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Unread 08-20-2011, 10:53 AM   #31
magnetman
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Awesome, thanks!

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Originally Posted by Grenadierbeef View Post
Hey Magnetman here are a couple of pics of mine done in white. They were taken with my cell phone so they could be better

















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Unread 08-20-2011, 11:45 AM   #32
hesserdude07
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Monsta liner or raptor liner are def the best line of DIY... I've done both in the shop i work in. And i like it better than most "pro sprayed" places.
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Unread 08-20-2011, 12:07 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hesserdude07 View Post
Monsta liner or raptor liner are def the best line of DIY... I've done both in the shop i work in. And i like it better than most "pro sprayed" places.
Did you roll or spray Monstaliner?
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Unread 08-20-2011, 12:50 PM   #34
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Used Raptor liner (Sprayed on) with excellent results - liked the texture better than what i seen with the monster liner.
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Unread 08-20-2011, 01:04 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KKirk View Post
Used Raptor liner (Sprayed on) with excellent results - liked the texture better than what i seen with the monster liner.
Then you have never seen Monstaliner sprayed





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Unread 08-20-2011, 01:19 PM   #36
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Ya know, quality aside, You have to love and respect the fact that Magnet is here so much and so readily available to answer any and all questions or concerns anyone may have with his product. That level of customer service alone is reason enough for me to buy and use his products.
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Unread 08-20-2011, 01:26 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 92 Green YJ View Post
Ya know, quality aside, You have to love and respect the fact that Magnet is here so much and so readily available to answer any and all questions or concerns anyone may have with his product. That level of customer service alone is reason enough for me to buy and use his products.
Thank you man. I'm getting ready to post something that will hopefully clarify some confusions that many have about bedliners. Get ready to read alot
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Unread 08-20-2011, 01:30 PM   #38
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Desert sand???
I think this semester I'll borrow a couple textbooks or something and put that cash for monstaliner instead
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Unread 08-20-2011, 01:34 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by magnetman View Post
Thank you man. I'm getting ready to post something that will hopefully clarify some confusions that many have about bedliners. Get ready to read alot
My pleasure. Your level of customer service means a lot, especially in this community. Soon as i get my next check I will be placing my order for the Zombie Sunset. Want to finish a few other odds and ends up on the YJ then I'll be ready to it up.
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Unread 08-20-2011, 02:41 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jvallery View Post
I get the point... I'm just nervous about spraying something that is very difficult to remove on. I'm putting a ton of money into my Jeep and I would hate to be in a situation where I'm not satisfied with the result yet I don't have an easy way to replace it.

@Magnetman - Since you say Line-X is the best of the professional bunch how would you compare it to your product? What are the advantages of Line-X? What are the advantages of Monstaliner besides costs?
As stated before, people don't install bedliners with intentions of removing them, ever.
Look closely at the photos people post in my vendor thread and look at photos people post of any bedliner job anywhere. You can tell what results you will get from what you see. You don't have to spray to get awesome results you just need to approach the project in steps with a little planning. Spraying is also an option you still have which involves a little different planning. Avoid mistakes by choosing a product with an untarnished reputation. If you don't like "bedliner" in general after installed, put carpet back. The one major thing you will have gained is is a tub that won't rust out from inside.
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Been meaning to write the following for a long time so here it is in much more detail than you asked for. My background is in coatings and I have seen products like Line-X installed a number of times. I understand the chemistry but I am not an authority on LX type products. It's not brain surgery though.

Line-x, Rhino and other contractor spray-in liners are different chemistry than Monstaliner, Raptor, Herculiner, etc. I call them contractors instead of professionals because that's all they are. Painting contractors in a commercial building that own an expensive spray rig not available to the DIYer. Many are reputable and do great work. A small group do shoddy work and skimp on materials so they can quote lowball prices. In most cases, a cheap lowball quote is a thin cheap trash job with little if any correct surface prep.

Line-x is considered a polyurea. It contains no solvent and consists of 2 viscous liquid components that get heated and pumped to a special spray gun through 2 separate hoses that converge at the gun. It's called plural component spray. Even the hoses are heated to prevent the material from thickening as it moves through the hose. The components get blended at the gun and the mixture is forced out the tip under very high pressure, more than 20 times the pressure of regular paint spraying. This material can not be sprayed through conventional spray equipment 1st because it's too thick, 2nd because it cures in only seconds. There's no other way to apply without the specialized spray rig. Think of hot honey that cools and turns to a brick in less than 10 seconds.

Sprayed polyurea is like a layer of hard plastic. At correct thickness it is very tough. It can be built up while spraying to 1/4" thick or more. Some shops that quote low prices for Line-X or competitive polyurea products are spraying it thin, maybe only 1/16" or even less. I would say that 1/8" or closer to 3/16" thick is probably the norm. A pickup bed could get as much as 7 to 9 gallons to build the thickness these products are typically installed at. 175 mils thickness is probably the norm with a correct polyurea installation. This translates to 0.175" thick or just less than 3/16". If you've ever seen an old failing Rhino job you will notice that in most cases, something broke the coating layer and it's lifting off the bed. The thickness you can see at the broken edges in never usually as thick as described above. These are shoddy jobs because if the coating was correct thickness it would not have broken and if the bed was prepped correctly it would not be delaminating from the painted surface below.

The texture of a polyurea liner is regulated by the technique of the person spraying. He has considerable control which is regulated by pressure and gun distance to the surface. There is no abrasive particle matter in polyurea liners. The final dusting layer is what makes the texture.

DIY bedliners are all modified paints. Automotive paints, polyurethanes, epoxies, even water base acrylic or water base polyurethanes. Many are single part, some have 2 components that get mixed at time of use. Any 2 part catalyzed coating is always going to outperform a 1 component coating in terms of hardness, abrasion resistance and long term durability. Being 2 component does not mean the product is UV stable. There are 2 component products that still will fade in the sun.

There are two terms used when categorizing products as to their UV stability or not. "AROMATIC" is a type of polyurea or polyurethane that is NOT UV Stable. "ALIPHATIC" is the type that IS UV Stable. The original Rhino Liner was an Aromatic polyurea that did not have UV stability. Since that product, there have been many advances in polyurea chemistry and formulation that has yielded both straight Aliphatic polyureas and HYBRID polyureas that are blends of both Aromatic and Aliphatic systems. This can get much more technical here but I'm avoiding that.

Most DIY liners use some kind of particle matter to create texture and all of these DIY items contain solvent or even water. Herculiner, Durabak and the Duplicolor solvent base product are the most well known roll-on DIY liners. Herc & Durabak are the same exact product from a factory in S. Africa and uses ground up tire rubber particles for texture. Not sure if the Duplicolor solvent base product has particles or not. "Bed Armor" is new from Duplicolor (made by Sherwin Williams) and is a water base polyurethane with Kevlar which they claim makes it stronger. This is complete BS. The Kevlar is an alternate to crumb rubber for texture, not as sharp or rough as texture using crumb rubber.

OK enough background info. To answer your question: Comparisons & Advantages

Line-X
Plus Side: is going to be tougher than any DIY liner. It's going to be 3 to 5 times thicker than any DIY product if installed to recommended specs. It should be easy to clean if not installed with too much deep texture. If you buy it at the premium level it claims to be UV stable not to fade or discolor.

Minus Side: It's going to cost 4, 5 even 10 times what DIY will cost. It's going to add 60 to 90 lbs to your ride. If you shop it to death and find a someone to install it cheap you could be buying an inferior install (too thin, quick and poor surface prep)

Monstaliner
Plus Side: Reasonably priced at the high end of the DIY product category. Pretty easy to install if you're not a slob and you read the install guide. It is very tough - just ask anyone who has used it. When rolled it can look almost like it was sprayed. Looks different than any other DIY product on the market. Extremely uniform, bumpy textured appearance. Absolutely no rough particles to hold dirt or mud and this makes it very easy to clean with a hose and soft scrub brush. No skin removed when you rub against it. 100% UV permanent and won't chalk, fade or discolor and this is guaranteed for 5 years minimum.

Minus Side: A little more expensive than the remaining crowd of DIY liners. You're going to break a sweat to install it. It's not indestructible but neither is any other DIY product. If you don't like reading directions we would rather you choose another product to DIY.

Cost is always the first thing everyone looks at. Functionality, durability, longevity then come into question. For a pickup bed with heavy, abusive use, polyurea liners are going to outlast any DIY liner, any day of the week. If you dump a 1/4 ton of gravel in a pickup bed and then shovel it out, Line-X will withstand this where you will trash a DIY product. In a jeep tub, it's the opinion of many, that Line-X or any contractor spray-in is way overkill and you could spend your money more wisely on accessories and more important mechanical upgrades. For those insistent on spending because they can or because anything less that the thought of not having it all is where it's at.. Line-X or similar is the choice.
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Unread 08-20-2011, 04:10 PM   #41
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Thanks for the explanation and comparisons
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Unread 08-20-2011, 04:20 PM   #42
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I spray all my bed liner kits, i dont care what brand it is.


Its all about prep, weither its paint, primer, clear, bed liner, or whatever ur doing. Prep it right and it will last and look better in the long run!!
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Unread 08-20-2011, 04:23 PM   #43
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Wow that's good information.
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Unread 08-20-2011, 06:00 PM   #44
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@Magnetman - Thanks for the incredible detail! I'm obviously leaning toward Monstaliner given you clear dedication to supporting your customers. Before I pull the trigger though I'd like to review the spray instructions. Where could I find the step-by-step guide for applying both Monstaliner and chassis saver via a gun?

Thanks
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Unread 08-20-2011, 07:50 PM   #45
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after and before. rolled on.
img_1000000306.jpg   img_1000000307.jpg   img_1000000308.jpg   img_1000000302.jpg   img_1000000301.jpg  

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