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Unread 09-17-2001, 04:35 AM   #1
bonehead99
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1994 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: T Town, Ohio
Posts: 286
Installing body lift on a 94 YJ

I tried to install a body lift on my jeep yesterday afternoon. I removed fan shroud and radiator. I located all the parts to be replaced except the pins in steering column. I then try to loosen a few bolts where the big spacers go and they wouldn't move. We tried a 3/4" impact wrench with no luck. What can I do? Also how hard is it to replace a bushing in the front leafspring it would be the rear bushing?

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94 YJ 4.0 HO 3sp Auto, 3" RC Lift, 1" Shackles, 3" BL, 31x10.50, Pacesetter Armor-Coated Header, Homemade Air Intake w/ K&N
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Unread 09-17-2001, 09:08 AM   #2
OhYeah
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Hey there,

Never really used a Impact wrench for anything. I used a breaker bar on my standard ratchet and was able to get all free. If you don't know already, a breaker bar is just an extended handle made of steal that gives you more leverage on the bolt. I did a 3 in. body lift on my 91 a few years ago so let me know is you have any questions.
Did you say you removed the radiator completely?
LAter,
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91 YJ, 4 banger, 3" Rough Country, 3" body lift, 31X10.5 BFG KO's on 15X10 bajas, K&N, restrictor removed.

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Unread 09-17-2001, 11:00 AM   #3
bonehead99
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1994 YJ Wrangler 
 
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Location: T Town, Ohio
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I didn't completely remove radiator, I just took bolts out. I used a breaker bar and was able to turn alittle bit but they growned and squeaked so I stop(didn't want to break a bolt). Where are the pins in the steering column?
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94 YJ 4.0 HO 3sp Auto, 3" RC Lift, 1" Shackles, 3" BL, 31x10.50, Pacesetter Armor-Coated Header, Homemade Air Intake w/ K&N
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Unread 09-23-2001, 11:56 PM   #4
YJRomeo
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hey bonehead99 man its a pain but i know what the problem is. i had the same one. what happens is there is a nut well its more of a block of steel with thread through it anyway, its in between a piece of metal which is welded to the body. to know what i mean look at where the bolt connects inder the radiator. anyway the block of steel gets rusted and moves around. you can turn the bolt all u want but it wont move, its rusted.
u have 2 options, either you cut the bolt near the bottom and hammer the bolt up to remove the welded piece of metal or you drill or cut around the nut and pull i tout from the bottom. i hammered mine from the bottom and used alot of washers and a nut on the top. whatever you decide, good luck and i hope this helps.
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92 YJ 4.0L w/ 2.5" rancho springs, 1.5" shackles, 3" body, pacesetter headers, flowmaster exhaust, Homemade K&N cold air intake system, 4.11's, lockrights,33x12.5 X-terrains on 15x8 black rockcrawlers. homemade discos... coming soon homemade gas shock hood lift. done everything myself. (not bad for 19 yrs old)
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Unread 09-24-2001, 07:14 AM   #5
OhYeah
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Hey Bonehead,

Try soaking the bolts in some WD-40 for a few days before you make your next attempt. USe your judgement, of you feel like you are a going to break the bolts stop. But they will Squeak and Groan as you said. All of mine did that. But they are very strong bolts, I don't think you could break them. Just make sure to use a strong breaker bar and an even stronger Wratchet and bit and you should be able to get it.

Also the steering pins are here:

Under the hood, you will see where the steering shaft comes throught the fire wall. Up towards the top of it there is a knuckle with a bolt going through it. All you have to do is loosen that bolt, turn the wheel a few time to the left and the right, look and make sure it is not rubbing anything. And then retighten it. That will adjust it.

Later,
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91 YJ, 4 banger, 3" Rough Country, 3" body lift, 31X10.5 BFG KO's on 15X10 bajas, K&N, restrictor removed.

O_O_O_O
o-I_ ___ _ I-o
(O IIIII O)
[_ O__O _ ]
{{}}}--o-{{{}}
{{}}} {{{}}
OoOoOoooOOOoOOO
(oO0O(oOo)0o0O0o()o
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Unread 09-26-2001, 03:44 AM   #6
bonehead99
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1994 YJ Wrangler 
 
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Location: T Town, Ohio
Posts: 286
Ok I have a dumb question, How will I get the old nuts out? Aren't they welded in place?
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94 YJ 4.0 HO 3sp Auto, 3" RC Lift, 1" Shackles, 3" BL, 31x10.50, Pacesetter Armor-Coated Header, Homemade Air Intake w/ K&N
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Unread 09-26-2001, 06:21 AM   #7
jpwranglr9
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Join Date: May 2001
Location: Kalamazoo, MI
Posts: 98
they aren't actualy welded. its more like a spot welded sheat metal cup that surounds the block. that holds it in place and as you tighten it keeps the block from spinning. you realy dont have to get it out unless you did break the bolt. If you did, just hamer up on the broken bolt with a punch and it will break the spotwelded cup. then you have to leave the old blockand broken bolt inside the body.
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Its not what you buy...its what you BUILD!!!
1995 YJ ,SOA with 4" procomp front 3.5" BDS rear 1" shackle rear, custom stearing, 35x12.50x15 pro-comp MTs, warn xd9000i, on-board air from A/C, dana 44 rear and 30 front with 4.56, powertrax no-spin rear, custom disks rear/trutrac front, warn front shafts, HD SYE kit, HD front and rear driveshafts, Warn 4X flairs, PIAA 520 ligts and on and on and on :)
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