I made a _____ for my YJ! (post your homemade Jeep stuff here) - Page 223 - JeepForum.com

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post #3331 of 3587 Old 11-11-2013, 06:55 PM
ashland82391
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Looks good Ash!
Thanks man

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post #3332 of 3587 Old 11-12-2013, 04:27 AM
YJames90
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Originally Posted by ashland82391 View Post
Only problem is the soft top frame bar that pushes in the center of the top won't go past my wanna be spoiler so I just have to split the bar in half via the joint in the center, bring it the rest of the way down and reattach it. takes an extra 30 seconds.

Here's the rest of the cage that I just finished up.

It would have been cool of you made that rear cross bar sit at the same place as the bow does so you could eliminate the bow. And do the same for the cross bar in front.
I think I just found my next project

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Spring Over is not for you.... yet





My 2.5 to 4.3 swap thread
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/4...begun-1237704/
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post #3333 of 3587 Old 11-12-2013, 04:31 AM
ashland82391
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It would have been cool of you made that rear cross bar sit at the same place as the bow does so you could eliminate the bow. And do the same for the cross bar in front.
I think I just found my next project
Yeah, but if its too tight you can't get the soft top into the channels.
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post #3334 of 3587 Old 11-25-2013, 01:44 PM
Dirty714
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Speaker box

So I've been thinking about putting subs in my jeep, my buddy put them under the back seat of his truck, I was wondering if this is possible in a jeep? maybe with the shallow mount subs? I havent really inspected how much room is under the seat, but it doesnt look like much. Any info is greatly appreciated
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post #3335 of 3587 Old 11-25-2013, 02:46 PM
Not-Bob
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I have heard that someone had made brackets to raise there back seat to put dual subs in. Also heard someone did it to put storage drawer under seat. There was also someone that mounted them in the back of the back seat, but I would think that would hit front seats if you tried to fold the seat. Good luck.

Slowly...oh so slowly, building better then new 1990 YJ one part/piece at a time.
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post #3336 of 3587 Old 11-25-2013, 02:58 PM
kingcat400
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these comments go in the audio/electronics fourm
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post #3337 of 3587 Old 11-25-2013, 03:49 PM
njboomer
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Originally Posted by Gage56 View Post
+1

i hate when people try to use plywood for any kind of sub install its just not meant for that , plus not to mention that it looks really BIG For 2 8" subs

Really though get a sheet of MDF 1/2' to 3/4" it will make a world of difference in the sound and it is only about 25.00 - 30.00 for a 4x8 sheet and then you have left to make other good things lol



EDIT,

here is the ones i made for my 8" subs they are only 5"tall 22" long and like 9" wide



you sir are wrong... When I worked for sony building show cars at the tech center all we used was furniture/marine grade birch plywood it was 13 layers thick and cost 70$ a sheet... mdf simply isn't meant to ever touch water it only holds up if you paint it with resin...
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post #3338 of 3587 Old 11-25-2013, 05:49 PM
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Originally Posted by njboomer View Post
you sir are wrong... When I worked for sony building show cars at the tech center all we used was furniture/marine grade birch plywood it was 13 layers thick and cost 70$ a sheet... mdf simply isn't meant to ever touch water it only holds up if you paint it with resin...



1992 YJ
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post #3339 of 3587 Old 11-25-2013, 07:06 PM
njboomer
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Birch ply is stronger, lighter, and has better acoustical characteristics than MDF. it also won't crumble when it gets wet... most shops don't use it because you can get away with using mdf in cars...
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post #3340 of 3587 Old 12-08-2013, 12:47 PM
imstillatwork
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gage56
i hate when people try to use plywood for any kind of sub install its just not meant for that , plus not to mention that it looks really BIG For 2 8" subs

Really though get a sheet of MDF 1/2' to 3/4" it will make a world of difference in the sound and it is only about 25.00 - 30.00 for a 4x8 sheet and then you have left to make other good things lol
You don't 'get' to tell people that ply is wrong for a sub, and then proceed to tell them that 1/2" is OK?!?!?!?

1/2" isn't even OK for a 6" driver in a 'bookshelf' speaker without a million braces... Sheesh!
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post #3341 of 3587 Old 12-22-2013, 07:35 PM
grandizer52
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anyone else done this?

anyone else done this



Quote:
Originally Posted by pat8942 View Post
I have a similar setup on my Aircooled VW and it's great.
I used a high low tube setup inside the can so no matter the direction of flow no liquid gets into the intake air stream.
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post #3342 of 3587 Old 12-22-2013, 07:50 PM
squishy
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Originally Posted by grandizer52
anyone else done this
For what? The intake? An oba compressor ?

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Gratitude and Gold both start with G and are just as rare.
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post #3343 of 3587 Old 12-22-2013, 10:32 PM
RikRotorhead
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I think he's talking about an air intake.

Betcha' wish your girlfriend was as dirty as my Jeep!
Zombies hate fast food.
Hang on! This is gunna' be a thrill ride of geriatric proportion!
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post #3344 of 3587 Old 12-23-2013, 07:59 AM
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Originally Posted by HaskiE View Post
I've heard that about vertical welds... I was just curious; I'm still learning. nice job & thanks Rambo!
You can weld vertical to a frame- but you shouldn't just make that weld and leave it. You can do several things to alleviate the "stress riser" - weld long, useless gussets longitudinal to the frame; run a "tail" stress-relief bead of weld at right angles to the vertical weld tailing it off at twice the length of the vertical weld; triangulated gussets, etc. Preheating the weld area with acetylene (not cherry red or oxidized, though) and then applying a long triangle gusset (22 degrees cut instead of 45) combined with a stress-relief tail bead off the 'sharp' point is probably the best. I learned a lot watching stuff break and get fixed on Bombardier ski trail groomers when I worked in the shop at a ski area. But that's just my opinion- I just like weld beads better than bolts.

How many old threads actually convince *you* to read all 36 pages? http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/length-envy-build-thread-629700/
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post #3345 of 3587 Old 12-23-2013, 05:43 PM
HaskiE
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fishadventure View Post
You can weld vertical to a frame- but you shouldn't just make that weld and leave it. You can do several things to alleviate the "stress riser" - weld long, useless gussets longitudinal to the frame; run a "tail" stress-relief bead of weld at right angles to the vertical weld tailing it off at twice the length of the vertical weld; triangulated gussets, etc. Preheating the weld area with acetylene (not cherry red or oxidized, though) and then applying a long triangle gusset (22 degrees cut instead of 45) combined with a stress-relief tail bead off the 'sharp' point is probably the best. I learned a lot watching stuff break and get fixed on Bombardier ski trail groomers when I worked in the shop at a ski area. But that's just my opinion- I just like weld beads better than bolts.
thanks for the info - I've definitely added pre-heating & stress relief tails to my welds - along with fish plates - never heard of the longitudinal bit before, good to know!

'knowing is half the battle' thanks,

1992 YJ 1"Body Lift, Slip Yoke Eliminator & CV Driveshaft,
2.5" TJ exhaust, WJ valve cover, XJ Computer, External Slave Cyl AX15,
Durango Steeringbox, No track or sway bars, CJ tailgate, on 31's :)
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