hey all- im a 24yr old from upstate NY. i dont have a jeep yet, but in the near future i hope to purchase a mid 90's wrangler. i hope to get a lot of useful info from you guys. first i need to know what to look for and what not to in a used jeep (cant afford new at this point) any and all help is appreciated guys. this may be a dumb question to some of you, but were all hard top wranglers designed to be able to be removed? which motor is more reliable? the I4 r the I6? it will be mostly used as a daily driver with some light off-roading, nothing too serious (yet)
thanks again all
my 2 cents-
ive got a 2.5 '89 YJ, and i couldnt be happier with it. I'm approaching 115K miles and the engine starts up every time and feels solid and idles smoothly.
Hardtops are cool, pretty quiet and will prob hold heat in better in the winter, upstate NY can get cold, i know.
Of course this is just 1 model, 1 engine, but for a 13 year old jeep, its still got power and looks great.
goodluck finding your jeep
1989 Wrangler YJ Red
4-cyl 2.5 L
15x7 OutLaw II
NEW: distributor cap,rotor,spark plugs,wires,fuel filter,ccv&pcv, steelhorse console...
I had a 95 YJ w/ the 2.5l - it's what made me love Jeeps so much
You will apprciate the hard top once october/november come around however if you can, get one with dual tops because don't forget about our hot summers I once left my hard top on til June and I had to pull over for a pit stop because I was about to pass out from the heat. I'd say the most reliable engine would be the 2.5l, mine took alot of abuse, and I see alot of people saying they have well over 100k on them.
When you go to look for it, make sure 4wd works, check it out, make sure it doesn't make any LOUD noises when engaging/disengaging, it will make some but only a little pop/click noise. Check the springs for any cracked leafs. Also look on the skid plates, if you see alot of scratches it's been dragged alot. And check out to make sure the vent system still works, keep in mind if it doesn't its no big deal, cables for both levers will only run you $60 but if it doesn't work, it would make for a good barganing lever to lower the price
The only problem that I've run into is that the Catalytic converter has needed to be replaced twice. Once on recall and again about a year later. The second time I think was because of a bad muffler caused by the first recalled converter. I also had to replace the starter but I actually enjoyed replacing it myself which is a big plus. Jeeps are easy to work on.
The 4.0 is a gas hog and the 2.5 does fine unless you have large hills to climb. If you expect to be in hilly areas and expect to pull a lot of stuff then the 4.0 will be worth it.
A Hard Top is a must if you live in an area where it gets really cold. I don't have one and haven't suffered for it but I live in VA, which never gets really cold. Just remember that you need to find a place to store your hard top in the summer.
Once you get your Jeep subscribe to the 4WD Hardware mag. It is totally devoted to Jeeps and will make you drool.
<a href="http://www.4wd.com" target="_blank">http://www.4wd.com</a>
I've got the old I6 4.2L and she stills runs great, even with just over 200K....
Jeep: '88 YJ Laredo I6, Kenwood Deck, Amp and 6x9's, 10" pioneer sub, 2.5" Skyjacker Kit with a 1" body and new front shackles, 32" Mud Kings on 8" Desert Crawlers, CJ style replacement mirrors, ditched the trackbars and the endcaps
Are all the people in here 2.5 owners?? oh well the 4.0is very good too, it may suck gas but it can handle alot higher speeds better on the highway. My brother has one in his cherokee too and its the only strong thing on that car after 120k. I plan on taking mine well past that. As for the hard top make sure you get ac or have a good place to store the hard top in the summer because theres nothign like having a jeep in the summer.
Black 2012 JKUR 2.5" Rock Krawler Max Travel suspension with Bilstein 5100's, 35X12.5R15 MTRK's on MB Ultras, Sleeved and gusseted front axle with Synergy balljoints, JCR bumpers F/R
Old Jeep, SOLD:
94 Green YJ SE 4.0L 5spd
3.5" BDS lift, 1"MML/BL, Revolvers, SYE/CV, no track bars or sway bars, MORE sport cage
Green Jeep Club Member #20
The 4.0 sucks no more gas than the 2.5, because it works much less. Go with the 4.0L or you'll kick yourself later. If you're using it as a daily driver, you'll be much better off, better passing power, better towing, better hills, better everything.
I'm not knocking you 2.5 owners, but the 4.0 also has a better longevity record. I have seen many 2.5's dead after 100,000, but 4.0's are never dead anywhere near as low miles as that, unless something is grossly wrong due to poor maintenance or nasty abuse. Most go well past 200,000 with proper maintenance.
thanks for the info guys- i will prolly go with the 4.0 for towing power, so i can tow the jetski to and from the lake.. hopefully i will be in a wrangler sport by the end of july at the latest. what is the towing capacity for a 4.0? two jetskis on a fairly light trailer are ok right?
I towed a car trailer with a 68 firebird about 70 miles once. it was way to much for the jeep i know. first gear was tough but once i got her moving it drove fine. dearched my springs big time. 2 seadoos on a trailer no problem
major work done on a 4.0
KEEP IT JEEP!!!!!!!!!!
I have owned three jeeps, all with the 6 cyl. in them. It is the only way to go. Also, you should definitely get a hard top with the full steel doors for the winter time. I am also from upstate NY, and if you ever want to go 4 wheelin, let me know. There aren't too many people up here that go out, not like out west anyway, so I would be glad to help you out. Good luck.
01 Sport, 4.5" RE LA, 35" BFGs, 4.88 gears in Dana 44s, ARB up front, Eaton E-locker in back, Warn XD9000i, and a bunch of other goodies.....
Previously: 01 TJ on 32s, 94 YJ on 33s, 89 xj on 31s, 97 TJ on 31s, 79 CJ5 on 31s.