i have a lift with shackles, can I put a 1" body lift as well?
i just bought a yj and it's got shackles lifting it, i think it's an inch. I was wondering if it'd be cool to put a 1" body lift as well... Would i have to do any additional mods, or can I just throw the 1" body lift on with no problem?
You won't need longer brake lines for just 1"....... but you will have to move the fan shroud down an inch. Some people do 1" BL and 1" MML at the same time to prevent that. 'Sup to you. If all you are looking for is 1 extra inch of clearance, consider swapping on some TJ style flares instead.
94 YJ w/ stuff. All the work/money I put into it, and the comment I get most is my $20 mod: "Hand throttle?!? That's awesome."
Originally Posted by dmcanally
You know you drive a YJ when it is no longer getting older, but slowly becoming brand new part by part.
You'll be fine.
You may, or may not, have to move your fan shroud.
I'm running a 1" Daystar BL and never moved mine.
__________________ 1992 YJ -2.5 Old Man Emu lift, RC 1-1/4" Boom greasable shackles, JKS Discos, 1" Daystar BL, 33x12.5x15 BFG AT KO's mounted on 15x8 Cragar soft 8's, flush mounted tailights, SJFab front bumper, TKH Fab swingout tire carrier welded to a Dirtworx rear bumper, Tuffy stereo console, RC SS Extended brake lines, Home brew plate relocation bracket, Magnaflow Cat, Dynomax Cat back, No track bars front or rear 1997 XJ- 4.5 RC coils + extra OEM spring isolator(6.5" actual front), OME medium duty springs+OME extra leaf + Teraflex 1.5 shackles (6.5" actual in rear), OME Long travel shocks, OME SS, IRO Adj TB, IRO Adj LCA'S, IRO Adj Uppers, RC Control arm drop brackets, JKS Quicker Discos, SYE / XJ shaft, 33x12.5x15 BFG AT KO's on 15x8 Cragar soft 8's, RC SS extended Brake lines, Hella 500's 1996 ZJ - RE 2 inch BB w/shocks (rides like crap), OME SS, 31x10.5x15 General Grabber AT2's - SOLD
If you are going to do the 1" BL, I would suggest the Daystar 1" body bushings. They are actual body bushings, just 1" taller. This will replace you original body bushings, instead of using them and a normal 1" body lift. If your regular bushings are like any of ours, they NEED replacing. Not more extra work, because, you can remove them when you jack the body up. Wished I did that for mine instead of getting new bushings AND a 1" body lift, oh, well, live and learn.
While doing a 1" BL can be fairly simple it can quickly turn into a nightmare.
Search: rusty body bolts.
If your body bolts are rusty then it will turn a simple 1 day project, in to the job from hell. You will wish you had just bought a new 2-4" lift kit instead.
I found out the hard way attempting to remove body bolts from a rusty car years ago.
All I'm saying is take a look at the bottom of your jeep before you order a kit. Not a bad idea to try a wrench on one or two.
Below is a "cut & paste" copy of a reply I've made in a few posts, concerning the body lift installation you're considering.
Regardless of whether you are installing a body lift, or just changing out the cruddy stock mounts that are broken, here is something that may help. It's something I've learned over the years, the hard way, naturally.
I've installed a half dozen or so body lifts on YJ's & TJ's. I found a simple little trick using the PB Blaster that will save a lot of time & aggravation. Spraying just the heads of the bolts won't help. If you look at the 11 body mounts, there is one under the radiator support and then 10 (5 along each side) on the frame rails, starting behind the front wheels. The forward-most mounts can be sprayed near the threads by removing a plastic shield & spraying the nut area. Moving rearward, the next three body bolt nuts are in-accessible, under the floorboards. Inside the Jeep, locate the area of the floor right above each body mount & drill a tiny hole in the floor just big enough to get the spray can straw in, and spray generously. Lastly, the ones in the rear corners of the tub can be accessed by removing the plastic shield under the body's rear corner. Look above the mount and you'll see that the body nut area is boxed in with sheet metal. Again, drill a tiny hole & spray liberally.
Do this daily for about a week prior to the body lift install, and things will go much smoother! The holes can be filled with just a small bit of RTV sealer later.
I learned this the hard way, after breaking several body bolts in my '91 YJ.
If you have any reservations about drilling small holes in your floor, I'll show how big of a hole you'll need to dig out the body nut after the bolt breaks!
thanks for the reply guys. im gonna get on that pretty soon. think im gonna first herculine the interior and bondo/paint (ie. body work) before i get into the lift. easy stuff first. baby steps, y'know...
Sounds like a plan to me. I am doing all my rust repairs before I get too involved in major lifts.
A side note, since you are stock right now, I would avoid getting a Motor mount lift at the same time as the body lift. It really is not needed and Brown Dog himself (a motor mount lift designer) even stated to avoid it if you do not have a lift kit installed.
Congenital Heart Disease is a reality for me, BOTH of my children have it. Please read up and become aware for future generations
Lydia Ann-Acquired 08/05/05 Open Heart surgery 08/10/05
Jacob Patrick-Acquired 01/17/08 Open Heart surgery 02/15/08