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Unread 01-20-2006, 11:30 PM   #1
crosscheck17
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1994 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: McHenry County, IL
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It's about time I lift it...

I finally broke down and am going to lift my Jeep this spring. I've decided to go with the Rough Country 4" and stick w/ my 31x10.50's (for now...). However, a lot of you say Rough Country is crap and rides like its name says, but I honestly won't be doing much (if any) hardcore wheeling. I think that it should hold up fine for my application. And I don't mind a rough ride either. I kind of like it. My 31's I have are practically brand new, so I'm gonna run those down and get 33x10.50's when it's time for new tires.

I would really like to save some $$ and install it myself. Many say that it is fairly easy to do. I have never worked with metal or done anything besides an oil change to my Jeep. Just looking at those rusty shackle bolts make me cringe. I don't think I could handle it. I heard PB blaster will do the trick, but if a bolt were to break off, I'm screwed. I don't have access to any good metal working tools.

On the other hand, it just seems like taking the old springs and shocks off and putting new ones on and putting on a few brackets too to straighten everything out. Seems easy, but I think I must be mistaken.

I'm sure there are a million posts like this, but I'm doing this for a little personal reassurance. Should I be fine with a basic set of tools? What could I do if I break a bolt somewhere? Knowing my mechanical skills, should I play someone to do this?

I just want to know what I would be getting into if I tried this myself (I'll have a few people help me too).

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Unread 01-20-2006, 11:45 PM   #2
Slapahoe
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Hey, I had at one time, just a 4" Rough Country and 31's.

You should be just fine if you have the basic set of standard size tools. There are some big bolts and small, just make sure you have a variety.

I would recomend pre-lubing all bolts before you remove them. If they break it wont be a big deal, extracting broken bolts is no hard task.

If you have any questions you can PM me.

heres some pics of what you can expect.

Pre-rhino liner


after rhino liner



now




As far as rise quality, you can expect a rough ride with a rough country lift. But if your bought a YJ for comfort regardless of lift, your in the wrong section. Good luck. Lemme know if you have any questions.
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Unread 01-20-2006, 11:55 PM   #3
92 Green YJ
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hey good call on the rough crappy suspension. I'm sure you will have lots of luck with it.
that is of course proviuded you want leaf springs that will look like this after you cruise through a mud puddle


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Unread 01-21-2006, 02:34 AM   #4
brundz
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ehh i've had the rough country suspension for about a year now and i've been known to wheel my jeep pretty hard, jump it, slam it into big hills, dive into ruts and mud pits and the suspensions held up fine. not a problem at all actually. only problem if you can call it a problem i found was keeping the rear trac bar tight so i just ripped it off...you dont need it anyway. and it actually doesn't ride that bad after it settles. keep your shackles around 40ppsi and she rides fine. i drive it everyday and dont mind it at all and i hate rough suspensions. maybe i just got lucky, i doubt it tho
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Unread 01-21-2006, 07:49 AM   #5
Slapahoe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 92 Green YJ
hey good call on the rough crappy suspension. I'm sure you will have lots of luck with it.
that is of course proviuded you want leaf springs that will look like this after you cruise through a mud puddle



You know whats funny, is I slammed into a small ditch and did the same thing on the same side. Not as severe, but same bend and everything.

I have heard that rough country springs have a limited warrenty on them.
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Unread 01-21-2006, 11:49 AM   #6
got_4_lo
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not trying to be a prick...

but spend some $$ and save up some more and do it right the first time. you won't regret it

there's only like a $300 diference between rough counry and BDS, i know it sounds a lot, but if you end up breaking a sping you're going to spend almost that much replacing it (in time and labor)...
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Unread 01-21-2006, 04:33 PM   #7
crosscheck17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by got_4_lo
but spend some $$ and save up some more and do it right the first time. you won't regret it

there's only like a $300 diference between rough counry and BDS, i know it sounds a lot, but if you end up breaking a sping you're going to spend almost that much replacing it (in time and labor)...
You've got a point. The BDS lift will still be less than the RC w/ installation. The "No BS" warranty is a good selling point too...

Regardless of the brand, I should be able to install the lift successfully, right? About how long would it take to do? I've heard somewhere about 6 hrs or something but I could turn that into a whole weekend easily. Gotta plan these things out!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Numba1goalie
But if your bought a YJ for comfort regardless of lift, your in the wrong section.
Damn Straight!
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Unread 01-21-2006, 09:35 PM   #8
YJBlues
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If you aren't doing this till spring, a once weekly shot of PB Blaster on everything that needs to come apart should make the job go well by then.
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Unread 01-21-2006, 11:56 PM   #9
crosscheck17
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Well, I was just reading the BDS 2" Install (Long!) thread, and I have to admit, it kind of scared me. I think I may be getting in over my head on this one. Or maybe it's all the technical terms and stuff in that write-up. That's another one of my problems, I don't know much about suspension, so when you say "drag-link" or "tie-rod", I have no idea what your talking about. I would probably just take everything off then put it back on with the new suspension parts. I'm sure that write-up's got a ton of tricks to make things go smoother, but I can barely understand what is being said.

I'd still really like to do this and I've got some thinkin to do now...
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Unread 01-27-2006, 03:44 PM   #10
crosscheck17
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I've got yet another question. I noticed that some of the bolts, like the shackle bolts, are a nut and bolt combo that I could probably cut off and then replace if I can't get it out. Are a lot of the bolts like that? I'm afraid of breaking a bolt that goes into the frame or something because then I have to get it out of the frame. If it's got a nut on the other end, I don't have to get the nut off, I can just cut it and replace the nut and bolt, right? Sounds easy, but I think I may be in for a big surprise...

One more thing, I've been PBing my body mounts for about 3 days now to see how well this stuff really works, and it doesn't seem like it is doing anything to those bolts. I'm gonna keep trying and hope for the best. I would really like to avoid broken bolts and stuff that requires skills I don't have.
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Unread 01-27-2006, 03:59 PM   #11
Fenix85182
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PB Blaster is a God send. Right now it may not seem like it's doing anything, but if you were to test two bolts, PB one and not the other, you'd see the difference when you got under there with a breaker bar.

As for cutting bolts, ALWAYS try to loosen them properly first. It may not be an issue, just make sure you have a replacement bolt for that before you cut it, that it's not re-used.
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Unread 01-27-2006, 04:37 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Numba1goalie

heres some pics of what you can expect.

Pre-rhino liner
...

after rhino liner...

Am I the only one who didn't know that Rhino Liner looks exactly like dirt?
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Unread 01-27-2006, 10:55 PM   #13
ugmo
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I'm sorry, but what I've read so far in your thread and responses, I think you need help. Trust me, it's better to know now than to find out in the middle of your project. I've been fiddling with cars for years (I can probably rebuild a small block ford or chevy with my eyes closed; lowered my mustang to the ground) and assure you the jeep lift is not a novice *with basic tools* job. Of course, some people have a different interpretation of "basic" tools. Non-basic, my opinion, tools that I needed for my '93yj lift was an impact wrench, torque wrench, two floor jacks, and several jack stands (you will probably need a "hi-lift" set of stands and jack). I completed mine myself, but used my teenaged son's hands for a few minutes at one point. If you don't have a basic set of tools and the ones I listed, then you will may them. Btw, if the BDS instructions confused you then please get a wheeling buddy to help you, preferably someone who has seen or completed the job before.

Now, your rc springs. If you plan to mall cruise this rig, then you *might* be okay, although I have heard of sagging problems even when you don't offroad. If you plan to go offroad, then you certainly need a different set of springs. When you do an open search for rc, you'll see more problems than not. Of course, there are exceptions. Why roll the dice when you can save for another month or two and get a decent set of springs? DONT RUSH IT, you will enjoy your jeep more! You can go cheap in some areas, but this is not one of them!

Also, if you go too high, you'll need a SYE. I have a 2.5 Re w/ 3/4 more shackles and still needed to drop the tc to avoid the SYE. I can clear 32" just fine with extreme flex. I don't think my jeep could handle more lift w/o the SYE. As always, all jeeps are slightly different and you may pull it off.

Good luck.
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Unread 01-31-2006, 06:14 PM   #14
crosscheck17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ugmo
I'm sorry, but what I've read so far in your thread and responses, I think you need help.
Finally, someone was man enough to tell me this! Yeah, I figured I would need help, and lots of it. Me and my dad were gonna tackle it sometime in the summer, my dad's pretty smart with cars and basic metal stuff. But, he's got the same concern I have, broken bolts. That's pretty much it. If I was positive that everything would come off and go on no problem, I could definitly do it. I just lack metal working skills.

I also know someone in Autos at school who could possibly get me some time in the shop and the Autos teacher would supervise. They've got just about every tool there, and also a car lift. Once again, he could possibly get some time there, but I doubt that the teacher will want to do that.

Well, I'm still kind of thinking about this and I'll really crack down on this when the temps heat up a little. I hate cold weather.
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Unread 01-31-2006, 07:25 PM   #15
nodoor94
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If your only puttin on 2.5" on, i wouldnt worry aobut the SYE just yet. I have a 3.5" lift and i dont have an SYE even tho im probably losing some power to the unsatisfactory driveshaft angle. 4" is about as high as you can go without one. Not sure but i belive that you will have to lower the T-case. About Rough Country, i have not heard good things. You may tell yourself now that 'its a jeep. rough ride? whatever...' but once you start driveing it daily, youll learn fast. But whatever route you go, take off the trackbars while your under there. You get better front flex, up to 25% more rear flex, and the ride is much smoother and stability is amlost unaffected.

I did my lift with my buddies in the dead of winter, which was undesireable. We had problems with the bolts where the spring mounts to the frame, rust issues and of course the cold. The bushings around the bolts had siezed so good that grinding, hammering and cursing could not free them. We ground off the bolt heads and then set the bushings on fire with a torch and let the spring fall out. My friends masterminded the front while i finished up the rear. I wouldnt get into this if you dont have friends without some more advanced tools or a way to get it to the shop half finished (my friends an i prefer the convoy method on the shoulder of the road). If all goes as planned, a manual and these clever forums should get you throu most, but complications quickly pile up, espically on timelines an if you dont have some more advanced friends you may be stuck where a tow strap cant help you.
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