When I bought a used jeep it seemed to run fine...just some blowby with no oil leaking or burning.
The guy selling it to me assumed I was gonna tow it. I said hell no, if I was going to tow it, it was going to have to earn it (break down). I changed the oil right there at the title agency parking lot.
Anyway, she made it 300 miles through a snow storm with no heat, no doors, no wipers, no muffler (just some "cherrybomb", no rear lights and no seatbelts...oh, and no speedo. I asked my friend in a chase car to tell me my speed off of the tach. I was so scared, I exited the freeway and I bought a cargo tie-down and tied myself to the rollbar. (it was my first time in a jeep and felt like I was going to get thrown out).
So with the sense of security, I increased my highway speed from 50 to about 60. Anyway she made it home.
So I figure ok, buy a Haynes and connect the wiring, change the oil again, put in new sparks and put in a REAL muffler. That seems to be when the problems started. Once I put on the muffler (5th amendment on the cat) it seemed to start really blowing oil all over the place. So I figured the valve cover gasket was bad.
I started getting soot blown out the tail. And I was still burning AND leaking oil. (it got to the point where it took a quart to go 20 miles). I put in 5w-30 which I know is a bit thin but it was in December.
So last summer, I picked up a used engine and installed it. It was from a 91+ and mine is an 89. I had to change the alternator bracket, use my original alternator and change all pulleys because mine has the v-belt setup.
Everything fine, right? WRONG!
THEN I read that I should have changed the flywheel. So I took it out and put in the proper flywheel.
Just recently have I had the time to address the jeep again and she had no spark. I finally replaced the crank pos sensor and she finally sparked and coughed like it wanted to start. So I checked the hoses and capped the open one. (from my older engine had a pcv and a ccv.
I am flooding it somehow same as with the older engine. In fact, (I swear) my dipstick is showing like double the amount of oil...the oil is liquidy and smells like gas and I have a puddle of gas under the tranny plate. I took off the valve cover and the oil on top of the rockers are saturated with gas. I took the sparks off and gas was gushing out of the cylinders as I cranked it. Luckily I removed the coil wiring first. There would have DEFINITELY been some kind of fire or explosion even.
I already changed the oil because it was full of gas from the last time I was cranking it.
So now, after all the cranking I did, I burned out the daggum starter.
Ok, Im at my last straw. I do not want to finance a jeep, plus I wanted a square headlight YJ and not a TJ and TJs are about all that they'll finance because of the age.
I JUST GOTTA HAVE A JEEP!!! There is no alternative.
I have missed most of the snow plowing chances but the Summer is coming.
I was gonna rebuild the old engine and put it back in but I think Pullapart is calling my name. They are offering $200 a ton.
The only thing I can think of is that there is a problem with the injector sticking open.
Well, I guess I will check the archives but does anyone have any suggestions?
Second... no dead horse. You're very close to it - no sense in turning back now. It does sound a lot like a bad injector. You should be able to tell by taking it out and turning the key on (no cranking). If it's leaking, it'll be really obvious - it'll spit & spray & squirt. It'll be under high pressure, so keep flames FAR AWAY and don't point it at your hand or anything else that might seem hazardous.
It's been a while now since I've been under the hood of a FI Jeep - last was an '89 Cherokee... but I don't think mine ever squirted gas until the computer decided it had cranked at least one full revolution (so it could figure out where the timing should be) and was ready to start it. I could sit there & turn the key on & off all day long (fuel pump would crank each time) & never get into trouble starting it.
What's your fuel pressure like? Maybe you've got too MUCH fuel pressure 'cause the regulator quit regulating?
Check pressure at the fuel rail (there's a fitting for that) and try unplugging the injector. Turn the key to "ON" and see if it still squirts. If it does with no wiring attached to it, then it's doing it all by itself.
If you convert from a NON fuel injected engine to a fuel injected engine, you need to install a booster fuel pump. Carburated fuel pressure is around 4-5psig fuel injected 32-45 pig. Also make sure your timing is correct.
94 YJ Sahara
The best Engineering is no match against natural Stupidity.
I don't think there's much hope of cleaning hard crud out of the injector (hard crud would be what it takes to block the injector open)...
Here's what you should have:
High-pressure fuel pump
Fuel pressure regulator with return line to the tank
Fuel pressure take-off fitting for pressure gauge
Throttle body with injector
Variety of sensors & sending units
Dang near any of those sensors could trick the computer into making the TBI run rich if the sensor isn't working as it should. Did you get the OBD connector along with the rest? Do you get a code if you scan it?
O2 sensor, maybe?
EDIT: Not a conversion... the injector's still probably not field-cleanable, though, and I'd still like to know what the pressure's like and whether you get an OBD code.