I need help with clutch replace - Page 2 - JeepForum.com
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post #16 of 43 Old 09-01-2011, 01:06 PM Thread Starter
qewbawl
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tobias94yj

Very true on everything and handle your newly machined flywheel the same way. here is a link to a thread i did about swapping a tranny and installing a new clutch.
That is a great thread. I will deffinitely be referring back to it when installing the tranny and clutch.

Thanks

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post #17 of 43 Old 09-01-2011, 01:15 PM
zeus87gn
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Here's one type -> http://www.harborfreight.com/15-piec...-set-5469.html

Here's another -> http://www.harborfreight.com/3-jaw-p...ller-4876.html

The one I have is actually a cross between the two.
It has the 3 jaw interior puller head like the second type,
but it has the slide hammer like the first one.


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post #18 of 43 Old 09-01-2011, 04:34 PM
oldtime_ironman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by qewbawl View Post
I actually have a Haynes repair manual but is so old its hard to make out some of the instructions. I'm looking at buying a Helm Inc. repair manual.

What exactly is a stud and where can I get one?

Thanks.
Studs are simple. Just get 2 bolts about 4 inches long. The same size thread as the ones that go from the bellhousing into the engine block. Cut the heads off them and round over the cut-off ends a bit. Plain old hardware store bolts are fine for this.

To use the studs, just finger-tight screw them into the engine block either on the sides or up top where the bellhousing goes. They're just temporary to help you get all the bolt holes lined up. Once you have all the other bolts started, you unscrew the studs back out, and put the normal bolts back in where they were.

.
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post #19 of 43 Old 09-01-2011, 05:35 PM Thread Starter
qewbawl
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zeus87gn
Here's one type -> http://www.harborfreight.com/15-piec...-set-5469.html

Here's another -> http://www.harborfreight.com/3-jaw-p...ller-4876.html

The one I have is actually a cross between the two.
It has the 3 jaw interior puller head like the second type,
but it has the slide hammer like the first one.

Sweet! Thanks for the tip! Which one of the two you listed would you recommend?
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post #20 of 43 Old 09-01-2011, 05:36 PM Thread Starter
qewbawl
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldtime_ironman

Studs are simple. Just get 2 bolts about 4 inches long. The same size thread as the ones that go from the bellhousing into the engine block. Cut the heads off them and round over the cut-off ends a bit. Plain old hardware store bolts are fine for this.

To use the studs, just finger-tight screw them into the engine block either on the sides or up top where the bellhousing goes. They're just temporary to help you get all the bolt holes lined up. Once you have all the other bolts started, you unscrew the studs back out, and put the normal bolts back in where they were.

.
I see. Thanks for clarifying that up for me. It definitely sounds like it would make the installation process easier.

Thanks again.
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post #21 of 43 Old 09-01-2011, 05:40 PM
oldtime_ironman
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I recommend trying the grease trick before spending on a puller for the pilot bearing. Just pack the hole in the pilot with grease. Stick a 1/2 inch bolt in it and whap it sharply with a hammer. Worked for me every time. Just use a bolt that fits the hole pretty close.

If it doesn't work for some reason, then yeah a slide-hammer puller will.

.
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post #22 of 43 Old 09-01-2011, 05:54 PM
Newk76
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We rented a bearing remover from the local parts store. Tried all the other tricks first, nothing worked. The rental was expensive, but as long as you return the tool you get your money back.. at least where we rented from. Good luck!
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post #23 of 43 Old 09-01-2011, 07:24 PM
ejeeperguy
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Okay you guys never tried using the old grease trick to get the bearing out! Load the hole up take a long socket I think it was a 1/2 in and a old 3inch extension.Put the socket on backwards down the extension shaft.what this does is seal the end of the socket .put it in the bearing then quick hard hits you might have to repack it once or twice but it will pop out.It works, I was shocked when I first saw this years ago.Autozone has the clutch kits they have the best prices for it ,and the bearing come with it.Get the one with the slave cylinder too while you are in there.I just did all this to my wife's 90 YJ last year .I would also change the line and master cylinder too my friend you will thank me later. they will go on you. the new pressure plate will make the old parts pop a seal.
Happy Wheelling
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post #24 of 43 Old 09-01-2011, 07:50 PM Thread Starter
qewbawl
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldtime_ironman
I recommend trying the grease trick before spending on a puller for the pilot bearing. Just pack the hole in the pilot with grease. Stick a 1/2 inch bolt in it and whap it sharply with a hammer. Worked for me every time. Just use a bolt that fits the hole pretty close.

If it doesn't work for some reason, then yeah a slide-hammer puller will.

.
Thanks for the tip!
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post #25 of 43 Old 09-01-2011, 07:51 PM Thread Starter
qewbawl
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Newk76
We rented a bearing remover from the local parts store. Tried all the other tricks first, nothing worked. The rental was expensive, but as long as you return the tool you get your money back.. at least where we rented from. Good luck!
Thanks. I will look around and see what the tool goes for.
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post #26 of 43 Old 09-01-2011, 07:53 PM Thread Starter
qewbawl
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ejeeperguy
Okay you guys never tried using the old grease trick to get the bearing out! Load the hole up take a long socket I think it was a 1/2 in and a old 3inch extension.Put the socket on backwards down the extension shaft.what this does is seal the end of the socket .put it in the bearing then quick hard hits you might have to repack it once or twice but it will pop out.It works, I was shocked when I first saw this years ago.Autozone has the clutch kits they have the best prices for it ,and the bearing come with it.Get the one with the slave cylinder too while you are in there.I just did all this to my wife's 90 YJ last year .I would also change the line and master cylinder too my friend you will thank me later. they will go on you. the new pressure plate will make the old parts pop a seal.
Happy Wheelling
Yeah, I just purchased the clutch set today from Autozone. It came with the clutch, presure plate, pilot bearing, and release bearing. I will be looking into master slave cylinder.

Thanks!
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post #27 of 43 Old 09-02-2011, 07:04 AM
mrbman
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Good thread.
The alignment studs are a big help particularly if you are working alone.

One other tip is to check that your clutch disc is oriented properly.
It is usually marked on one surface.
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post #28 of 43 Old 09-02-2011, 03:53 PM Thread Starter
qewbawl
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrbman
Good thread.
The alignment studs are a big help particularly if you are working alone.

One other tip is to check that your clutch disc is oriented properly.
It is usually marked on one surface.
Thanks to all the people contributing, it has turned out to be a good thread :-)

Thanks for the tip!
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post #29 of 43 Old 09-02-2011, 03:57 PM Thread Starter
qewbawl
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UPDATE:

I just took the pressure plate, clutch, and flywheel off! When I took the flywheel off, the pilot bearing was still inside so, we just took a socket that would fit inside and pushed it out - it was quite simple. I am on my way to my local machine shop to have the flywheel turned ($30).

Thanks for all the help!
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post #30 of 43 Old 09-02-2011, 04:14 PM
stratostix
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Quote:
Originally Posted by qewbawl View Post
UPDATE:

I just took the pressure plate, clutch, and flywheel off! When I took the flywheel off, the pilot bearing was still inside so, we just took a socket that would fit inside and pushed it out - it was quite simple. I am on my way to my local machine shop to have the flywheel turned ($30).

Thanks for all the help!
Glad to hear everything's going smoothly. Lucky u. $30 to turn ur flywheel? That's a great price. I paid $60 for mine. I had to since it was the only machine shop in town... anyways gl with the remainder of ur repair. Ur over the hump.
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