This guy said he would sell me his pickup with Dana 60's and 4.10 gears among other off-road mods, and I told him I would prolly strip the truck for goodies for my Jeep. He didn't seem to care but he said I might have to cut the D60's to get them to fit on my Jeep. I don't really know whats involved in an axle change, or how I go about getting the 4.10 into my Jeep, I'm pretty new at this, so I wanted to know if this was a good idea. So here are my questions, any help is appreciated!
Are the D60's bolt in parts for my stock yj?
If not, and I do end up having to "cut" the axles, I'm not clear on how you would do this, since you'd have to like cut it in the middle or something?
Are Dana 60's harder for my Jeep to turn compared to the stock 30/35 setup? I.e. are they ganna make my M.P.G go down/ make on-road handling worse? This Jeep is 95% DD for now.
The D60's are far stronger than the D30/D35. They will be about 7" wider than your stock axles. You can install them, but it will require relocating the rear perches, outboarding the front spring hangers, custom driveshafts, custom steering, a little creative brakeline adaptation, and a brake master cylinder upgrade. If they're Chevy or Dodge axles, you'll need a different transfer case to match up with the front differential yoke for the driveshaft.
Full-width axles have their benefits, and then they have their downsides. Typically you need to run 37" or taller tires with them to allow for enough clearance under the bigger diffs. The wider track-width makes off-camber obstacles more tolerable, and improves articulation, but increases your turning radius.
I was regarding the legality of driving such a beast on the road in states that have lift, tire, and fender flare laws (NM doesn't have much in the way of laws, does it? )
Next to no laws at all.
The only laws that apply in New Mexico are 2 dual-beam headlights, 2 taillights, 1 brakelight, corner markers, 1 mirror, seatbelts, and emissions in some countys. The only ones that are enforced are seatbelts, headlights, taillights, brakelights, and emissions.
They will be about 7" wider than your stock axles. You can install them, but it will require relocating the rear perches, outboarding the front spring hangers, custom driveshafts, custom steering, a little creative brakeline adaptation, and a brake master cylinder upgrade. If they're Chevy or Dodge axles, you'll need a different transfer case to match up with the front differential yoke for the driveshaft.
Wow, I didn't realize there was so much involved ; ;. I'm pretty sure the truck was a Chevy and I definatly don't have the kinda money to do those mods right now but thanks a bunch for gettin me the info. I guess I could just buy the axles off him and hide them in the back of my garage <_<. As for the legal stuff, I know here in MD its illegal for tires to stick out past the fenders
Might be better off searching for the axles out of a Ford F150 or Bronco before they went to IFS front suspension. You'd end up with the driver's side drop for your transfer case. Plus, I think the axles are a little narrower and definately lighter/smaller so you don't need 38" rubber to clear the ground. Maybe even a later model Wagoneer with the driver's side drop.. that would give you a front Dana 44 about 60" wide.. Scout Dana 44 rear 58" wide... those are a few more options for ya...
'80 CJ5 w/AMC360, T176, D44 w/Detroit 4.56, RE 4" YJ lift and 35s..
1991 Black YJ, 2.5, Herculined, K&N, Electric Fan, Posi-Loc, 2" BDS, 31" BFG MT's, American Racing rims, Aussie Locked rear, Tuffy lockboxes, Daystar shackles, AtoZ rockers, SmittyBuilt SRC bumpers, 100W KC Daylighter Fog lights, and more to come….
"Being smart is just like driving a jeep, you still get stuck just farther from help."