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I might have a Rare Problem

2K views 19 replies 7 participants last post by  I<3Jeeps 
#1 ·
So I go to check my oil today. On a flat surface. It hasn't moved for two days cuz I ride a vanpool into work. Anyways I go to check the oil level and I pull it out and wipe it clean, stick it back in and pull it back out and I'm totally surprized that there is some white look'n stuff on the dip stick...what the hell is it? I know I have a little bit of an engine oil blow-by problem but what is my dipstick trying to tell me? btw my oil was at the full level.

Ideas would be appreciated.

Also any ways to fix my engine oil blow-by problem would be super helpful too thanks guys your the best!
 
#6 ·
Nobody likes bad news...good thing about this is that you didn't detonate out there somewhere! There are multiple ways that water gets into the oil...could be a bad head gasket, but there's usually a reason a head gasket goes bad..not always, but usually... I've been told by my machine shop, who's worked on a number of these, that the heads sometimes crack, could be another source of water intrusion into the oil...

Or, a simpler reason is that if you aren't using your Jeep regularly, and then usually only for a short distance, it could simply be normal condensation... in that case, make sure that you run your vehicle up to temp for a few minutes before shutting it down...It's not always possible to do, but as much as possible, it's best not to use it totally for short hops of a mile or less...bad on your exhaust system, too...Don't panic yet...plenty of time to panic later. LOL
 
#8 ·
Take off the oil filler cap and look for a milky froth. If you see milky froth in the oil you have water in the crankcase. These are several potential causes that range in severity from sitting in high humidity to a cracked block.
 
#9 ·
Yeah, not time to panic just yet...one of the things you can do to help yourself is to have a radiator shop or mechanic check the coolant for combustion gases... that will tell you if you have water intrusion in your oil system...then, it's likely that it's only head and/or head gasket related...pull the head, take it to a machinist, have them magnaflux it, deck it, basically rebuild it, you will likely need new exhaust valves...had mine done about six months ago, ran me less than $200...in California! Carefully examine the head gasket, USUALLY (not always) you will be able to tell if it's failed... if you can't detect a failure, have a very experienced (noticed I didn't say well trained?) mechanic take a peek, they will see things that you and I will miss. Same thing, have the head rebuilt anyway...if it is cracked, obviously, you will be replacing it...and there are good rebuilt ones out there, normally your auto machine shop is an excellent source for those, they will either have them in stock or can source them quickly...as long as you have the head off, might be time to take a peek at your cam timing gear set... the original ones were made of aluminum and nylon, love to explode at the most inopertune times, get a good cast iron set, replace the soft plugs on the block with brass ones, as long as you have access...basically, short of rebuilding the engine, there are several things that you can do to prevent future problems. I had my engine down to this point last spring, I think in my case, I might could shoulda rebuilt it, BUT, it runs great now, so, maybe not, my RMS is leaking a bit, so it's just a decision you need to make based upon your situation, finances, and friskiness...
 
#10 ·
hmmm alright, heading outside to check the cap now cuz I just got home from work. I'll update this post with my findings.

*Edit* ok twisted off the oil cap and there's no white frothy stuff on the cap, looked down inside with a flashlight and couldn't see any either. So what does that tell you guys?
I'm really confused because my Jeep just started to run a lot better recently after I rebuilt my carb.

What should I do next? Should I still get it checked out by a mechanic? I have a guy that lives across the street works at a Jeep dealership here in town and I'm sure he wouldn't mind taking a look for me.
 
#11 ·
You can rent a cooling system pressure tester from AutoZone, pump your system up to 15 lbs. and wait a few minutes to see if the pressure drops. If there is a substantial drop in the pressure then you have coolant leaking somewhere throughout the system.

That would be the next thing I do, plus you get a full refund when you take the tool kit back, so you're only out a few minutes of your time.
 
#12 ·
swedishdwarf said:
Take off the oil filler cap and look for a milky froth. If you see milky froth in the oil you have water in the crankcase. These are several potential causes that range in severity from sitting in high humidity to a cracked block.
You can pretty much rule out high humidity in Wisconsin in November with highs in the mid 50s. I would say that the most likely cause is gonna be either a bad head gasket or a crack in the block. With the head gasket being the most common. How many miles do you have on the engine? That is a big factor when deciding.
 
#14 ·
Just drive it, make sure you are warming it up properly and for a significant period of time...don't be afraid of those short trips, just make sure you get it out on the road for a while every few days or so...you may not have a problem at all at this point...
 
#15 ·
Alright. The PO put in a new head and I noticed the gasket is a bright orange probably silicone. I'll get some pics of it up tomarrow. Cuz I'm thinking if there's a small leak and I'm think'n there is cuz oil seems to be leaking from that gasket seal + my blow-by issue. But I'll get some pics up tomarrow and you guys will have to let me know what you think because I think if moisture was getting in there it'd be from somewhere around that seal.
 
#16 ·
I<3Jeeps said:
Alright. The PO put in a new head and I noticed the gasket is a bright orange probably silicone. I'll get some pics of it up tomarrow. Cuz I'm thinking if there's a small leak and I'm think'n there is cuz oil seems to be leaking from that gasket seal + my blow-by issue. But I'll get some pics up tomarrow and you guys will have to let me know what you think because I think if moisture was getting in there it'd be from somewhere around that seal.
Did you do a pressure check on your cooling system like I mentioned a few posts above? That really is going to be the only way to tell if you have a small head gasket leak somewhere.

Also, I highly doubt that they used silicone for the head gasket, there is no way that any form of automotive silicone will hold up to the temps and pressures a head gasket is designed for, even for a short period of time. It's possible they used silicone on the Valve Cover, rather then a gasket, but definitely not on the Cylinder Head.
 
#17 ·
Interesting tidbit

I<3Jeeps said:
Alright. The PO put in a new head and I noticed the gasket is a bright orange probably silicone. I'll get some pics of it up tomarrow. Cuz I'm thinking if there's a small leak and I'm think'n there is cuz oil seems to be leaking from that gasket seal + my blow-by issue. But I'll get some pics up tomarrow and you guys will have to let me know what you think because I think if moisture was getting in there it'd be from somewhere around that seal.
Well, now...this is an interesting and VERY pertinent tidbit of information that woulda been good to know at the very first post!!! If the clown used silicone on the headgasket, there's your problem!!! If you suspect that this is the case, then do not pass go...yank that thing off of there, work the surfaces with a red Scotchbrite wheels on a die grinder or however works best to thoroughly clean the deck and use Copper Coat or similar sealer on the new head gasket...
 
#18 ·
There is no way this motor would run if they had used silicone on the head. Head gaskets are almost 1/8" thick and they need to have a spring force. If you use silicone, it would all be squeezed out when torqued to spec. There would be massive leaks of all sorts, coolant, oil, exhaust, vacuum. It would be out of time due to the fact that the pushrods would be too long and it would hold the intake and exhaust valves open all the time. This is not a possibility.

EDIT: reread, suspect he could have also used silicone in conjuction with a head gasket. You should never use anything but the headgasket itself. Nothing more, nothing less....
 
#19 ·
Ryanpowell167 said:
You should never use anything but the headgasket itself. Nothing more, nothing less....
This, of course, is a matter of opinion and personal taste...over the last forty years, I have used Copper Coat, or similar, on every head gasket I've ever installed, and that was at the behest of mechanics who were much more skilled and experienced than I. If you feel that installing it dry is better, then that is your practice, I'm sure it works for ya, that's what ya gotta do...
 
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