HP44 and hi-steer FINALLY finished

admar2 · 01-04-2007, 04:23 PM

after much hand wringing, swearing, throwing of tools, and a few weeks time, finally got the HP44 I picked up, installed.

full width HP44 out of a 78-79 F250. 3/4ton axle, with 1/2 outers to get the 5x5.5 bolt pattern I need. 67inch WMS to WMS. rear is 65 3/8 WMS super88 with 2inch spacers on each side.

4.88's, lockrite, chromos, CTM's, warn hubs.

I used waggy springs up front to stretch it a bit. WB is now right at 105.

sportin my pimp-*** aluminum turbine wheels

It sat like this for a week at least, while I pondered what to do with the spring perches to get them in the right spot

my ghettolicious homemade spring plate. 3/8inch steel

oops, TR/draglink clearance problems, gotta use the rear holes in the arms.

first time building my own TR and draglink. took a couple tries to get it right. ruined a couple weld-in bungs by getting them WAYYY too hot welding them in.

finished results

still gotta re-do the upper shock mounts in the front, gonna go with some hoops of some sort. gotta get some LONNNNNGER shocks up there.

garage crawler shot

**ErikJordan** · 01-04-2007, 04:33 PM

looks nice, but i have to question your steering set up. i dont see why you would use the inverted y type steering when you have the knuckles for seperate tie rod and drag link.

admar2 · 01-04-2007, 04:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NAILER341

looks nice, but i have to question your steering set up. i dont see why you would use the inverted y type steering when you have the knuckles for seperate tie rod and drag link.

there is NO room on the arm to mount them seperately. I would have to either get a longer arm on that side, which will affect turning radius I'm afraid. Or if I would have used heims, which I didn't want to use, I could have mounted the draglink seperate.

what is wrong with running it the way it is?

any input is appreciated.

admar2 · 01-04-2007, 04:41 PM

I wanna run hydro assist in the near future too, so I'll have to figure out how to mount the ram with the TR that high.

one option I was considering is moving the TR down, OTK on the lower arm, and then running the DL directly to the arm on the passenger side.

**ErikJordan** · 01-04-2007, 04:55 PM

[QUOTE=admar2]

what is wrong with running it the way it is?

[QUOTE]

nothing is really wrong with it. i had a similar set up on my yj, and didnt like the way it felt on the road. there is a lot of roll on the tie rod, which gives it a mushy feel, and is downright scary in high winds.

did you have alot of trouble bending your tie rod before this swap?

http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Steering/Steering_Research/steeringresearch.htm

this was my steering design for a bit.

this is what i have now:

the behavior is night and day on the street and on the trail.

i realize this is not apples to apples comparing my dana 30 to your 44, but the steering theories are the same.

admar2 · 01-04-2007, 05:02 PM

well, its not really much of a street vehicle anymore. I will be trailering it just about everywhere.

I ran a similar setup on my old d30, and I never noticed any sketchy behavior. then again, maybe I was just used to it. LOL.

this was the old setup.

myjeepsux420 · 01-04-2007, 05:05 PM

I have a question. Why do you have a greese zerk bolt in the middle shackle bolt? I was it in the pickture on the pass. side.

admar2 · 01-04-2007, 05:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by myjeepsux420

I have a question. Why do you have a greese zerk bolt in the middle shackle bolt? I was it in the pickture on the pass. side.

all the stuff in the pictures and thats the thing ya want to nitpick. LOL

its there because thats where I stuck it. LOL.

no reason other than that really.

I take that back. Actually I didn't want that little steel bushing to squeak.

E_ROCK · 01-04-2007, 05:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by admar2

I wanna run hydro assist in the near future too, so I'll have to figure out how to mount the ram with the TR that high.

one option I was considering is moving the TR down, OTK on the lower arm, and then running the DL directly to the arm on the passenger side.

Why would you move the tie rod lower, when you can just mount the ram high in line with the tie rod? I will be doing this soon and I am currently builiding a axle truss to mount the ram to.

E_ROCK · 01-04-2007, 05:14 PM

Also, did you mill the knuckles with some angle? it looks like you purchased arms without any angle to them.

**TellyDSP** · 01-04-2007, 05:15 PM

If you're tossing ideas to extend the front shocks, might look into the F250 towers for a cheap fix.

I almost jumped into the HP44 build, but I dont have the time, space, or resources right now. I would however, appreciate a write-up for a future project.

admar2 · 01-04-2007, 05:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TellyDSP

If you're tossing ideas to extend the front shocks, might look into the F250 towers for a cheap fix.

I almost jumped into the HP44 build, but I dont have the time, space, or resources right now. I would however, appreciate a write-up for a future project.

dude, the writeup for how MY install went would be a NIGHTMARE!

admar2 · 01-04-2007, 05:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by E_ROCK

Why would you move the tie rod lower, when you can just mount the ram high in line with the tie rod? I will be doing this soon and I am currently builiding a axle truss to mount the ram to.

yeah, building something beefy to get the ram up that high is my only concern.

knuckles came milled straight from dedenbear. arms are flat AFAIK. is this wrong?

myjeepsux420 · 01-04-2007, 05:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by admar2

all the stuff in the pictures and thats the thing ya want to nitpick. LOL

its there because thats where I stuck it. LOL.

no reason other than that really.

I take that back. Actually I didn't want that little steel bushing to squeak.

Yep, I couldn't help myself.

E_ROCK · 01-04-2007, 05:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by admar2

yeah, building something beefy to get the ram up that high is my only concern.

knuckles came milled straight from dedenbear. arms are flat AFAIK. is this wrong?

I wouldn't say it is wrong, some arms have between 7 and 10 degree built into the arm to avoid some the steering binding that can occur during suspension travel. Or you can mill the knuckle with the corrected angle and buy a straight arm. On a YJ it really isn't a huge deal because we don't get as much flex out of our suspensions to bind the TRE/heims anyway.

01-04-2007, 05:05 PM	#7
myjeepsux420 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Colorado Springs Posts: 432 Profile Gallery Classifieds My Jeeps	I have a question. Why do you have a greese zerk bolt in the middle shackle bolt? I was it in the pickture on the pass. side. __________________ 1995 YJ Stroked 4.5L I-6 Headders, high flow cat. and exhaust Big Bore Throttle Body, Cold Air intake Jet Chip Stage 2 plus thermostat 3 1/2 inch lift with 33x12.50 tires Posi Lock front diff and Ford 8.8

01-04-2007, 04:41 PM	#4
admar2 Registered User Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Nashvegas, TN Posts: 619 Profile Gallery Classifieds My Jeeps	I wanna run hydro assist in the near future too, so I'll have to figure out how to mount the ram with the TR that high. one option I was considering is moving the TR down, OTK on the lower arm, and then running the DL directly to the arm on the passenger side.

01-04-2007, 05:02 PM	#6
admar2 Registered User Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Nashvegas, TN Posts: 619 Profile Gallery Classifieds My Jeeps	well, its not really much of a street vehicle anymore. I will be trailering it just about everywhere. I ran a similar setup on my old d30, and I never noticed any sketchy behavior. then again, maybe I was just used to it. LOL. this was the old setup.