is a way to cure it.

Here are pics to help see whats going on.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/m0hc06ez207tchr/qhos9750Bi
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91 YJ Renegade: 05 tj Motor, NV3550 Transmission, 1 ton Tie rods, SOA w/stock leafs, 33x12.50, 4.11 gears, Tom Woods Drive shafts and SYE, ford 8.8 in rear,M.O.R.E. Rear Traction Bar, D30 front, Intelltronix gauges, HID conversion hella black magic windshield lights, hella renegade fog's in fenders.
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Unread 10-22-2013, 03:23 PM   #8
Anticanman
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Put the stock pitman arm back on.
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Unread 10-22-2013, 04:26 PM   #9
fishadventure
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I would look at the tie rod and other parts for contact as full clock is reached for left and right...
The other thing I would do is compare the pitman arm to the one you took off.
Another check if the prior two don't turn on a lightbulb is to mark the sector shaft and steering box housing with wheels centered, then lock-left and right. Then pop off the pitman arm and see if the steering box is the culprit- but I doubt it. I would put money on something hitting something it isn't supposed to when it isn't supposed to.
I might be newish to jeeps but not to cars and trucks and something doesn't make sense here.

http://www.jb4x4.com/store/jbrsb.htm
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/r...acket-1001321/
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/j...estion-910593/
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Unread 10-22-2013, 04:54 PM   #10
ssyj94
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Put the stock pitman arm back on theres no need for that drop arm. Afterwards see if it turns farther left or right.
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Unread 10-22-2013, 05:20 PM   #11
target4fun
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Yeah the stock pitman wouldnt reach. Fish adventure ill try what you described and see what I can find. Thanks.
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91 YJ Renegade: 05 tj Motor, NV3550 Transmission, 1 ton Tie rods, SOA w/stock leafs, 33x12.50, 4.11 gears, Tom Woods Drive shafts and SYE, ford 8.8 in rear,M.O.R.E. Rear Traction Bar, D30 front, Intelltronix gauges, HID conversion hella black magic windshield lights, hella renegade fog's in fenders.
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Unread 10-22-2013, 06:26 PM   #12
jsawduste
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Quote:
Originally Posted by target4fun View Post
Yeah the stock pitman wouldnt reach. Fish adventure ill try what you described and see what I can find. Thanks.
Explain your comment "wouldn't reach" That could be your whole problem right there. The different arm may call for a longer DL.
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Unread 10-22-2013, 10:12 PM   #13
ssyj94
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Yea how wouldnt it reach?

So does it turn equal distances now?
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Unread 10-22-2013, 10:56 PM   #14
timatoe
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Look on the JB4X4 web site it clearly says, "The stock YJ drag link will be too short to reconnect to the JB-RSB after installation. A new drag link can be assembled from OEM parts which is detailed in the instructions."

The solution is a longer drag link not a drop pitman arm. I used a drag link from a XJ cut it in the middle to the correct length in the JB instructions, butt welded it and then sleeved it and welded the ends of the sleeve, never had an issue and also run 1 ton TRE's.
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Unread 10-23-2013, 10:09 AM   #15
fishadventure
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timatoe View Post
Look on the JB4X4 web site...butt welded it and then sleeved it and welded the ends of the sleeve, never had an issue and also run 1 ton TRE's.[/FONT]
I know that bracket from JB is supposed to be the slick ticket but I have a question. Really two questions.

1] Is there any reason why people don't cut the steering knuckle and weld parts to it? I have an extra tie rod so I have a piece that will accept the drag link, so I think I can fabricate my own piece for the drag link mount.

That leaves the low tie rod.

2] Why can't the tie rod tapers be cut off the knuckle and welded back in a high location? it would seem a gusseted modification would be much stronger than stock and not low and vulnerable on the trail.

Thanks for thoughts.
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