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Unread 10-05-2013, 08:01 PM   #16
zeus87gn
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old4X View Post
Next, check slack on your timing chain, if over 6 degrees, replace chain and gears.

Next, what vacuum source are you using for your vac advance. Try the other one and se if the problem persists (ported vs manifold).

Next, set the vacuum advance to factory default (8 turns out from the stop) and see if any improvement.
Timing chain slack is definitely something to check especially if you think the chain is original equipment
I'm behind Old4 on the vacuum advance - use manifold vac for this - it's the way they originally were designed to work
I think 8 turns will most likely be to much - if it doesn't seem to help, turn it back in half way and dial it in from there

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Unread 10-05-2013, 08:32 PM   #17
Old4X
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zeus87gn View Post
Timing chain slack is definitely something to check especially if you think the chain is original equipment
I'm behind Old4 on the vacuum advance - use manifold vac for this - it's the way they originally were designed to work
I think 8 turns will most likely be to much - if it doesn't seem to help, turn it back in half way and dial it in from there
The way that can works is somewhat counterintuitive. Screwed all the way in you have full advance all the time, causes heavy ping/ spark knock.

The more it is screwed out, the more vacuum it takes to advance the timing, to the point that screwed all the way out you have no ignition advance from vacuum. It is only used for fine tuning. I have tried both manifold and ported vac sources. I find the manifold vac gives far better driveability for me.
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Unread 10-06-2013, 01:31 PM   #18
DonAltman3
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Ok here's what I got so far


Vacuum at manifold idle is 16. Ported is the same once throttle is given.

I got new fuel line and ran 10 foot into a can in my passenger floorboard jeep ran awesome. I thought I was in the clear. It didn't take long to go through a few gallons. My only guess is that since the return to the tank is still hooked up at the filter most of the gas from my remote can was going back into my jeeps tank. Anyways sure enough it crapped out on me. Wouldn't start. Finally got it started and found it ran fine. I figured a glitch in my remote tank maybe hose wasn't at the bottom or something. Popped hood and onced over everything. Nothing obvious. I decided to finish the rush upgrade when
I noticed the coil cap port wasn't seated all the way. (didn't click down 100%).

I am in the process of replacing all wires again new plugs while I'm at it. Once cap was off I noticed blue green corrosion inside the coil tube on the cap ( the outter part not inside it)



The ignition stuff has been changed. This is the same type stuff that has been happening for a long time. Perhaps I've had multiple problems that all had very similar symptoms. Or perhaps this is totally unrelated but doing this will at least rule all of that stuff out again


After rechecking Timing is at 11 btw and runs like a scalded dog when not having the intermittent problem.


Carb was no smog from erhmannmp set up for my alt and driving. 220 above sea level. 48 jet 8.5 Hg power valve
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Unread 10-06-2013, 03:15 PM   #19
Old4X
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Your engine is way out of tune or you have vacuum leaks (plural). You should be seeing 21" + of vac at idle.

What is your fuel pressure doing during all this?
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Unread 10-06-2013, 06:23 PM   #20
DonAltman3
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Wugghhh

K still same issues going on. Checked timing once again. Yup. 11-12 it kinda bounces between the two marks. Seems to have run better when I moved to 9-10. I used vacuum gauge its at 15 regardless of timing with ported blocked off and using manifold to check. Could I be doing this wrong I used a hand brake bleeder vacuum with gauge to check just took the part u usually go to a bleeder and put the manifold there it pulled 15-16 I released pressure each time a moved the distributor. I got pinging at high throttle at 11-12 timing. None at 9-10 with about the same performance. No noticeable vaccum leaks. Should I have also capped off manifold pressure from the pcv valve too or just ported to distributor vaccum advance? Ps I didn't understand your vaccum advance adjustment turns remark. Do I have to physically adjust the advance valve on the distributor? I"ve never done anything to it but hook a vacuum line to it. However it was originally installed by a mechanic shop perhaps they adjusted it.
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Unread 10-07-2013, 08:31 AM   #21
DonAltman3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old4X View Post
The way that can works is somewhat counterintuitive. Screwed all the way in you have full advance all the time, causes heavy ping/ spark knock.

The more it is screwed out, the more vacuum it takes to advance the timing, to the point that screwed all the way out you have no ignition advance from vacuum. It is only used for fine tuning. I have tried both manifold and ported vac sources. I find the manifold vac gives far better driveability for me.


What can.. how do I adjust it?
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Unread 10-07-2013, 01:27 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by DonAltman3 View Post
What can.. how do I adjust it?
1/8" allen wrench - directly into the center of the port on the vacuum advance diaphragm itself
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Unread 10-07-2013, 01:29 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by Old4X View Post
I have tried both manifold and ported vac sources. I find the manifold vac gives far better driveability for me.
It took me some time to figure it out but I was finally able to put it together
Manifold vacuum is how it's supposed to work
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Unread 10-07-2013, 02:23 PM   #24
DonAltman3
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This might be a silly question but why on earth do all the nutter bypass information say to run distributor vacuum lines to ported?


I got ANOTHER fuel pump I am going to install tonight and I will try to adjust my vacuum advance today as per your instructions.... If this doesn't work I will run manifold to my distributor.

I would think if you do that your ALWAYs running in advance.. and if your doing that why even bother with running it at all why not just up your actual timing? Please don't take this as a condescending post or me questioning you.. I really don't have a clue and am trying to learn something.

Thanks again for your help.. I will try both of these suggestions tonight after replacing the fuel pump again.

PS still haven't found an OE style sending unit or pick up for a jeep with a manual pump.
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Unread 10-07-2013, 02:35 PM   #25
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Your problem fully sounds fuel related. I would replace or rebuild the fuel plunger and check the fuel float. Also check your setting on the plunger to much fuel will stall you just as well as to little when you accelerate.
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Unread 10-07-2013, 03:09 PM   #26
zeus87gn
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DonAltman3 View Post
This might be a silly question but why on earth do all the nutter bypass information say to run distributor vacuum lines to ported?
It's a balancing act - vacuum advance actually works backwards from what most people think

The vacuum advance is supposed to hold your timing 'up' at idle, or low demand rpms
It gives the fuel more time it needs to burn
It also gives you the initial throttle response that you would expect from a correctly running engine

As you push the pedal, the vacuum advance backs off as the mechanical advance (inside the dist) takes over

I've been trying to figure this out since I was 15
I have Old4X to thank for proding me to get it straight

The fun part is getting it adjusted to suit the motor

Any vacuum leaks will negatively contribute to it's overall operation
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Unread 10-07-2013, 03:48 PM   #27
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Anyone mention a simple fuel filter ? It's cheap and causes most of your current issues.
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Unread 10-07-2013, 05:36 PM   #28
DonAltman3
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Sorry fuel filter has been replaced. First thing I did.

I moved whole shot from outter most hole to one closer to carb body. This carb lever has 4 holes on the arm actuator arm in front of carb.

On the linkage side there is also 4 it's on the second to the top hole.



The jeep distributor on manifold pressure was stalling out on take off and full throttle . On vaccum it was stalling at mid throttle mid rpm acceleration

I'm so wanting to sell this jeep I love it but can't figure this out. Erhmannmp has been no help he wont return any emails and I'm pretty sure this is all fuel related.
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Unread 10-07-2013, 07:34 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by DonAltman3 View Post
Sorry fuel filter has been replaced. First thing I did.

I moved whole shot from outter most hole to one closer to carb body. This carb lever has 4 holes on the arm actuator arm in front of carb.

On the linkage side there is also 4 it's on the second to the top hole.



The jeep distributor on manifold pressure was stalling out on take off and full throttle . On vaccum it was stalling at mid throttle mid rpm acceleration

I'm so wanting to sell this jeep I love it but can't figure this out. Erhmannmp has been no help he wont return any emails and I'm pretty sure this is all fuel related.
did you follow my suggestion and plug the vacuum line running to the distributor and set your timing at ~16 deg ?
This hard sets the timing in around it's mid point and takes the advance out of the picture . remember , your not looking for performance or anything yet ,so don't take it out on the dragstrip .your looking for driveability.
Years ago I DD'd my yj with the timing hard set at 16 for a couple months while i narrowed down carb problems .After i had it running perfect i set the timing correctly with the advance reconnected and with just a tweek on the carb It's been running great ever since .
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Unread 10-07-2013, 08:14 PM   #30
DonAltman3
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I some how missed this post. So your saying to advance timing and leave the vacuum advanced capped off. Just to try. Hadn't thought of that I guess it won't hurt to try.
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