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Unread 03-25-2002, 04:17 PM   #1
Brendan
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I have a massive oil leak, not sure of the source.

I seem to loose oil only when my engine is running. I put my jeep on the lift at school, and saw a gap between my oil pan, and the bellhousing. I could actually see my crankshaft, I might sound like a ditz, but is that a problem? I'm guessing that anytime your crank is exposed to dirt and such, its not good. The worst part is, what can I do if this is infact where I am loosing oil? If this isn't the problem, what else can I do? Thanks for your help.

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Unread 03-25-2002, 04:57 PM   #2
Missin44
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Your not a Ditz. But a seeing a small part of the crankshaft is normal/ok. The crank shaft extends through the frond and rear of the engin block. The front being connected to a fan belt pully, the rear to the transmition. It very hard to guess where the leak might be, but if I had to guess I would say the rear main seal. They often leak on high milage engines, mine is now, tend to leak only when running. The rear main seal is a seal that should make an oil tight seal between the engin block/oil pan and the rear part of the crankshaft that goes into the transmition.

But to be sure exactly where the leak is comming from the engine must be cleaned. You can do this at home. Get a few cans of Gunk, Engine Bright, etc. and follow the directions. Once engine is clean of ALL oil. Drive for a couple miles and check for leaks, if no leaks found drive a few more miles and check agian. Keep doing this until you spot the leak. Drive as little as possible because oil can flow in unreal directions very quickly in a moving car. If it leaking at the rear of the crankshaft and dripping off the front of the transmition, its the rear main seal. About $50 in parts and $200-$250 labor.

Hope this helps
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Unread 03-25-2002, 05:00 PM   #3
evilpsych
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$50 in parts? damn.. rear main seal and new oil pan gasket is only like $25..
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'93 YJ, 4.0, K&N filter, Borla Header, Borla Cat-Back, Hi-Flo Cat, 3 Core Radiator, D-Rings, TruckNuts, MSD 6A, LockRite Locker in D30, Magnecors, Kickass Stereo, 1" daystar, 31" BFG AT's, Homemade Rocker Guards and Front/Rear air-tank bumpers with tire carrier, 15x8 AR-767 4"BS, BDS 3.5 HD lift, AMA A/C Kit, York OBA, GoFerIt 1" MML, 8,000lb HF/MM Winch, Magellan MAP 330 GPS, PRO-2067 500ch. Scanner, oh, and a CB capable of talking to SATURN!

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Unread 03-25-2002, 05:05 PM   #4
OldJeepguy
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My wife's 4.0 XJ developed a large oil leak last week - the diaphragm in the oil sender blew out and was leaking at the rate of 1 quart per 10 miles! I noticed it smoking while going down the freeway and luckily pulled into an auto parts store and they had the sender in stock. I bought a Cresent wrench and 10 minutes later all was well. I've never seen an oil sender go like that before!
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Unread 03-25-2002, 07:47 PM   #5
Missin44
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Yes $50, maybe a little less. real maim seal +/-$10, Oil pan gasket from Mopar/dealer, one piece rubber, +/-$35. This is one of the few cases where a dealer item works better. Cork and multi piece oil pan gaskets blow.
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Unread 03-25-2002, 07:49 PM   #6
OldJeepguy
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</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">Originally posted by evilpsych:
<strong>$50 in parts? damn.. rear main seal and new oil pan gasket is only like $25..</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">The GOOD oil pan gasket will set ya back $35-$40 all by itself...
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Unread 03-26-2002, 03:31 AM   #7
YJackus
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I had a major oil leak for about 6 months and nearly sold my Jeep because of it...can you imagine that?? The rear main seal is always the suggested culprit, especially by a mechanic since that is the most expensive piece to replace. I had a leak there to begin with...also had one in the valve cover and the place where the dipstick tube meets the engine block. To top it all off, the oil lines were choking so much that my baby was spittin' oil back out the dipstick after all the other leaks were plugged. I dont know if this is what Missin44 meant, but a mechanic friend o mine had this crap you pour in the engine block and run it. Turn all the lights off in the garage and put a black light over it and the leaks glow. Kinda costly ($18/3 oz. I think) plus the black light, but it was definitely worth it to finally see what was happening. Just check the obvious like the valve cover, breather, distributor before you drop the tranny to do the rear main. Good luck!
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Unread 03-27-2002, 01:46 PM   #8
Brendan
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Thanks a lot guys. I will look into the rear seal, and the oil pan gasket. I will be doing the work myself, so I will have to drain my oil to work on this project? I screwed up my head so now my valves are really noisy to. Jeeps sometimes seem like more trouble that they're worth. I've put so much time into it that I can't quit now. Thanks again.
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Unread 03-27-2002, 02:23 PM   #9
Missin44
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Yes, you must drain oil. Oil pan will need to be removed to get to rear main in addition to clean matting surfaces of oil pan and engine block. Get a repair manual at your local auto parst store. Also make sure you get the oil pan gasket at the dealer, make sure it a one piece ruber gasket!

Good Luck
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Unread 03-27-2002, 09:26 PM   #10
89JEEPNYC
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Just did a rear main on my 4.2
35 bucks with the oil and a new drain plug!
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Unread 03-28-2002, 08:59 AM   #11
Brendan
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After I take off the oil pan, what do I do to get to the rear main seal? I read in my chilton manual about how to take off the oil pan, replace that gasket, but it didn't say anything about the rear main seal. Thanks for your help.
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Unread 03-28-2002, 09:05 AM   #12
Missin44
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Look up rear main seal in manual. It should be there. I don't know for sure since I have a Hayes manual. Anyway the eseal is in two pieces, 1/2 in oil pan, 1/2 in block. Oil pan is easy since its off. You'll need a punch to drive the top 1/2 of seal out of and around the crank, onece its sticking out a little some needle nose will finish the job. Be very cafeful with the punch, you don't want to damage the crank. Matter fact I used a brass punch for that very reason.
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Unread 03-28-2002, 09:07 AM   #13
Missin44
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Sorry, seal not in oil pan, but a crankshaft cap that needs to be removed. botton 1/2 inside the cap.

sorry, posted before i reviewed. BTW, you will need to retouque those cap bolts.
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Unread 03-28-2002, 08:19 PM   #14
4wheeler4CJ
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Hey, Oldjeepguy, I had a sending unit blow like that 2 months ago. Sucks, doesn't it?

The rear main seal doesn't require you to drop the tranny. The entire rear main seal should be replaced, not just the bottom half in the bearing cap.

Be careful slipping the upper half of the seal in the groove, if you accidentally "shave off" some rubber on the metal edges, buy another seal, dont try to reuse it, it will leak, and you'll kick yourself in the A**, LOL.
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Unread 03-29-2002, 05:04 PM   #15
johny1i
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I have the same rear main seal problem, but I have been putting it off because it doesn't leak enough to puddle on the ground, just gets my transmission wet. For you guys who have done it recently--after disconnecting the exhaust at the manifold, is there enough play in the exhaust system to swing the pipe out of the way. My exhaust is so rusty that I don't know if I would be able to get it apart beyond the manifold connection without cutting it in half! If swinging the pipe away works, then you just jack up the engine a few inches to get the pan off, right? Thanks a lot--
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