[swedishdwarf]

It looks like the easiest and cleanest possible way to do a hummer style intake on a YJ is going to be on the driver's side. I can live with that.

We're going to reuse the stock air box with a few modifications. First we need to seal it up, so pull out the air box and drill out the rivets that hold the little rectangular plastic plate on the side.



Put a fat bead of silicone sealant on it.



Then reattach it with some wood screws. For some reason I didn't take a picture of that. Oh, well.

Next we're going to choose something to plug the original intake hole with. I made the choice of a new generation. Here's a technique I found when reading about penny stoves that yields a nice straight cut. Using a new razor blade and a one inch spacer, slowly turn the can to score a line all the way around. We're not cutting the can all the way through. It doesn't even have to be very deep.



Then, take a pair of scissors and cut the can in half about an inch above the scored line. Make sure you don't crease the lower part of the can as that's the part we'll be using. Next, use your scissors to cut strips about 3/8" wide down to the scored line. These will break right off as soon as you bend them back and forth a few times.









Clean up the old intake hole and silicone your custom-made, aircraft-grade aluminum delete plate in there. Make sure to seal the little rectangular holes at the top and bottom of the big hole.

[swedishdwarf]

And here it is, along with the lost shot of the now-sealed side plate.



There's also a small drain hole in the bottom that has to be sealed. I cleaned it out with a Q-tip and ran a siliconed screw into it, but just silicone or just a screw would probably be fine.

Next, whip out your 3" hole saw and cut a hole on the opposite end of the air box.



There's a cast rib that has to be ground down before you can rivet your new intake port on there. I used a 3" throttle body adapter for a Toyota (that somehow I didn't get a picture of) but any 3" throttle body adapter will work. I used 3" intake parts because this system was built around a Donaldson pre-cleaner I wanted to use and that has a 3" collar. In fact this project would have been quite a bit easier with 2-1/2" stuff.

Anyhow, enough foreplay. It's time to start doing real damage. Use your trusty 3" hole saw and pop a hole directly above the fuse panel. Placement isn't super critical-- there's actually quite a bit of room in there-- just make sure it's more or less directly above the fuse panel, because we're stealing that hole. Masking tape helps make a cleaner hole.



Clean up the hole with some emery cloth and keep sanding until your 3" intake pipe fits in there.



Everything I used except the pre-cleaner came from the intake isle at Pep Boys, so I imagine any big box auto parts store will have something that'll work. Anyway, unbolt the fuse block connector from under the hood, then unbolt the fuse block from under the dash. Setting both halves aside, whip out your die grinder and open up the fuse block hole until your 3" pipe fits in there. Connect the pipes (I actually used a single 6" pipe and cut it in half. I should have bought two) under the dash with a 90 degree elbow. It should look something like this, in the lower left corner:



"But wait!" you may be saying, "where will my fuse box go?!" We're going to move it down about five inches, cutting a 2-3/4" square hole in the firewall and reusing the original mounting bolts with some 1/4"x20 nuts and lock washers.



"But wait!" you may say again, "where will my PCM go?" The PCM (on my 95, anyway) has it's own harness that's like three feet long. I was able to swing it all the way over to the opposite fender and zip tie it to the existing harness for my winch and electric fan. You know, where the jack used to be.

This is the point in the undertaking where I noticed that my vision for this project had a little blind spot. I had not noticed that the proportioning valve and our new throttle body adapter would violate the laws of physics by simultaneously existing in the same place and time. To solve this problem I had to move the air box bracket forward about four inches, to where it almost touches the headlight plug. But then, just run the hoses and there we are.



So there we are, one (backwards) Hummer style intake for a YJ. I'm not quite happy with the angle of it and both pipes turned out a little short, but those problems can be easily fixed someday when the parts stores are open. The more traditional mushroom type pre-cleaner would probably look more streamlined. Also, I'm not quite sold that those universal hoses seal right. Once I'm done making changes it'll get custom hoses.

[sprowley]

Interesting, but its really hard to tell exactly what you're doing in the steps because the images are so blurry.

[BomberJeep]

great write up

[swedishdwarf]

Originally Posted by sprowley

Interesting, but its really hard to tell exactly what you're doing in the steps because the images are so blurry.

They're about twice as big as they need to be. I've been trying to resize them for about an hour and a half, but now it's past my bedtime so I'll worry about it tomorrow. If anybody knows how to resize these pics could you let me know?

To view them in the correct size, hold down the 'ctrl' key and turn your scroll wheel down to zoom out.

[fratis]

so what happens when you want to put the windshield down when wheeling?

[tominox]

Originally Posted by swedishdwarf

They're about twice as big as they need to be. I've been trying to resize them for about an hour and a half, but now it's past my bedtime so I'll worry about it tomorrow. If anybody knows how to resize these pics could you let me know?

To view them in the correct size, hold down the 'ctrl' key and turn your scroll wheel down to zoom out.

You can just open the pictures in microsoft paint, hit Ctrl-A to select all, then Ctrl-W and change the percentages in the height and width to 50 - 50. I use Irfanview, the best image viewer in my opinion. On that one you can do batch resizing, which is handy if you have lots of pictures you need resized. Nice mod btw...have thought of doing something similar, because I don't quite like the snorkel look.

[Matt_vs_YJ]

Nice.

Here's some better looking hoods that are a little cheaper also. http://store.airflo.com/inlet-hoods.html

I was planning on doing something like this but I never saw an easy was to do it... of course, I was looking at the passenger side.

[xeroid81]

Dude,where did you have your zoom set at? I'm gonna have to take a couple of aspirins. Got a headache trying to focus on the image. Back it out a bit so we can see what it is you're doing. I'm sure it looked ok in the view finder,but that's not how it translates on screen. Just a reminder, no offense meant. I know you meant well.

[MLJeeper]

Originally Posted by fratis

so what happens when you want to put the windshield down when wheeling?

I dont know to many people that do this. The trails i ride on, you would get knocked the **** out or cut up from the limbs and bushes if you rode with the window down. Also, most folks dont have a true A pillar on their cage and that window frame is in fact part of the cage system. I get beat up enough anyway with just the doors off.

[sticksnstonesru]

Holy smokes....it's like game after game of Where's Waldo.

[Jeepsr4me19]

Post those pics on Photo bucket then link to them. They always come out the right size then. like this.

[timatoe]

Nice, and you could become a millionare with you're "custom-made, aircraft-grade aluminum delete plate".

[JFranko]

I like the way this came out, I wish i would of thought of this before i bought a K&N

[swedishdwarf]

Originally Posted by fratis

so what happens when you want to put the windshield down when wheeling?

You choose your priorities. You can drop the windshield by taking the pre-cleaner off and removing the hose from the air box, but then you don't have any of the advantages of doing the mod in the first place.