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Unread 07-07-2003, 06:14 PM   #1
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Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: rent free
Posts: 119
HT Removal

Hi Gang

Anyone have pictures of a home made top removal system?

Bear in mind I have no carport or garage so it will be free standing. Also the wife is 5'2 and no help what so ever.

I do hate you, it's a given!
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Unread 07-07-2003, 08:09 PM   #2
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Location: Michigan
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check out this link I did a version similar to his, very easy works great (especially with a high ceiling) Ill ty to get some pics. good luck. Oops I just realized you said free standing, well maybe you could mount it to a tree or something. Good luck again.
"Two roads diverged in a wood and I - I took the one less traveled by, and that has made all the difference. "
94 2.5L 5spd with some stuff

Last edited by gunsworth; 07-07-2003 at 08:12 PM..
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Unread 07-10-2003, 11:33 PM   #3
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1988 YJ Wrangler 
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Calgary, AB
Posts: 6,879
I designed a top-remover for free-standing systems which could be used in a condo or apartment type setting.

I haven't had a chance to build it yet - its on my list of things to do. Once I have the patent on my design, I will share it with everyone

Basically - you would need a grinder, chop-saw and welder to make it ... and of course some time
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Unread 07-12-2003, 05:14 PM   #4
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2002 TJ Wrangler 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Missoula, Montana
Posts: 421
Description but no pics

Sorry no pics, but I just built a free-standing place to store my hardtop. I'll try to describe it.

All it takes is 6 8-foot 2x4s, 5 8-foot 1x4s, 4 eye-screws, some steel straps, four tie-down straps, and a bunch of deck screws. Bought it all at Home Depot.

Basically it is a big arch that I drive under, hook up the tie-down straps and lift the top while tightening the tie-downs.

Each of the sides has two 2x4s connected inside and out by 4-foot 1x4s ( the 1/4x sandwich the 2x4). I have the bottom 1x4s about an inch above the bottom of the 2x4s so the ends of the 2x4s can sink just alittle into the ground to be more stable. At the top, the 1x4s are about 4 inches below the top of the 2x4s. I'll explain why in a minute. I then have a 1x4 screwed on diagonally to stiffen the structure. Sort of like this looking at it from the side:

| |..................| |
| | \ ...............| |
| |\ \..............| |
| |..\ \............| |
| |....\ \..........| |
| |......\ \........| |
| |........\ \......| |
| |..........\ \....| |
| |............\ \..| |
| |..............\ \| |
| |................\ | |

Then I have 2 2x4s set on end that rest on the upper 1x4s and are screwed to the 2x4s. These connect the two sides. I tied the bottom together at the rear with a 1x4. I used the short metal straps to tie the cross-piece 2x4s to the upright 2x4s to stabilize them. I then measured the width of the hardtop and screwed the eyebolts into the cross-piece 2x4s at the same width.

Now I remove all the bolts from the hardtop and back under the arch until the rear wheels just barely touch the 1x4 cross-tie at the bottom rear of the structure. I hang tie-downs from each eye-screw. I start at the front, threading the end of the tie-down over the roll-cage tie to the windshield on either side and hook them together in the middle (makes sort of a big cradle for the front of the hardtop since there isn't a good place to hook to). I lift the front of the hardtop just a little while tightening the tiedown so the front is suspended a couple inches about the windshield frame. Then I lift each back corner and hook a tie-down under the hardtop and to the ledge that bolts to the body while tightening the tie-down to suspend the hardtop. Then it is just a matter of lifting the hardtop front, back corner, back corner a foot or so at a time while tightening the tie-down straps until the hardtop is firmly against the 2x4 cross pieces at the top. Seems to be pretty stable in the wind doing this.

Putting the hardtop back on is just the reverse process. Easy and fast. Just be carefull releasing the tie-downs, as they drop FAST if you aren't paying attention.

Hope this helps!
02 TJ Sahara 4.0 5 spd, 3.73, Dana 44 rear, 2.5" lift w/ Bilstein shocks, 33x12.50
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Unread 07-12-2003, 08:14 PM   #5
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1994 YJ Wrangler 
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That design is sturdy and would work well, but it would take up alot of space. Even if you dissasemble it storage, it could only be done a few times until the wood strips out. If I was to build one I would make it on casters and design it like a big engine hoist. Frame it up with welded metal tubing and hinge it at certain intervals to it can fold for easy storage. Instead of moving the Jeep under the hoist, roll the hoist up to the Jeep and hoist away. You could even triangulate it with a solenoid for automatic lifting. Hmmm, can I borrow a welder
Blue '94 Wrangler, 2.5L: Under monsterization
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