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Unread 10-08-2013, 08:41 PM   #46
zeus87gn
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DonAltman3 View Post
Jeep had some intake manifold bolts that felt kind of loose and the one closest to cab at rear bottom of engine looks like it came all the way out and got lost........Vaccum was checked it went up to about 21........And I could hear the carb sucking air into it. I didn't hear this before. I guess all the air was being sucked into the manifold. I'm going to go over the manifold again under better cicumstances or pay a shop to replace gasket.
Your words, just together
Get that missing bolt replaced
No need to replace the gasket - get the bolts torqued correctly an check them again in 1000 miles
Quote:
Originally Posted by DonAltman3 View Post
Seemed like a total pita to get to some of those bolts.
It is - I had to use a universal joint on my torque wrench to get them all

Quote:
Originally Posted by DonAltman3 View Post
After tightening them down I tried to start jeep at timing 8 degrees. Would not start without really revving up engine. I could give throttle to keep it running. Tried to up idle speed on accelerator linkage adjustment. Didn't seem to help much. I only turned it a full turn or so before I stopped. I drove it though and seemed strong and a little more peppy.
So at this point you've done the things I've mentioned earlier?

Quote:
Originally Posted by DonAltman3 View Post
Eventually it stumbled but could of been me letting to far off the throttle or not shifting to neutral fast enough to slow down and keep rooms high enough. Once I have them not leaking 100%.
Its completely possible for it to stumble again - give it more drive time

Quote:
Originally Posted by DonAltman3 View Post
Can someone explain to me like I'm five how to properly adjust the carb
Best way to do that is have experienced help show you
Unless there's a video online to explain it
Quote:
Originally Posted by DonAltman3 View Post
Gosh I hope this is going to fix it. Maybe the leak was so gradual I just assumed it was my jeep carb getting more and more "tired"

Thanks again. I'm so happy to have made any progress tonight I'm calling it quits for now while I'm on a high note.


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Unread 10-09-2013, 07:19 AM   #47
zeus87gn
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yzjwk View Post
NOW you agree with me .
before it was and i quote " But you can't set up a carb until the engine is timed correctly
Disconnecting the hose from the vacuum advance takes it out of the picture"
That's right

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Originally Posted by yzjwk View Post
Don I REALLY hope you can get this straitened out , but for now i will bow out and let Zeus try and help .there's more then 1 way to get to the bottom of this but too many roosters in the hen house for me .I know you guys can get this , but please if all else fails, feel free to PM me and i will help as much as possible .
Good luck guys
It's all good, he's got it

Quote:
Originally Posted by DonAltman3
I drove it though and seemed strong and a little more peppy.
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Unread 10-09-2013, 07:54 PM   #48
DonAltman3
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I got the jeep to idle fine. I set timing to 8. The carb set best I could. I hooked up ported vac to the distributor. Set warm idle all seems good. Once running while at a stop, if I stomp the gas it stumbles. I was to let off then press back down and get it to roll...I can punch it and it pulls strong. Is this probably hole shot of the accel pump linkage in front of the carb?


Second problem is that I punched it cruising it pulled good then reached a bog near full throttle higher rpms. I let off and feathered the throttle. It tried to stall but it didn't. A minute or two it ran really boggy like reduced power...a few mintues later nursing the throttle to keep running without stalling it started to better. It ran fine after lettin off the fuel and slowing way down. This I would think might be timing or still leaking vac somehow. The vac pressure increased to about 22 after tightening down the manifold intake manifold.
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Unread 10-10-2013, 07:55 AM   #49
zeus87gn
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DonAltman3 View Post
I got the jeep to idle fine. I set timing to 8. The carb set best I could. I hooked up ported vac to the distributor. Set warm idle all seems good. Once running while at a stop, if I stomp the gas it stumbles. I was to let off then press back down and get it to roll...I can punch it and it pulls strong. Is this probably hole shot of the accel pump linkage in front of the carb?
If the accel pump is shooting gas when you goose the pedal, it's working
In the process of your fine tuning, you may find it works better at the first setting you had it on - you will have to try it once we get your timing sorted out
Quote:
Originally Posted by DonAltman3 View Post
Second problem is that I punched it cruising it pulled good then reached a bog near full throttle higher rpms. I let off and feathered the throttle. It tried to stall but it didn't. A minute or two it ran really boggy like reduced power...a few mintues later nursing the throttle to keep running without stalling it started to better. It ran fine after lettin off the fuel and slowing way down. This I would think might be timing or still leaking vac somehow. The vac pressure increased to about 22 after tightening down the manifold intake manifold.
Vacuum is suction, just keep it in mind
Change the vac adv to manifold vacuum and see how it runs
That's how it's suposed to work
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Unread 10-10-2013, 09:13 AM   #50
DonAltman3
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Just a side question while its on my mind.. would or is it better to run the pcv air line to my air cleaner (has a nipple for it) or to the bottom rear base of my carb (also has a nipple for it)

I have the pcv on rear of engine and the front near oil fill has just a crank case cap breather..

Would moving it to the air cleaner make any differences? Which is proper?
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Unread 10-10-2013, 09:51 AM   #51
zeus87gn
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Leave the breather up front
Run the rear PCV hose to the base of the carb with the actual PCV valve in the rear of the valve cover
If you run anything from the PCV to the air breather, it would be from the front connection, but you have the open air breather so it's not neecessary
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Unread 10-14-2013, 06:42 AM   #52
DonAltman3
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I tried it with timing set at 10 and with manifold pressure.. idles great.. drove fine for a few minutes then same issues.. started to bog.. progressively got worse.. stumbled some... I let off gas.. waiting a minute.. drove okay for a short distance then started messing up again.. any throttle would cuase it to bog and not do anything letting completely off the fuel it would catch up at low rpm feather the gas and I could accelerate a small bit but eventually just bog again.
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Unread 10-14-2013, 07:38 AM   #53
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I know you said you changed the fuel filter. I did the same thing when I put on my 2150. I put a new jeep filter on from autozone. I had problems with the jeep cutting out/bogging at highway speeds. Was puzzled for a while and decided to replace the filter. No problems since.

So it's possible you got a bad filter. I'm not saying it's definitely your problem but you've tried so many things. It's cheap to buy another filter and give it a try.

BTW, I replaced mine with the ford truck filter that screws in to the carburetor rather than the jeep filter. Just capped off the return line. Either filter will work but thought I'd pass along that the stock ford type filter will work.
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Unread 10-15-2013, 09:22 AM   #54
zeus87gn
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DonAltman3 View Post
I tried it with timing set at 10 and with manifold pressure.. idles great.. drove fine for a few minutes then same issues.. started to bog.. progressively got worse.. stumbled some... I let off gas.. waiting a minute.. drove okay for a short distance then started messing up again.. any throttle would cuase it to bog and not do anything letting completely off the fuel it would catch up at low rpm feather the gas and I could accelerate a small bit but eventually just bog again.
Do you have a fuel pressure regulator in your setup?
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Unread 10-15-2013, 09:33 AM   #55
DonAltman3
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not sure if I do...

so the answer is probably no.

Can you be more specific as it is something I am willing to try.
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Unread 10-15-2013, 09:58 AM   #56
zeus87gn
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The FPR needs to be there for the MC carb - it only wants about 3 or 4 psi where the stock fuel pump can put out up to 7 or 8
You may be flooding your carb
If you have the correct 3 port fuel filter, the FPR should go between the filter and the carb
Any leftover pressure will be sent back to the tank

Like this:
p2130209-.jpg

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Unread 10-15-2013, 10:05 AM   #57
zeus87gn
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The FPR is the one I have - Summit Racing
I think I got it at Oreillys

Holley has one too - Jegs - but it's more expensive

The cheaper one is sufficient
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Unread 10-15-2013, 10:43 AM   #58
Que89YJ
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That is what I was asking early on. It sounded like it was loading up with gas after driving it. The pump pushing out more fuel then it could use after driving it. The Jeep seems to do fine at an idle and it is only after he is driving it and getting the rpms up for a while it ends up showing the issue. Get a fuel guage on it and see where you are at.

Also, you did the nutter. The distributor ground is common to overlook when doing it. I would double check it and make sure you are well grounded on it. It will cause an intermittant issue.

Also, someone already mentioned it, did you block off the egr when you did the nutter?

I am not a carb guy. Zeus and a few others here have forgotten more then I learned so I am not going to take away from his advice. I just had a few ideas I thought I would throw in. I am following your thread. Patience and the people here will get you strait.

Time to bring up the past. When the issue started, was there anything, big or small, that you had just changed before the issue started.
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Unread 10-15-2013, 10:45 AM   #59
rocketboy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zeus87gn
The FPR needs to be there for the MC carb - it only wants about 3 or 4 psi where the stock fuel pump can put out up to 7 or 8 You may be flooding your carb If you have the correct 3 port fuel filter, the FPR should go between the filter and the carb Any leftover pressure will be sent back to the tank Like this:
So I don't mean to dispute this. Everyone's rig is different. But my MC2150 runs great with no fuel regulator.

Additionally, it kind of seems like you're not getting enough gas if it's bogging after it idles a while or under load. Like you can't keep the bowl full.

I think you're getting lots of good advise but you're throwing the kitchen sink at this.

Only two things changed when this problem popped up: new carb and new fuel filter. You've worked on the carb and it seems like it's set up right. I think you need to replace the filter (or try running without it) to see if it helps.

I dont know that the filter is the problem. But if it's partially blocked or defective it could be preventing adequate fuel flow to the carb. I think you need to rule that out. Like I said in my earlier post my brand new filter from autozone caused my problems.
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Unread 10-15-2013, 11:59 AM   #60
DonAltman3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Que89YJ View Post
That is what I was asking early on. It sounded like it was loading up with gas after driving it. The pump pushing out more fuel then it could use after driving it. The Jeep seems to do fine at an idle and it is only after he is driving it and getting the rpms up for a while it ends up showing the issue. Get a fuel guage on it and see where you are at.

Also, you did the nutter. The distributor ground is common to overlook when doing it. I would double check it and make sure you are well grounded on it. It will cause an intermittant issue.

Also, someone already mentioned it, did you block off the egr when you did the nutter?

I am not a carb guy. Zeus and a few others here have forgotten more then I learned so I am not going to take away from his advice. I just had a few ideas I thought I would throw in. I am following your thread. Patience and the people here will get you strait.

Time to bring up the past. When the issue started, was there anything, big or small, that you had just changed before the issue started.
I am very grateful for all the help I have gotten so far.

I did block off the EGR system.

The filter has been changed more time than I can count without any difference.. and this is a problem I had with a previous mc2100 that I thought was defective so it was changed.

I have never seen any mention of the FPR in any of the mc2100 information.. not even the stuff I got from the EBAY guy.
I do have the OEM style fuel filter and honestly thought that any "extra" pressure would just be returned to the tank in essence the filter itself was regulating.
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