Installed new 4 lift and getting a clunk and vib at rolling speed - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 19 Old 09-24-2017, 11:29 AM Thread Starter
bwmatt1
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Installed new 4 lift and getting a clunk and vib at rolling speed

I have a 1995 yj that Im currently adding parts to and we just finished the 4 RC lift and it has vibs and clunks at rolling speed, Im thinking is the pinion angle but they are almost parallel. I havent install the 1 TC drop yet because the nuts spun in the frame so we are currently trying to find a way to get that out and make it work. I included some pictures of my rear driveline.


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post #2 of 19 Old 09-25-2017, 10:01 AM
cyoos
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After you get the transfer case drop installed, please report back on this. You have a pretty "Hmmm-Yeah-Golly-Steep" driveshaft operating angle there. That may well be the problem. If it's not the whole problem, I'd bet it's a major contributing factor.

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post #3 of 19 Old 09-25-2017, 10:02 AM
cyoos
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And welcome to the forum!

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post #4 of 19 Old 09-25-2017, 10:04 AM Thread Starter
bwmatt1
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Cyoos, yeah it is steep, but I dont understand why mine would be steeper than any other jeep that has a 4 lift?


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post #5 of 19 Old 09-25-2017, 10:05 AM Thread Starter
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Thank you very much!


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post #6 of 19 Old 09-25-2017, 10:19 AM
mike134
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Originally Posted by bwmatt1 View Post
Cyoos, yeah it is steep, but I dont understand why mine would be steeper than any other jeep that has a 4 lift?


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They're all a little bit different for some reason. The common advice is, install the lift and then measure your drive shaft angle. Some people seem to be able to get away without the drop on 2.5" lift, others need it. Probably due to vehicle weight and spring compression.
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post #7 of 19 Old 09-25-2017, 10:31 AM Thread Starter
bwmatt1
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Well mike134, hopefully with the TCase drop and some love Ill be able to get it back on the trails.


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post #8 of 19 Old 09-25-2017, 10:37 AM
mike134
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The transfer case drop might get you going again.

Keep in mind that for 4", this is often pretty borderline. The really good way is the slip yoke eliminator. That way you are not reducing your ground clearance under the transfer case.
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post #9 of 19 Old 09-25-2017, 10:38 AM Thread Starter
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Yeah losing an 1-1.5 really isnt going to bother me right now as long as I can get her going again..


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post #10 of 19 Old 09-25-2017, 11:49 AM
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The drop is quick and easy, so I'd definitely do that so you can drive to work. Just make some out of junkyard parts if you have some scrap available.

The slip yoke eliminator sort of requires dropping the transfer case out and modifying it, so its more of a full weekend project with a bit of help to get it in and out.
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post #11 of 19 Old 09-25-2017, 11:50 AM Thread Starter
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The drop is quick and easy, so I'd definitely do that so you can drive to work.



The slip yoke eliminator sort of requires dropping the transfer case out and modifying it, so its more of a full weekend project with a bit of help to get it in and out.


Luckily the YJ is my weekend fun/hunting vehicle. Id be in a world of hurt if it was my work vehicle haha.


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post #12 of 19 Old 09-25-2017, 02:14 PM
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Since you have the time to let the Jeep be out of service, just fix it right. The Jeep is a system, not just a pile of of parts. You change one thing and 6 others need to be addressed to get the whole thing back to a clean system again. Your lift was the 'one thing'. There is no need for band-aid skid drops and such when a SYE kit and repositioned pinion angle (via welding perches, not shims!) is really the best fix for a proper drive line system. Altering a Jeep correctly is never easy on the wallet, no matter how people try.

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post #13 of 19 Old 09-26-2017, 09:07 PM
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Yeah bud that angle is hard core, the 1" drop will likely only improve things a little, I did a 3.5" on my TJ and it wasn't totally good till I did the skip yolk eliminator with a long double cardon drive shaft (after that it was even smoother than stock!). I'm not sure how it is on the YJ, but with the TJ it was pretty easy to install the SYE with the t-case in place. I just held it in place with a ratchet strap and dropped the skid plate out of the way, I think it took me about 6 hours, but that included flimsy snap ring plier failures and having to grind and split a stock ring that was seized and should have just slid off.


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post #14 of 19 Old 09-26-2017, 11:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mots View Post
Yeah bud that angle is hard core, the 1" drop will likely only improve things a little, I did a 3.5" on my TJ and it wasn't totally good till I did the skip yolk eliminator with a long double cardon drive shaft (after that it was even smoother than stock!). I'm not sure how it is on the YJ, but with the TJ it was pretty easy to install the SYE with the t-case in place. I just held it in place with a ratchet strap and dropped the skid plate out of the way, I think it took me about 6 hours, but that included flimsy snap ring plier failures and having to grind and split a stock ring that was seized and should have just slid off.


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yj are a little harder because you have to remove the spring perches on the axle and re-weld back on.

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post #15 of 19 Old 09-26-2017, 11:31 PM
Mots
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yj are a little harder because you have to remove the spring perches on the axle and re-weld back on.

Or just install shims, they aren't as good as rewelded perches, but for a few dollars they're a ton better than waiting and driving around with a bound up drive shaft (if duder doesn't have a welder handy).


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