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-   -   Hydroboost guys, I need some help (http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/hydroboost-guys-i-need-some-help-1505434/)

USMCBuckWild 04-07-2013 09:07 AM

Hydroboost guys, I need some help
 
I am prepping everything I need to do the Hydroboost swap into my Jeep. I already procured the hydroboost, mount, pedal and bracket, master cylinder, H.O. Pump, lines and remote reservoir. I also grabbed the proportioning valve, but now realized it might not work. I have an 8.8 with discs in the rear and the prop valve I grabbed is for disc/drum combo. It has 2 very different sized brake lines.

So, out of curiousity; what did you guys run for a prop valve? I want to do it riht the first time and not have to take the system apart again in the future. I know i can et an aftermarket prop valve, but I am looking to keep it simple.

Any suggestions?

phil1330 04-07-2013 09:43 AM

Can you not just change the fitting that goes into the valve and reflare that brake line?

jsawduste 04-07-2013 09:45 AM

Suimmit and Jegs both sell them.
Mine is an Allstar from Summit. Turn the knob and set the F/R pressures to your liking.

USMCBuckWild 04-07-2013 09:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jsawduste (Post 15259979)
Suimmit and Jegs both sell them.
Mine is an Allstar from Summit. Turn the knob and set the F/R pressures to your liking.

Any issues with the bias? How much adjustment did you have to do?

USMCBuckWild 04-07-2013 10:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by phil1330 (Post 15259965)
Can you not just change the fitting that goes into the valve and reflare that brake line?

If it was that simple it wouldn't be an issue. The prop valve was designed for disc fron drum rear. The drums use less fluid with higher pressure to actuate the brake cylinder. The pistons in the calipers require more fluid with lower pressures. So even if i changed out the brake line size, the prop valve was setup to move a certain amount of fluid, so the rear brakes would in turn get fluid differntly than needed and may not work correctly.

Kind of the same idea when people swap in an 8.8 with discs and they rmo e the o-ring from the stock Jeep prop valve.

phil1330 04-07-2013 10:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by USMCBuckWild (Post 15260051)
If it was that simple it wouldn't be an issue. The prop valve was designed for disc fron drum rear. The drums use less fluid with higher pressure to actuate the brake cylinder. The pistons in the calipers require more fluid with lower pressures. So even if i changed out the brake line size, the prop valve was setup to move a certain amount of fluid, so the rear brakes would in turn get fluid differntly than needed and may not work correctly.

Kind of the same idea when people swap in an 8.8 with discs and they rmo e the o-ring from the stock Jeep prop valve.

Gotcha, that's why that was kinda of question Cuz I was unsure if that would even work. I know now.thanks

jsawduste 04-07-2013 10:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by USMCBuckWild (Post 15260037)
Any issues with the bias? How much adjustment did you have to do?

No problems with the bias at all.

In fact I`ve gone from 1/2 ford (HP44) calipers to full 1 ton dual piston calipers......Dodger rotors and 1 ton caliper brackets...........and was able to readjust with plenty of additional adjustment available.

3 thoughts since you want to do it once and do it right.

The MC you want should have a 1 1/4 - 1 5/16ths bore. This allow the MC to push enough fluid for any application you might have/want.

If your going to run a ram you might consider talking to Vanco or Blaine and having the MC ported. I tried unported and was not happy with the low RPM response. Even a bigger pump or driving the pump faster would not of helped. You can only pass so much fluid through the MC at a time. Excess pressure means heat.

You want to run a cooler. Consider this a must have. The pump will be adding a lot of heat to the fluid and you will want to have a means of removing it.

USMCBuckWild 04-07-2013 10:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jsawduste (Post 15260095)
No problems with the bias at all.

In fact I`ve gone from 1/2 ford (HP44) calipers to full 1 ton dual piston calipers......Dodger rotors and 1 ton caliper brackets...........and was able to readjust with plenty of additional adjustment available.

3 thoughts since you want to do it once and do it right.

The MC you want should have a 1 1/4 - 1 5/16ths bore. This allow the MC to push enough fluid for any application you might have/want.

If your going to run a ram you might consider talking to Vanco or Blaine and having the MC ported. I tried unported and was not happy with the low RPM response. Even a bigger pump or driving the pump faster would not of helped. You can only pass so much fluid through the MC at a time. Excess pressure means heat.

You want to run a cooler. Consider this a must have. The pump will be adding a lot of heat to the fluid and you will want to have a means of removing it.

I initially grabbed an 08 Chevy 6.0 hydroboost, but was told this was not optimal. Went back and picked up a 91 Astrovan system. Supposedly has a larger port than the 08. Its a 1 5/16 from what I understand.

Not running a ram. Just hydro boost with a steering box. I actually picked up one of the factory HO pumps (a 185 pump, I checked the vane plate) so it should exceed the requirements of just the hydroboost and steering.

I already put a large trans cooler in as my power ateering cooler. Its mounted low in front of and seperate of the radiator. Its spaced about 3/4" awayfrom the radiator so as to not sink heat from the radiator. I gotthe high pressure lines from the 08, which are almost perfect for length, and better hoses than the Astrovan had.

I am pretty confident in the setup, the only shortfall I could see was the prop valve. I like the idea of the adjustable one, and will probably go in that direction.

jsawduste 04-07-2013 02:48 PM

Sounds like a good plan.


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