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Go Back JeepForum.com > Models > Jeep Wrangler Forums > YJ Wrangler Technical Forum > Installing RE 2.5" this weekend...need advice...

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Old 03-26-2008, 01:24 PM   #1
BigheapinYJ
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1995 YJ Wrangler 
 
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Installing RE 2.5" this weekend...need advice...

The big install is this weekend. I got myself and my buddy, a floor jack, 4 jack stands, basic mechanics tools, grinder, drill, torch, etc.

I've PB'd all connections every other day starting about 2 weeks ago.

For those who have installed this kit, any tips/hints/warnings/advice?

No plans for a CV or SYE, so im praying for no vibes after install.

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Old 03-26-2008, 01:39 PM   #2
shinigami
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i installed the 2.5" on the side of the street. it will take about 3 hours if you havnt done this before. the only thing that was a pain PITA was laying on your back getting your u-bolts to torque. MAKE SURE EVERYTHING IS TO SPECIFIED TORQUE! and re-torque everything after 50 miles. it is a very easy process. I rate it as a 12 pack of beer job and a pizza.
edit: i installed the 1" t/c drop and i get no vibes. if you havnt replaced ur u-joints at all, now is the time. and you might want 2 jacks.
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Old 03-26-2008, 01:44 PM   #3
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Use loc-tite or anti-sieze on all threads...you'll like it later on!
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Old 03-26-2008, 02:23 PM   #4
blake989
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IIRC their u-bolts don't come with lockwashers.....I recommend getting some. Sawzall and new shackle bolt for the driver side rear shackle to frame, unless you know the bushing removal trick to get it out without dropping the tank.
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Old 03-26-2008, 03:28 PM   #5
sebastian22
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if you got the standard 2.5 kit i would recommend also changing the frame bushings while youre at it. if you got the extreme duty kit, i believe they come with it.
also, a hole saw kit comes in handy for removing old seized bushings, or the rear driver side bushing. i just drilled mine out.
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Old 03-26-2008, 03:53 PM   #6
Matt_vs_YJ
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Be sure to hit the sway bar links with LOTS of PB.

Don't bother with reinstalling the front track bar. You probably wont need it and the relocation bracket requires drilling.

I did mine myself and it took about 8 or 9 hours, but I wasn't in a rush. Don't expect to get it done in 3 hours, and you won't be disappointed.

An impact gun helps for taking stuff apart. Keep a couple 3/4" sockets laying around so there will always be one within reach. Most of the suspension bolts are 3/4".

I got a torque wrench from Harbor Freight for about $20, if you don't have one, you'll need to get one or borrow one.

I had some vibes, but I also installed MORE 5/8" shackles (HIGHLY recommended). The TC drop and shims fixed the vibes till I can do a CV shaft.
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Old 03-26-2008, 03:59 PM   #7
Snipeston
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I replaced all my hardware with Grade 8 bolts. Had to cut half of my old stuff to get it off...
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Old 03-26-2008, 04:54 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blake989 View Post
Sawzall and new shackle bolt for the driver side rear shackle to frame, unless you know the bushing removal trick to get it out without dropping the tank.
If you can pull the outer bushing out first, it will give you room to tilt the bolt downward far enough for the head to clear the gas tank.
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Old 03-26-2008, 08:39 PM   #9
TxYJ
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Beg, borrow or steal an impact wrench. It is invaluble for this job - even if you've pb'd everything. Oh yeah and a bfh is another critical tool.
Also go slow if you have to pound out the bolts - mine wouldn't budge even after i removed the nuts. I screwed up the threads on the leaf spring bolt at the body and had to wait until i found a replacement (not as easy as you think). Be patient and good luck
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Old 03-26-2008, 09:56 PM   #10
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me and my 2 freinds are lifting mine 2", we figured it would take a weekend due to that fact we are all master b.s ers lol
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Old 03-26-2008, 10:41 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by Philip J Fry View Post
If you can pull the outer bushing out first, it will give you room to tilt the bolt downward far enough for the head to clear the gas tank.

Best advice since PB blaster.
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Old 03-27-2008, 09:21 AM   #12
rugbynut
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shinigami View Post
i installed the 2.5" on the side of the street. it will take about 3 hours
You, my friend, must be a Jeep Jedi Master.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt_vs_YJ View Post
Be sure to hit the sway bar links with LOTS of PB.
I couldn't agree more with every word of Matt_vs_YJ's post. I just did this same job, I used Rubicon shackles, but basically the same job. Those G--D--- sway bar links!!!! I didn't have an impact gun. A long breaker bar with a larger socket set helped me though. As mentioned, a lot of this hardware is 3/4" but there are a few oddball larger ones. Keeping 3/4" standard socket, deep well socket, and box wrench (ratcheting would be nice) handy is sound advice.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Philip J Fry View Post
If you can pull the outer bushing out first, it will give you room to tilt the bolt downward far enough for the head to clear the gas tank.
This tip saved a lot of time and trouble. That bushing will come out, then you can put the bolts back in the 'right' way.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TxYJ View Post
Oh yeah and a bfh is another critical tool.
X2 on the BFH. I used mine A LOT.

Overall, here is what I thought about this kit and job...
I am by no means a hard core mechanic. I can twist a wrench, read a book, and figure things out. All of that being said, I was not impressed with the directions that Rubicon sent. For what they charge for these kits, they can include one more piece of paper and detail things a little better. A few more pictures wouldn't hurt either. The parts lists and directions are minimal, at best. I don't like the front brake line extensions. I will replace them soon with braided stainless. Also, my kit came a little muddled. The front shocks had no metal sleeves to put into the rubber bushings on the front shock eyes. Later in the job, I found that the rear kit had four and only used two. The stock OEM ones that I pulled off had them and I didn't like the way the new ones didn't. I asked around on here, and I called Rubicon. Nobody seemed to know. Check all the boxes and use them if they are there. It will prevent you from over tightening the shock eye mount and pinching down onto the bushings and/or the shock itself. It will save you time going back and doing that part over, like me.

I am pretty lucky, I suppose. My 94 is in pretty good shape in terms of rust and the general condition of the frame and hardware. I didn't break a single bolt, have to cut anything out, or tear anything up too badly. I did 90% of this project by myself and it is a long and slow job that way. I work in the computer/networking field, and finding friends and/or coworkers who are willing to do this sort of things wasn't easy.



That was long, sorry. PM if you have any specific questions or want any help. I just finished mine this past weekend, so I have a lot of it fresh in my memory.
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Old 03-27-2008, 09:27 AM   #13
shunt
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Just take your time and work safely.....Also don't expect things to go smooth..They probaly won't.

Oh yeah, have fun doing it...!
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Old 03-27-2008, 04:59 PM   #14
wrench0001
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just did this lift last weekend lots of pbb .there are no sleves for fort shocks and did not care for the break line extensions went with ss.exsisting font break lines were a pain to get apart took longer than putting the lift on
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Old 03-27-2008, 05:19 PM   #15
93jeepREDSOX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rugbynut View Post
Overall, here is what I thought about this kit and job...
I am by no means a hard core mechanic. I can twist a wrench, read a book, and figure things out. All of that being said, I was not impressed with the directions that Rubicon sent. For what they charge for these kits, they can include one more piece of paper and detail things a little better. A few more pictures wouldn't hurt either. The parts lists and directions are minimal, at best. I don't like the front brake line extensions. I will replace them soon with braided stainless. Also, my kit came a little muddled. The front shocks had no metal sleeves to put into the rubber bushings on the front shock eyes. Later in the job, I found that the rear kit had four and only used two. The stock OEM ones that I pulled off had them and I didn't like the way the new ones didn't. I asked around on here, and I called Rubicon. Nobody seemed to know. Check all the boxes and use them if they are there. It will prevent you from over tightening the shock eye mount and pinching down onto the bushings and/or the shock itself. It will save you time going back and doing that part over, like me.

.
That was my one big problem with RE, they give you two metal things and the directions say put in extension, and that is it. I ended up putting some braided lines with hard lines and having then done professionally. Other than that is pretty easy, but i also had the 4" kit.
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