Ignition switch wires?? - JeepForum.com

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post #1 of 35 Old 08-28-2014, 02:36 PM Thread Starter
CRiNT
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Ignition switch wires??

I have an 89 wrangler YJ. I gutted the harness and fuse box due to an electrical meltdown. I'm wiring in everything from scratch and and need help wiring in ignition switch. I know the green wire runs to starter. What about the yellow and red wires? And where should I put the fuse?

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post #2 of 35 Old 08-28-2014, 02:56 PM
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Like this
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418 miles on 19 gallons of gas. Can't beat the BBD !
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post #3 of 35 Old 08-28-2014, 04:26 PM Thread Starter
CRiNT
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Well iv look at a few different schematics but I need one with the posts of the ignition switch so I know which color goes to which post which goes where?
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post #4 of 35 Old 08-28-2014, 04:46 PM
Old4X
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The diagram shows the ignition switch connections.

As you stated you are doing a total rewire, use whatever colors you like.

If you want a factory harness, it is WAY easier to just buy one rather than try to fab one.

418 miles on 19 gallons of gas. Can't beat the BBD !
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post #5 of 35 Old 08-28-2014, 05:30 PM
mike134
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luckily thieves can't read diagrams.... I hope....
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post #6 of 35 Old 08-28-2014, 07:01 PM Thread Starter
CRiNT
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Ok well that is very confusing to me. If you look at the ignition switch the top right post runs to the starter. The bottom right post is a yellow wire and I don't know where to run it and the middle left post is a red wire that I'm not sure where that runs either. I'm pretty sure those are the only ones I need? Can you maybe simplify it a little for me haha.
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post #7 of 35 Old 08-28-2014, 07:46 PM
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The diagram is only for the ignition circuits, not ACC or any other circuits.
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418 miles on 19 gallons of gas. Can't beat the BBD !
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post #8 of 35 Old 08-28-2014, 08:00 PM
Old4X
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The wire that is hot in "run" coming out of the ign switch hooks to the red wire on your ICM, and it is spliced to the red "IGN+" wire in the above diagram with an ignition resistor added in line,

The wire shown from the start relay that splices into the "Ign+" wire on the top diagram (splice it between the resistor and coil, not beyond the resistor) also ties into the white wire in the ICM.

The small diagram shows simplified wiring for the distributor to the ICM.

,
You only need 3 wires on your ign switch. A power feed in, a start wire out to the start relay, and a run feed out to the ICM and coil. That is the minimum to get it running.

eta: the top diagram looks looks a separate power feed for the start cycle to power the start relay and energize the start relay and coil + wire. So that would be 4 wires, not the 3 I just said.

418 miles on 19 gallons of gas. Can't beat the BBD !
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post #9 of 35 Old 08-28-2014, 08:15 PM
Old4X
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You will not be able to do this without a test light , a multi-meter would come in handy as well .

418 miles on 19 gallons of gas. Can't beat the BBD !
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post #10 of 35 Old 08-28-2014, 08:28 PM
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This diagram has some wire colors on it if it helps. It also shows the proper splice location for the coil power feed and the ignition resistor wire.
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418 miles on 19 gallons of gas. Can't beat the BBD !
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post #11 of 35 Old 08-28-2014, 09:09 PM Thread Starter
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Hmm still not quite what I'm looking for. I can't test for the hot wire because nothing is hooked to power yet. I'm not sure which one of the posts is power feed and run feed out. And do I need a starter relay and ignition resistor?
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post #12 of 35 Old 08-28-2014, 09:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CRiNT View Post
Hmm still not quite what I'm looking for. I can't test for the hot wire because nothing is hooked to power yet. I'm not sure which one of the posts is power feed and run feed out. And do I need a starter relay and ignition resistor?
Yes and no. It depends on if you just want a simple system, or one that is the same or close to a factory ignition system.

To run with the OEM ignition control module and stock coil, you have to use a resistor, else your coil will overheat and fail. You can just use a GM ICM, but that is wired different than stock. But the GM unit doesn't have a resistor in the power wire. A self contained HEI distributor would work the same way.

Without a starter relay you would need to get an ignition switch that would be compatible with just the starter solenoid.


If you have a donor vehicle, you could cobble something up, but just trying to piece something together with no clear end product in mind will prove difficult and frustrating.

The OEM system on your Jeep isn't perfect or the best, but it is well documented in the service manual and all parts are readily available, including wiring harnesses,

418 miles on 19 gallons of gas. Can't beat the BBD !
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post #13 of 35 Old 08-29-2014, 03:59 AM Thread Starter
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Ya I'm looking for a simple system. I put in a starter relay and wired in the neutral safety switch. I ran the red wire to the battery because I assume that's power feed. Green wire is run through the relay to starter. And the yellow wire must be my run feed wire. I'm gonna run it through my fuel pump relay to ground to complete circuit from battery to fuel pump. The rest of the stuff will run through the fuse box powered by the battery controlled by a kill switch. What do you think?
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post #14 of 35 Old 08-29-2014, 06:09 AM
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Woa! Elect fuel pump? If you are running fuel injection, you need to get a harness, either Painless or from a donor vehicle. You will have yard art for months instead of a drivable jeep if you don't.

And ignore all the diagrams I posted, they are for a 6 cyl carbureted engine with the Duraspark system.

418 miles on 19 gallons of gas. Can't beat the BBD !
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post #15 of 35 Old 08-29-2014, 06:38 AM
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Buy a Haynes manual or a FSM. The Haynes manual I have has detailed diagrams just like Old4X was posting. I just had to trace out my entire starting system to try and diagnose a no start issue. Last thing (will be the 1st thing next time) I checked was the Ign switch. The 12v run power had backed out of the harness. The Haynes manual helped immensely with tracing circuits. The schematics posted above are exactly what I used as I have an 89 4.2 carb'ed 3 speed auto.

Just finding a problem was a headache and I think rewiring your system from scratch will be an even bigger one. I'd bet the cost difference of buying a harness compared to fabbing one up is negligble at best.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 14Sport View Post
Until you know exactly what is underneath the, well, not really sure what to call them...mistakes...it's hard to come up with a plan of action.
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