Any connection will be put under stress when heat is applied, solder joints can be fine when cold and crap out when hot. Pick-ups like in the dizzy can break down with temp as can the cps.
I suggested a JY dizzy and cps to save valuable resources(money)
pretty sure i got it figured out finally but any additional insight would be greatly appreciated (i'll be installing a new o2 sensor upstream, but, i dont get why it ran good at all, its never had one since i bought it): anyway, after compression test showed 106 in no.1 and 120's in all other cylinders, i sprayed brake brake-clean at the leading edge of the head gasket (not a place i check for vac leaks) and tthe motor stalled out. looks like time to replace the head gasket.
like i said tho, any additional help or things i should check before i proceed would be appreciated, thanks in advance!
suggestions like "while you're at it, you might as well...." are what im looking for.
Last edited by riverhippy; 07-31-2011 at 05:28 PM..
I would suggest that you get the head skimmed but that is all unless you wish to get it freshened while it is in the machine shop.
Congrats on locating that, I wonder why it didn't just let go all the way.
I noticed #1 was low but just put it down to old age.
Skimming will increase CR a little but the main point is to ensure the head is flat and the sealing surface is perfect.
Now would be a good time to de carbon the tops of the pistons, put a piston to TDC, pack the gap between the cylinder and piston with vaseline and scrape the carbon off with something like a quarter, you don't want to use a steel tool because it will scratch the piston.
Polish with a green scotch brite pad and oil. clean out the vaseline and carbon and move on to the next.
Where are you at in Detroit River Hippy? 20 year GF.......damn if that Jeep is the only problem you are going to have. I think her dad might come out and help you change the tires....from underneath the wheel itself. LOL
Seriously though, you can just bypass a sensor. They all act for calibration inputs and you will cause yourself more greif than good by even trying it. Rehook everything up. Disconnect the battery to clear all the codes out that you set when disconnecting the sensors. Start it up and let it run until it happens then check your codes like MJMPC said. This is how:
Your symptoms seem to come down to 2 things: O2 sensor. You said you bypassed it but without it the calibration for fuel in relationship to advance can make it run lean or rich. Also check your exhaust manifold for cracks and missing bolts. again, it will through the cal for the O2 off which is primary for your fuel control. The second and the most obvious is your temp sensor that is in the front by the thermostat housing.
yea...met dad and mom. they weren't exactly hi-fiven n belly-bumpin me. lol. i just screwed up the install on the o2 sensor. it never had one before, so i don't know why it ran well for so long, but, it was cross-threaded so i tapped it with too large of a hole (its now 3/4 x 20). ill check the temp-sensor after i figure out how to unscrew myself now that i have a bigbutt hole where i should have my new o2 sensor...lol
Last edited by riverhippy; 08-03-2011 at 06:28 PM..
Reason: missing words
ok...since i rethreaded the o2 sensor hol with the wrong size tap...can i let the 02 sensor dangle until i get a chance to redo that big *** hole?
No. Having it hooked up and not in the exhaust stream wont do a damn thing. The o2 sensor reads the amount of oxygen in the exhaust and the computer uses this reading to tune the engine as you drive. Take it to a muffler shop and have them put a o2 bung in the exhaust.
Put a cat back on it, reconnect all your sensors, and install them properly. Then try to diagnose your problem.
BTW, we will need pics of 20yr old GF at the beach....