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NHfireLJ 08-25-2011 01:52 PM

Hummer intake YJ style
 
1 Attachment(s)
Another hummer intake how to thread..

First I reviewed the threads of those that came before me...

TJ http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/tj...81/index5.html

YJ http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/h...y-pics-615089/ This is a good starting point, Biggest drawback is he lowered his main fuse box to route the intake tube...I didn't like that idea...

here is a teaser of the finished product.......

NHfireLJ 08-25-2011 02:01 PM

Oh yeah. I'm planning on lowering the cap anothe 1.5-2 " EDIT: already done in first pic.

Parts list..

Finding a Hummer H1 cap is hard and expensive..Over $80.
i used a M35 Cap for $22. http://www.tnjmurray.com/m35.cfm

(2) 3" dia x 30" flex intake tubes from auto zone

1 intake tube flange from autozone,

3.5" hose clamps...

4" plumbing flange (crapper flange):2thumbsup:

stainless 1/4 x 2 screws and T- nuts from Lowes

Tools

4" hole saw
3" hole saw
screwdriver
sealant/ RTV

grandboost98 08-25-2011 02:03 PM

come on!! stop teasing!:wolverine:

NHfireLJ 08-25-2011 02:07 PM

The cowl hole location is sort of random. I looked at the original thread and then picked a spot...drill and got lucky!!! There is alot of space!!!

Then thru the firewall.

I didn't like the idea of lowering my fuse box, so Once you remove the computer (temporarily out of the way) There is a crap load of space below it and behind the washer fluid reservoir...

I lowere the washer tank about 2-3 inches, by relocating the bracket. Make sure you don't go too far and kink the fluid hose to the wipers. The coolant tank can stay where it is...

I then drilled my 3" hole thru the firewall from the eng compartment side. This will be just below the fuse panel...It sucked drilling

NHfireLJ 08-25-2011 02:15 PM

3 Attachment(s)
The flange...

The M35 hood fits perfectly on a 4" plumbing flange...

These are not my pics, but did the same idea. I cut 2 sides off my flange,

Instead of using anchor nuts on top of the cowl, I used a heat gun softened the flange and banged in some "T" nuts. Because the YJ cowl doesn't come out, you need either a buddy to hold the nuts or someway to keep the nuts inplace, this way I could just run the screws down thru the cowl....

BTW, insert the flange upside down on the cowl to mark your holes for the screws...Make sure it is level and get the measurement for the spacers seen below...5/8" on mine

NHfireLJ 08-25-2011 02:21 PM

Once the flange is mounted and sealed with RTV, Run one length of intake tubing up into the flange, and secure with small screws that are counter sunk into the plastic (that way the cap can slide down over them)

I ran another bead of RTV around the tube/flange joint..

Then run the tubing thru the firewall.

This stuff is expandable from 10" to 30" accordian style....Because you are running under and infront of the fuse box, leave plenty of extra tub inside the cab so you can get to your fuses. (this is the drawback to my install).

the tube can be compressed (shortened) when in use, and extended out of the way to reach fuses...

There should be about 8" or so coming thru the firewall into the eng compartment...

Seal the tube /firewall junction...More RTV...

NHfireLJ 08-25-2011 02:29 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Air box.

remove the airbox base...

Seal the intake like this..
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/h...y-pics-615089/

I used a plastic cap (instead of an aluminum can) and then filled with spray foam...

Then mount the intake tube 3" flange to the side of the airbox..Seal and connect the intake tube, then reinstall.

NHfireLJ 08-25-2011 02:33 PM

1 Attachment(s)
On the above picture, The flange running into the side of the airbox is angle UP by 1/2 -3/4 inch with spacers on the bottom, bacause the tube exits into the fender well.

I also used a BFH and gave the fender well a love tap down, to make more room...

After the airbox is reinstalled, connect the 2 lengths of intake tubing together...

NHfireLJ 08-25-2011 02:35 PM

2 Attachment(s)
Then Remount the computer...you can either run it along the firewall to the otherside if you have enough wire, or hang it from the grill support as I did...

Done....

I know, not alot of pics..I get going and forget, but most of the needed pics are in the other threads...

If you need a specific pic, let me know...

Good luck...

BTW, the second pic is before I cut the mushroom down to a lower height. Ist pic in the thread is the finished product

91BoD 08-25-2011 02:39 PM

I've always wondered, why not tap into the HVAC cowl vent instead? It would make a nice factory look with all the benifits of a cowl intake. Obviously I am missing something on why people don't do it. Not enough air flow?

NHfireLJ 08-25-2011 02:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 91BoD (Post 12077162)
I've always wondered, why not tap into the HVAC cowl vent instead? It would make a nice factory look with all the benifits of a cowl intake. Obviously I am missing something on why people don't do it. Not enough air flow?

Access and water intrusion would be my guess.

Also the snorkle/hummer intake are functional as well as none factory look...IE they look cool:2thumbsup:

NHfireLJ 08-25-2011 03:00 PM

2 Attachment(s)
A few more pics

EDIT: again, the intake has been lowered and looks much better since this pic..

Louie4 08-25-2011 03:57 PM

Looks pretty sweet. Have you put it to the test yet? Any deep water crossings coming up?

Tom95YJ 08-25-2011 04:05 PM

Looks good !

NHfireLJ 08-25-2011 05:20 PM

Thanks...No deep water crossings yet, Just finished yesterday...Still need to seal the distrubuter...


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