JB4x4 HiSteer, Drag Link Clearance - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 23 Old 04-06-2015, 06:51 AM Thread Starter
NewKindOfClown
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JB4x4 HiSteer, Drag Link Clearance

Hey all,

I just installed a set of axles I picked up (SOA), and the guy must have been running crazy lift. The rear pinion angle was 32! I shimmed both axles for now since I'm rushing to prep for a weekend trip, but I have a new problem.

The guy included the steering in the sale and said he'd been using it, but I can only make a quarter turn left before the drag link hits the spring. I'm also limited to a little over an inch of droop on that side for the same reason.

Am I missing something here? What are my options for fixing this?

1993 YJ, 4.0L, D30/8.8 SOA, RE1444 1.5" springs, MORE 5/8" boom shackles, JB4x4 HiSteer bracket, stock pitman arm

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Last edited by NewKindOfClown; 04-06-2015 at 07:53 AM.
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post #2 of 23 Old 04-06-2015, 07:59 AM
Steve707
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Are you using a drop pitman arm?
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post #3 of 23 Old 04-06-2015, 08:00 AM Thread Starter
NewKindOfClown
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I installed a new stock pitman arm with the axle swap. Sorry, I added that to the first post via edit

'93 YJ, 4.0L, 32RH
SOA with 1.5" RE leafs
D30/8.8, 4.56, TrueTracs
37" Goodyear MTRs
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post #4 of 23 Old 04-06-2015, 08:31 AM
Steve707
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If you pull the shims on the front, what's your caster angle? Also you can roll that retaining clip up if it's contacting the bolt and nut on your drag link.
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post #5 of 23 Old 04-06-2015, 08:44 AM Thread Starter
NewKindOfClown
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The angle iron he welded on for strength is contacting the edge of the leaf. I just installed the 6" shims (aluminum, temporary until we move perches), and I can measure the current caster when I go downstairs (and I'll edit this post within the next 20 minutes when I do). The driveline angle still isn't right, as the 6 shims weren't enough in the front. It needs 3-4 more to bring the pinion and driveshaft in line. These things were practically pointing at the sky when I got them... I know the extra few degrees will move the steering up a little higher, but I don't think it'd be enough to drive.

'93 YJ, 4.0L, 32RH
SOA with 1.5" RE leafs
D30/8.8, 4.56, TrueTracs
37" Goodyear MTRs
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post #6 of 23 Old 04-06-2015, 08:50 AM
Steve707
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Did he cut his old drag link in half and use angle to extend it? Flipping the drag link should give you a little clearance since the angle will be on top, but its not a permanent solution.
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post #7 of 23 Old 04-06-2015, 09:01 AM Thread Starter
NewKindOfClown
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Wow, I'm so burnt out from the work that I didn't even consider a half turn on the drag link. Thank you. Now let me get down there and give you some answers.

My last trip to Rausch Creek left me with two broken drive shafts, a broken D35 pinion yoke, a broken TC yoke, and blown #2 and #3 cylinders. It's been non-stop work since July (in a parking lot) to get this thing ready for this weekend, and my optimism is dwindling.

'93 YJ, 4.0L, 32RH
SOA with 1.5" RE leafs
D30/8.8, 4.56, TrueTracs
37" Goodyear MTRs
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post #8 of 23 Old 04-06-2015, 09:30 AM Thread Starter
NewKindOfClown
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Caster (measured on the bottom of the C) is 1-1.5 with the 6 shims installed to LOWER my pinion angle.

The drag link is solid. He added the angle to strengthen it for the oversize tires.

I just finished rotating it a half turn. I can turn the wheel farther left than before, but it's still contacting.
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post #9 of 23 Old 04-06-2015, 09:45 AM
Steve707
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So if you remove the shims you'll have 7* caster? Are the new perches parallel to the original ones? Everywhere I've read about soa has always wanted approximately 7* caster for the dana 30.
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post #10 of 23 Old 04-06-2015, 09:51 AM
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Caster angle trumps pinion angle, adjust/build around that. I'd also look at building a new drag link.
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post #11 of 23 Old 04-06-2015, 09:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Randonexplosion View Post
Caster angle trumps pinion angle, adjust/build around that. I'd also look at building a new drag link.
+1

A new double cardan front driveshaft and new yoke for your NP231 may help with your driveshaft issue.
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post #12 of 23 Old 04-06-2015, 10:05 AM
JeeperDon
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Start from the beginning. Pop the drag link, steer both ways, then lock the steering wheel in the center of rotation (so it takes equal turns each way to hit the gearbox internal stop, no matter where the actual steering wheel points). Then make sure the pitman is pointing about straight backwards, fix it if not. Then, with the tires straight, adjust the drag link length and put it back on. Now see how the steering is lock to lock.

'93 YJ, '02 GM 4.3V6, SOA, dual ARB's, 8.8+D30(WarnHubs), 4.88s, 35" BFG KM2s, AX15, NP231+4:1+SYE+2LO, York OBA, Warn M8000.
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post #13 of 23 Old 04-06-2015, 10:11 AM Thread Starter
NewKindOfClown
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I took off my 1-ton steering to install these axles. Shims and stock steering parts are all temporary, but I didn't know caster is so important. So is the consensus that I should remove the front shims? If I do, the steering will be even closer to the leaf spring.

I should mention I installed a TJ NP231, and this D30 has solid shafts. Also, I'll be towing the YJ behind my J10 if the Wrangler is ready to go to Rausch this weekend. So it won't be seeing road miles if that makes a difference for anyone's advice on this temporary setup.

And thanks again. This is my first time messing with a front axle.
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post #14 of 23 Old 04-06-2015, 10:13 AM Thread Starter
NewKindOfClown
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Don, that's all been done. The problem is my drag link is contacting the leaf spring and limiting my ability to turn left, as well as my passenger side downtravel.
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post #15 of 23 Old 04-06-2015, 10:31 AM
timatoe
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I understand you're just trying to get it going, but......

I'd cut those perches off, they're super tall and that's likely a big reason why you're contacting springs/drag link. When I set my perches when I did the SOA I simply set them parallel to the stock perches. If the stock ones are still there it's easy to simply get them "level" then tack perches to the top side "level".

The stock YJ drag link if too short to use the JB setup, I got one from a XJ cut it in half and cut out what I didn't need (it's quite a bit longer than a YJ). Then butt welded the two pieces together, ground it smooth, then sleeved it with some square tubing plug welded in several spots and fully welded at the ends.

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