Ok so tired of starting new threads when I am doing some thing with my jeep time to consolodate. So I will from now on be posting in this so SUBSCRIBE opCorn:
Here are some of the links of my adventures so far:
On to todays question. Im in the process for gathering parts on for an 8.8 swap. I ran across the teraflex upper adjustable rear shock mounts for $24.99 normally $126.99. Should I jump on it? Does anyone have it? Do you like it? Problems? I know I can build my own, but that seems pretty cheap.
EDIT: seems like these could cause issues with an anti wrap bar. I may have answered my own question
Double EDIT: Inserting to keep first page updated:
Rig: 1987 AMC Wrangler (Black) Engine: IROC 5.7L Tuned Port Injection Transmission: NV4500 MT8 5 speed (internal slave) Transfercase: NP241C Axles: 79 Ford HP60, 03 AAM 10.5 Wheels: 17x8.5 Raceline Monster RT232 beadlocks Tires: 37x13.5x17 Toyo M/T Lift: SOA HD 0" springs, 1/2" booms
Mods: Updated 6-22-17
Suspension/Steering: Ruffstuff SOA spring perches Bilstein 5125 14"/12" shocks Energy Suspension poly sway bar bushings NWF Hi-steer arms Bronze Kingpinbushings Solid Axle Industries knuckles Wagoneer pitman arm 1 Ton hi-steer links Crown HD 6 leaf springs Ground & Pound ½" Boomerang Shackles Prothane 1" Body lift Astro van hydro boost
1.25 bore Master Cylinder Derale 10" Aluminum Power steering heat sink Power steering filter
Drive Train: Advance Adapters SBC engine mount Home built above frame transmission cross member with poly bushings Energy Suspension poly motor mounts Ruffstuff diff covers F&R Lube lockers F&R 35 Spline 4340 Chromo front shafts w/ Spicer life joints Yukon Hardcore lockouthubs Spartan Locker Dana 60 ARB Locker AAM 10.5 Solid pinion spacerAAM 10.5 5.13 Gears Seals-it outer axleseals Dana 60 M14x1.5 front wheelstuds Dana 60 Flange Yoke F&R Cutthroat 4x4 NP241 clocking ring JB Super Short SYE w/ 1310 CV yoke Adams CV driveshaft (clearanced CV) Summit 8mm Wires MSD street fire coil Performance cam Corvette 2.5" Rams horn manifolds Home built 2.5" mandrel bent y-pipe and Exhaust Highflow Catalytic converter Magnaflow Stainless muffler Home built cold air intake K&N filter Outerwears Prefilter Performance Camshaft Oil pump pick up retainer Modified K1500 Transfer case shift linkage Ruffstuff DIY traction bar Home Built CV front Drive shaft Home built Battery tray DieHard Platinum AGM Group 65 Battery 140A CS144 Alternator A/C compressor relocation brackets Sanden 7 piston A/C compressor Champion 3 Core aluminum Radiator w/ Stainless overflow Ford Contour Dual Fan w/ FAL variable speed controller 4 Point battery bus bar Hella accessory fuse block Mechanical Fuel pressure gauge
Recovery/Armor/Exterior: Family style roll bars Skyjacker grab handles Tow hooks Warn 9.5XP w/ solenoid box relocation (In cab winch controls) Home built winch cover Factor 55 1.5 hawse fairlead Am-steel synthetic rope Pro-Link loaded thimble Pro-comp front bumper w/ shackle mounts Warrior stinger/grill hoop/winch mount High lift jack w/ Isolator Shackles all 4 corners Barnes 4x4 ¼" flat skid Home built rear bumper/spare tire carrier w/ 2" receiver 4&7 pin trailer wiring Smitty Built Snatch block LED Flood lights LED Spot lights LED Eagle eye Rock lights ARB CKMTA12 Aircompressor TJ fender flairs Steel braided front brake lines 20 gallon gas tank upgrade H4 headlight conversion w/ relay upgrade Body mounted bottle opener Under hood tool box Cowl vent scoop
Interior: Smitty Built security console Alpine 9884 CD/Mp3 player Polk DB461P dash speakers Polk DB6502 overhead speakers Polk DB692 rear wedge speakers Rockville 10" powered subwoofer Alpine PDX-F4 four channel amp Dakota SGI-5 signal generator (speedo correction) Half steel doors & soft doors Black Quadra-Top Grant Steering wheel Autometer gauge bezels Autometer Ultra-lite gauges with LED lights (Tach, Speedo, Fuel, Vacuum, Volt,Temp, Oil press) Contour V carling switches (Winch power, Winch In/Out, Engine Fan, Fog/Spot,Rock lights, Compressor, Lockers) Mastercraft Baja RS seats Cobra CB w/Firestick antenna JeepAir A/C C.RES 2 Cargo net SpiderWeb Shade LED interior overhead lighting Home built wooden trunk deck lid
Future Mods: LJ stretch Links/ORI's 4D's Roll cage LS Engine
It's cheap and I run one but I haven't thought about it interfering with an antiwrap bar at all. There are three positions to adjust the shocks so I'm sure you could work around it.
Is $126 normal price or is this one of those bs over price stuff to make it look like its on sale? Ive never really priced them out before. Anti- do you see any added benefits over using the stock mounts?
Anyone know where to get the best price on spicer 2-2-1379? I know I found them before for under $20, but Im having trouble now.
For the 8.8 swap its tough to get shocks that work unless they hang down like the stock Dana 35 and catch on everything. There just isn't enough room for the travel needed even with huge springs. I like mine but I'm also looking at a spring over in the rear soon so that will change the game up a little. And that is the best price on it. If you order it anywhere else its way too expensive. Don't forget the lower mounts too.
OT but my jeep related. I scored some seat belts to today on fleabay. When I swapped roll-bars with a buddy back in Charlotte I forgot to swap the rear female belts that bolt to the floor. Didn't realize the sport style lap belt females were twice as long. Basically making the shoulder strap useless. Although I do have future plans for TJ roll-bar/soft top swap. YJ soft tops are just to much of a PITA to put up and down by yourself. Plus it will match the newly installed TJ fenders
So what welders are people using? In looking to buy a welder cause I wouldn't trust my harbor freight stick welder to soldier a wire! Anyways I'm starting to do research an educate myself better on them. I don't want to completely break the bank getting some crazy 400A welder. It will be used for odds and ends. More importantly it will be used for my 8.8 swap and SOA. Then bumpers and what ever else I can think of down the road. I was looking at a MIG, but I've heard different stories on how big. I've heard for my purposes I would need at least a 150A and I've also heard I should at least get a 220A and i would be better off with stick. What's you guys opinion? What do y'all use for your rig? Thanks!
I personally like my MIG. It's a Lincoln 180 runs on 220v. It works great for welding anything small or big. Lots of guys use a 110v but you got to be careful with what you get, as you have found out with your harbor freight one. I started out learning on our ranch with a stick, then taught myself with a MIG. They are super easy to use and welds look much better than my stick welds. I like the Lincoln since its a very affordable welder but can still weld on par with a Miller or Hobart.
I ordered a front female buckle out of the 92-95 from ebay. It has a bend in the plastic casing. Has anyone fixed this before? I am not sure if it is a thermoplastic. I have some ideas either heatgun or if I can manage to get the seatbelt out then maybe try putting the plastic in boiling water to try to soften it so I can reset it straight. Has anyone tried this???
If you have an outlet and enough money you should do a Miller/Lincoln/Hobart 180 MIG. If you need to go cheaper, I strongly recommend the Hobart 135 MIG. It can lay strong welds with good penetration to that 8.8 axle. You just have to go full power, low speed, .35 wire and I use CO2 for my hotter stuff. It has a much lower cycle life due to running hot but gets it done.
And before anyone questions my welds, yes I've done plenty of bad welds so I know the difference. I started out with pretty and weak welds. Then I started laying really ugly and strong welds. Now they are unintentionally looking better as I focus on heat, pushing/pulling, puddle, proper wire, line speed, prep, etc. It turns out the machine has been very capable...I was the problem,
Today was a great day. I finally went through my first tank of gas since swapping the transmission, fixing the vacuum leaks, and fixing a all the check engine lights. For the first time since u have owned my jeep (2004) I got over 200 miles to the tank. I ended up with 12.9 mpg. That is a far cry from the, 6 mpg I was getting before and I definitely wasn't light on the skinny pedal. I know the 4.10's are to tall for the v8 I'm sure I would get better mpg with 3.73's, but for me awesome day :thumbsup:
Well she's been running good so no new build update. However if anyone is within a days drive of Daytona FL then I definatly suggest they go to Jeep Beach this weekend! http://www.jeepbeach.com/index.html check it out! Its going to be awesome!
I was wanting to know what is a good price for a full float dana 60 rear with drum brakes and 410 gears? I guy wants to sell me one for 275. He also knows a guy that wants to buy my dana 35 for $250. So basically I would pay $25 bucks for the axle. What is your thoughts? Is a drum dana 60 worth $275? If not does it really matter cause he is hooking me up with a guy that will buy my 35 for 250? I have to make this desision soon cause the guy needs the asap for a daily driver. An axle upgrade is long over due for me soo is this the opportunity I should jump on???
I started to service the winch I bought on CL. I got all of the planetary gears removed, cleaned with purple power and a few cans of brake cleaner. No rust! Then regreased and re assmbled. I have to wait on a gasket though, it didnt make it through. The Warn customer service said I had a 90% chance of being able to reuse it... well I guess im the 10%. Here are some pics.
Cracking it open
1st set of gears
Thrust bushing
2nd set of gears
I didnt take a picture of the 3rd set of gears, but they were behind the second set. Here is the sliding ring gear. Notice the grooved side faces toward the winch drum. It must go back in that way.
All cleaned up!
Greased and re-assembled (minus the other side of the housing)
Need to do:
-re-tap the hole in the drum to mount the winch rope
-tap the new tie rods I ordered. (cannot believe they are not tapped from the factory)
-Dis assemble motor and clean
-gather parts to wire solenoids to be relocated under the hood
-pick up new bumpers :2thumbsup:
Sweet! I have always looked for used winches but never find the one i want. Maybe someday.
Sweet builds..... Build!
As far as welders go i went with 220 becuse i liked the duty cycle better. I am using a weldmark 187. It is made by hobart/miller only cheaper. I use 75/25 gas mixture with .030 or .035 wire deopends on cost. I use .023 for sheet metal work.
As far as upper shock mounts i was at a crossroads with my 8.8 swap. I made my own custom upper bar and custom lower mounts mounted to my home made u bolt skid plates. The upper i made has full motion of the shock mount thru it's travel forward and left to right. It also keeps my shocks up some and puts them in a better position.
Sweet! I have always looked for used winches but never find the one i want. Maybe someday.
Sweet builds..... Build!
As far as welders go i went with 220 becuse i liked the duty cycle better. I am using a weldmark 187. It is made by hobart/miller only cheaper. I use 75/25 gas mixture with .030 or .035 wire deopends on cost. I use .023 for sheet metal work.
As far as upper shock mounts i was at a crossroads with my 8.8 swap. I made my own custom upper bar and custom lower mounts mounted to my home made u bolt skid plates. The upper i made has full motion of the shock mount thru it's travel forward and left to right. It also keeps my shocks up some and puts them in a better position.
I got it all back together. I skipped the motor cleaning for now (getting impatient). Well taking apart the planetary gears and putting them back together is about impossible to mess up. I put the 3rd (large) planetary gears in backwards and tried to reassemble and guess what. The drum wouldn't go on all the way. So I fixed that, got my tie rods tapped for the new stainless hardware I got from ace. Rubbed it down with alcohol and put the replacement way too expensive stickers back on. Now just waiting for the winch mount and debating on weather or not to relocate the solenoid box. I have to buy new battery cables regardless. Thoughts?
While I'm STILL waiting on my winch mount I decided to crack open the box with my hawse fairlead. It is billet aluminum and I decided it wasn't bling bling enough so I used my headlight restoration kit to polish it. Worked like a charm. Forgot to take a before pic. Me likey
In preparation for the winch mount coming on Wednesday, I made the decision to relocate the soleniod box.
Once I decided on the location I used a pizza box from last night for the mount template.
I know you like my home made break :idea:
Ready for some holes
Drill press makes life alot easier
Welded it up. Go ahead flame away for the booger welds, but I dont think many people can do much better with what im working with and no auto darkening helmet (see next pic). Nothing a grinder wont fix though.
:welder: and yes those sticks are probably over 10yrs old
Test fitting it... Like a glove!
More pics from test fit. Im happy with the results.
...and more
After the test fit I taped off the contact area and put a couple of coats of primer down then put down a couple layers of Plastidip. Hopefully this should be effective corrosion control on the mated surfaces.
Layed a couple of coats of primer and Sprayed a few coats of the left over wheel paint I had from painting the winch. It looks silver because of the lighting, but its really gunmetal. Going to let it cure over night and mount it up tomorrow. I will need to measure all my 2AWG wire leangths to wire it up. Ill wait until I know what im working with when the mount comes in.... man im getting antsy.
1) I guess all wire gauge is not created equal. I bought some black 2 gauge wire from Orielie's and lugs for 2 gauge wire. They only had 12 feet and I needed another 7 more. So I went to Napa and bought 7 feet of red 2 gauge wire for my power lead to solenoid box. It was over $4/ft at Napa (spit your drink out now). Well you get what you pay for. The lugs fit perfectly over the Orielie's 2ga, but not happening on the Napa wire. They are both marked 2ga but I'm going to need 0ga lugs for the Napa wire.
2) In the wiring diagram it says the wire that comes out of the female pigtail on the controller box is supposed to go to the motor ground (the bottom post on the winch motor) . I will have a 2 gauge ground wire going to that post already but I really don't feel that the controller ground must go to that post. I feel like it can go to any chassis ground. A ground is a ground no matter where you ground it right? Does anyone know if it's absolutely necessary that I run it to the winch motor ground? I would rather not cut splice and extend that wire when I have plenty of places to ground it on the fender. What do you guys think?
3) Post F1 is the only post that gets a positive signal correct? From the wiring diagrams I have found online has it as the only red wire running to the winch. I color coded my wires that way, but I'm just curious.
4) going to wait for the winch mount tomorrow to cut and lug the ends. Also waiting to determine if I'm going to rout them through the grill slats or under them.
Now I know this is not the same winch but it gives you a better visual picture... Does that Black wire comin from the controller HAVE to go to motor ground or can it go to any ground?????
Well I might as well call this winch/bumper install "Murphys law install."
The first issue I ran into was warriors winch mounting holes I noticed the minute I bolted up the fairlead.
I mounted the winch in hopes there may be enough room. There wasnt even enough to put the nut on the back. So to correct that problem I re drilled all 4 holes 3/4" closer to the grill.
Issue #2 when I went to install the stinger the hood loop hit my fenders b/c my 2" body lift.
So I busted out the jig saw and angle grinder.
#3 Because I ordered the stronger thimble on my rope. My hook would not fit on it. So I splurged and got the Factor 55 prolink loaded.
#4 Due to the amazingly contradicting information on the web about spooling a synthetic line i just spooled my winch using hand tension. So of course on the first pull the outer wraps where digging into the lower wraps.
#5 Today I wrapped it neat using the ebrake as tension to pull my jeep in. It wrapped nice, but I noticed some fibers on the bottom of my fairlead. I dont like that. I wasnt paying attention when it first started wrapping, but towards then end it was absolutly pulling down on the bottom of the fairlead causing it to rub and making it a PITA to get the protective sleeve to spool in with the line. I feel like the fairlead should be mounted lower (would require drilling new holes again, and grinding out the opening more on the mount! :rantscream: )
Anyone who has a synthetic line:
-Is there an a downward angle on the rope between you fairlead and your last wrap?
-What is the distance from the top of the mounting plate to the center of the fairlead mounting hole? Thanks!
Anyone who has a synthetic line:
-Is there an a downward angle on the rope between you fairlead and your last wrap?
-What is the distance from the top of the mounting plate to the center of the fairlead mounting hole? Thanks!
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