Idle issues - JeepForum.com

 
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post #1 of 13 Old 10-23-2013, 06:42 PM Thread Starter
Rldevogt
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Idle issues

I plugged this hose and it idles great. If I unplug it the jeep idles at around 1200 rpm. It has been doing this for a while but this forum has inspired me to start working on the jeep more. What should this hose be connected to? Or should I just plug it?



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post #2 of 13 Old 10-23-2013, 07:03 PM
bpounds
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Obviously you don't want vacuum ports hanging open. As you have discovered, vacuum leaks are bad.

I believe that line goes through the firewall to the heater controls, IIRC.

Bill
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post #3 of 13 Old 10-23-2013, 07:04 PM
Old4X
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IIRC, that is supposed to hook to the line that passes through the firewall and goes to the heater control. Also "T"s off to the front axle disconnect switch on the transfer case.

418 miles on 19 gallons of gas. Can't beat the BBD !
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post #4 of 13 Old 10-23-2013, 07:47 PM Thread Starter
Rldevogt
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I don't really care for heat. I live in ga and 40 degrees isn't all that cold. Plus my heater already works really well. I'm unsure of this transfer case hook up tho. Does any one have a picture how this should look? The more I year this jeep down the more I learn how much the Po didn't know what he was doing.
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post #5 of 13 Old 10-23-2013, 08:05 PM
dancytron
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The PO could have either bypassed/gotten rid of the front axle disconnect or hooked it up somewhere else.

If you know your 4wd is working and don't care about the heat, just plug it.

Otherwise, look for the vacuum lines running from the front right axle (which are originally hard plastic green and yellow and black (or maybe white), follow them to the transfer case, and then follow the red one to a checkvalve under the hood on the passenger side.
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post #6 of 13 Old 10-23-2013, 08:13 PM
bpounds
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You may not need a heater, but you might still want that vacuum line to the heater controls. Because the vacuum opens the outside air baffle. So without it you might not get outside air through the vents. There is a recent thread somewhere here that shows how it works.

Here it is: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/y...te-up-1649689/

Bill
Dodge did not build my Jeep.
1988 Wrangler,4.2L I-6, Howell EFI JP-1,GM HEI Ign, 5 Speed Peugeot, Zone 2.5" lift + 1/2" booms, BFG 31 x 10.5, Bestop.
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post #7 of 13 Old 10-23-2013, 10:03 PM Thread Starter
Rldevogt
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Thanks I'm going to check out the thread in the morning. My 4wd works great. I still have the vacuum system but it works like a champ.
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post #8 of 13 Old 10-24-2013, 03:32 PM Thread Starter
Rldevogt
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I Checked out the diagram. It seems pretty straight forward. I think I found the other two vacuum hoses. Is it possible to buy a "T" bracket/hookup. And if the PO disconnected the front axel disconnect would it do damage if I hooked both of the lines up with the "T" bracket/hookup or should I just find which hose goes to the heater.
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post #9 of 13 Old 10-24-2013, 03:38 PM
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Looks like you're missing a lot of the vacuum emissions controls. The high/low vacuum switches are gone, as are all the pulse-air relays.

Given that, I would just try to get the stuff you need hooked back up. And forget trying to return it to stock plumbing. Check out the threads for manually controlling the CAD or permanently locking the CAD engaged.

Bill
Dodge did not build my Jeep.
1988 Wrangler,4.2L I-6, Howell EFI JP-1,GM HEI Ign, 5 Speed Peugeot, Zone 2.5" lift + 1/2" booms, BFG 31 x 10.5, Bestop.
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post #10 of 13 Old 10-24-2013, 04:13 PM Thread Starter
Rldevogt
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Thats just it, everything works. I have the vacuum system for 4wd and it works just fine. I dont have a 4wd light but i can feel it engage and disengage. I don't have to pass emissions so that is not a problem. I just want to plug the vacuum leak that I pointed out at the top of this thread. If it is possible to return it to stock I would like to do that but since everything is working and it drives well I will probably just plug it.

Im trying to make this jeep as reliable as possible. Plus it is fun to have my little man (4 years old) out there with me fixing this thing.
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post #11 of 13 Old 10-24-2013, 04:21 PM
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I can see the throttle linkage has been jury-rigged, so you likely don't have the original carburetor. That means it has been nuttered, or something like that, and the ECM probably isn't doing anything. So you don't need, and you're better off without, all that emissions crap. Unfortunately you'll have to figure out most stuff on your own, because nothing is going to match any shop manuals. You've got a one of a kind.

If it runs good with that port plugged, you're good to go just doing that. Figure out how to get vacuum through the firewall to the vent control if you want to.

I wish I could get rid of all that vacuum crap so easily. I will have to go to fuel injection to get away with it.

I'm pretty sure you can eliminate that spark plug hanging off the wiring harness.

Bill
Dodge did not build my Jeep.
1988 Wrangler,4.2L I-6, Howell EFI JP-1,GM HEI Ign, 5 Speed Peugeot, Zone 2.5" lift + 1/2" booms, BFG 31 x 10.5, Bestop.
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post #12 of 13 Old 10-24-2013, 04:48 PM Thread Starter
Rldevogt
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that spark plug is what is plugging the vacuum hose right now. thank you for the help. I want to go with a 4.0 fuel injection in about 2 years. If I can make it until then I will be happy.
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post #13 of 13 Old 10-24-2013, 05:57 PM
jokerchief462
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Picture number two you are looking at the case vents for the transfer case and front diff. Leave those alone they are correct.

Sent from underneath my Jeep

89YJ 2.5L TBI, AX-5, NP231 SYE, Ford 8.8, Yukon Grizzly, Tom Woods Shaft, 33" BFG T/As, 4" lift, Warn VR10000s.

AF Jeep Club Tail #184
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