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Unread 08-31-2011, 01:51 PM   #1
qewbawl
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I need help with clutch replace

Sup people. I'm in the process of replacing the clutch on my 95 YJ (2.5) and could really use some help. My friend and I took down my tranny last week to have it rebuild and I am getting it back tomorrow. Before we put the tranny back in I want to replace the clutch, being that the repair manual suggests it. However, neither my buddy or I have ever replaced a clutch and we are pretty much clueless as to how to do it.

It would be greatly appreciated if you guys can help out with any information regarding the process and tools needed for this job.

Thanks.

-Q

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Unread 08-31-2011, 02:03 PM   #2
tobias94yj
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Replacing the clutch is very easy. getting the tranny in and out is the hardest part.
you need to get a new clutch which should consist of a clutch disc, pressure plate. you will also need a clutch alignment tool which normally comes with a new clutch. I would go ahead and replace the throw out bearing too. I would also consider changing out the pilot bearing in the flywheel.

take all the old clutch parts off the flywheel and remove the old pilot bearing.
then take your flywheel to a machine shop and have them turn it so you have a fresh surface for your new clutch to go against.
reinstall your flywheel and install your new pilot bearing. next install your new clutch disc and pressure plate leaving the bolts loose.
use your clutch alignment tool to get everything straight then tighten down your pressure plate. now put your new throw out bearing and clutch fork on reinstall your tranny
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Unread 08-31-2011, 02:20 PM   #3
1SASjeepster
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Guys, make sure you buy a Haynes auto manual for your year Jeep. They will go into detail about doing this job PLUS they will give you all of the torque settings for the bolts. As was said, if all of the parts match up, the hardest part of this job is getting the transmission back in. My best advice is to get two studs to match up to two of your bellhousing bolts. I don't know if your block has dowel pins or not, but I find two studs AND ONLY TWO STUDS make the job of alignment so much easier. If you replace all the bellhousing bolts with studs, usually it doesn't have enough play to put the transmission back on.

Take care,
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Unread 08-31-2011, 02:21 PM   #4
bharris68
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You can buy a clutch kit from just about any reputable source - make sure you get an OEM quality Slave cylinder (Internal or External) so that you don't have to do it more than once. Get your flywheel machined properly and install your new pilot bearing. Use threadlocker on the bolts holding everything in. It's pretty straightforward, really and I was able to do it without a lot of hassle!
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Unread 08-31-2011, 06:05 PM   #5
qewbawl
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tobias94yj
Replacing the clutch is very easy. getting the tranny in and out is the hardest part.
you need to get a new clutch which should consist of a clutch disc, pressure plate. you will also need a clutch alignment tool which normally comes with a new clutch. I would go ahead and replace the throw out bearing too. I would also consider changing out the pilot bearing in the flywheel.

take all the old clutch parts off the flywheel and remove the old pilot bearing.
then take your flywheel to a machine shop and have them turn it so you have a fresh surface for your new clutch to go against.
reinstall your flywheel and install your new pilot bearing. next install your new clutch disc and pressure plate leaving the bolts loose.
use your clutch alignment tool to get everything straight then tighten down your pressure plate. now put your new throw out bearing and clutch fork on reinstall your tranny
Sounds simple enough. Thanks for the help.
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Unread 08-31-2011, 06:07 PM   #6
qewbawl
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1SASjeepster
Guys, make sure you buy a Haynes auto manual for your year Jeep. They will go into detail about doing this job PLUS they will give you all of the torque settings for the bolts. As was said, if all of the parts match up, the hardest part of this job is getting the transmission back in. My best advice is to get two studs to match up to two of your bellhousing bolts. I don't know if your block has dowel pins or not, but I find two studs AND ONLY TWO STUDS make the job of alignment so much easier. If you replace all the bellhousing bolts with studs, usually it doesn't have enough play to put the transmission back on.

Take care,
I actually have a Haynes repair manual but is so old its hard to make out some of the instructions. I'm looking at buying a Helm Inc. repair manual.

What exactly is a stud and where can I get one?

Thanks.
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Unread 08-31-2011, 06:08 PM   #7
qewbawl
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bharris68
You can buy a clutch kit from just about any reputable source - make sure you get an OEM quality Slave cylinder (Internal or External) so that you don't have to do it more than once. Get your flywheel machined properly and install your new pilot bearing. Use threadlocker on the bolts holding everything in. It's pretty straightforward, really and I was able to do it without a lot of hassle!
How would I know if I'm getting an OEM quality slave cylinder?
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Unread 08-31-2011, 06:15 PM   #8
qewbawl
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Also, is a release bearing the same as a throwout bearing??? If not, then what is it?

Thanks.
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Unread 08-31-2011, 11:29 PM   #9
GottaYJ
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^^^they are the same
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Unread 08-31-2011, 11:33 PM   #10
qewbawl
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GottaYJ
^^^they are the same
Roger that! Thanks :-)
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Unread 09-01-2011, 01:41 AM   #11
stratostix
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Quote:
Originally Posted by qewbawl View Post
Sounds simple enough. Thanks for the help.
I just wanna add a couple of things to tobias' post...

1) when you handle your new clutch, be careful not to contaminate it.. (i.e. Grease, dirt, etc). Handle it like it's a sterile piece of equipment.

2)The bolts holding the flywheel are on TIGHT + threadlocker. Stick a long pry bar at a strategic angle (u can figure it out) between the teeth of the flywheel and a block of wood on the ground to keep it from turning when taking off these bolts (and when replacing them for that matter...)

3) Flywheel and pressure plate bolts must be torque'd in a cross pattern if i remember correctly. Flywheel bolts use locktite (i use blue). Can't remember for the pressure plate bolts (I think not). But you can easily find the answer to that if you search for it.

4) when you grease up the spline (on which the throwout bearing is sitting) make sure you only use a very thin layer of grease as to not contaminate your new clutch with splatter.

I think that's all the details not to overlook I can think of....

Also, when re-installing the tranny, use some 6 inch (or so) long threaded guide pins to make things easier. One on each side of the tranny. It'll line things right up and will save you a LOT of sweat blood and tears. Hope this helped.
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Unread 09-01-2011, 07:25 AM   #12
zeus87gn
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Quote:
Originally Posted by qewbawl View Post
How would I know if I'm getting an OEM quality slave cylinder?
OEM quality doesn't have to be a necessity.
With the 4cyl, you have the AX5 trani.
If you have the external salve, just make sure it is a NEW cylinder.
If you have the internal slave, it needs to have the tubes already installed.
Don't use the ones that need the tubes installed.

A couple of important things to know about...because this is your first clutch.
Removing the pilot bushing/bearing will be difficult if you dont' have the right tool.
If you can rent or buy the tool, I highly suggest spending the money.
Some say the grease trick can get it right out.
I have never had it work for me on any of the 27 clutches I have replaced (27 is a close exaggeration).
If you dont' have a torque wrench, go get one.
The clutch will never be right if you don't torque the bolts correctly.

Once you get it all back together, make sure you bleed the clutch cylinder correctly - don't bleed it like you would brakes - bleed it without releasing built up pressure - open the bleeder valve before the pedal is pressed down and close it before the pedal is released- no need to 'pump up' pressure for the clutch - check the fluid bowl every other pedal stroke so it doesn't go empty.

Most important - keep plenty of comsumable fluids at your disposal.
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Unread 09-01-2011, 07:55 AM   #13
tobias94yj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stratostix View Post
I just wanna add a couple of things to tobias' post...

1) when you handle your new clutch, be careful not to contaminate it.. (i.e. Grease, dirt, etc). Handle it like it's a sterile piece of equipment.

2)The bolts holding the flywheel are on TIGHT + threadlocker. Stick a long pry bar at a strategic angle (u can figure it out) between the teeth of the flywheel and a block of wood on the ground to keep it from turning when taking off these bolts (and when replacing them for that matter...)

3) Flywheel and pressure plate bolts must be torque'd in a cross pattern if i remember correctly. Flywheel bolts use locktite (i use blue). Can't remember for the pressure plate bolts (I think not). But you can easily find the answer to that if you search for it.

4) when you grease up the spline (on which the throwout bearing is sitting) make sure you only use a very thin layer of grease as to not contaminate your new clutch with splatter.

I think that's all the details not to overlook I can think of....

Also, when re-installing the tranny, use some 6 inch (or so) long threaded guide pins to make things easier. One on each side of the tranny. It'll line things right up and will save you a LOT of sweat blood and tears. Hope this helped.
Very true on everything and handle your newly machined flywheel the same way. here is a link to a thread i did about swapping a tranny and installing a new clutch.
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Unread 09-01-2011, 01:01 PM   #14
qewbawl
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stratostix

I just wanna add a couple of things to tobias' post...

1) when you handle your new clutch, be careful not to contaminate it.. (i.e. Grease, dirt, etc). Handle it like it's a sterile piece of equipment.

2)The bolts holding the flywheel are on TIGHT + threadlocker. Stick a long pry bar at a strategic angle (u can figure it out) between the teeth of the flywheel and a block of wood on the ground to keep it from turning when taking off these bolts (and when replacing them for that matter...)

3) Flywheel and pressure plate bolts must be torque'd in a cross pattern if i remember correctly. Flywheel bolts use locktite (i use blue). Can't remember for the pressure plate bolts (I think not). But you can easily find the answer to that if you search for it.

4) when you grease up the spline (on which the throwout bearing is sitting) make sure you only use a very thin layer of grease as to not contaminate your new clutch with splatter.

I think that's all the details not to overlook I can think of....

Also, when re-installing the tranny, use some 6 inch (or so) long threaded guide pins to make things easier. One on each side of the tranny. It'll line things right up and will save you a LOT of sweat blood and tears. Hope this helped.
Great stuff, trully appreciate it!
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Unread 09-01-2011, 01:05 PM   #15
qewbawl
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zeus87gn
OEM quality doesn't have to be a necessity.
With the 4cyl, you have the AX5 trani.
If you have the external salve, just make sure it is a NEW cylinder.
If you have the internal slave, it needs to have the tubes already installed.
Don't use the ones that need the tubes installed.

A couple of important things to know about...because this is your first clutch.
Removing the pilot bushing/bearing will be difficult if you dont' have the right tool.
If you can rent or buy the tool, I highly suggest spending the money.
Some say the grease trick can get it right out.
I have never had it work for me on any of the 27 clutches I have replaced (27 is a close exaggeration).
If you dont' have a torque wrench, go get one.
The clutch will never be right if you don't torque the bolts correctly.

Once you get it all back together, make sure you bleed the clutch cylinder correctly - don't bleed it like you would brakes - bleed it without releasing built up pressure - open the bleeder valve before the pedal is pressed down and close it before the pedal is released- no need to 'pump up' pressure for the clutch - check the fluid bowl every other pedal stroke so it doesn't go empty.

Most important - keep plenty of comsumable fluids at your disposal.
Thanks for the tips, greatly appreciate it. Now, when you said I should rent or buy the tool to remove the pilot bearing, do they make specific tool just for that purpose? If so, what is called?

Thanks.
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